Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.
 

RE: [Authentic_SCA] input on travel chest ideas

Expand Messages
  • Laurie Cavanaugh
    I m a 14thC maven, and I might buy one myself. :-) I would suggest painting the galvanized handles black to make them less obtrusive, but staining is optional.
    Message 1 of 16 , Feb 3, 2005
      I'm a 14thC maven, and I might buy one myself. :-) I would suggest painting
      the galvanized handles black to make them less obtrusive, but staining is
      optional. Lots of medieval chests were painted. This box at only 7 7/8
      inches high will be too short for you to sit on, but may be just right for
      your boys if they are still small. Great size for carrying, though.

      I went through the same thing for a number of years with building or buying
      boxes too big to reasonably carry. Oddly enough, the longest-in-use piece
      of gear I own is a round-top chest I bought at the 20-year celebration.
      Small enough to carry, large enough to be useful, and I don't set things on
      the curved top, which means it's available when I want to sit on it. :-)
      The brass handles are modern, but I love this box and still use it anyway.

      Morgan Athenry
      --- Laurie Cavanaugh
      --- lscavanaugh@...
    • Gary Halstead
      As someone pointed out, this might be little low to sit on. Two pieces of advice: definitely give it a coat of paint or varnish (I d go for paint,
      Message 2 of 16 , Feb 3, 2005
        As someone pointed out, this might be little low to sit on. Two pieces
        of advice: definitely give it a coat of paint or varnish (I'd go for
        paint, personally) to seal it - it will last much longer that way.
        Also, get a couple of pieces of scrap wood to keep it off the ground
        while you're camping; prolonged dampness will kill most interior plywood.

        Ranulf,
        Wood Geek

        Angharad ver' Reynulf wrote:
        >
        > I'm trying to work on getting my gear packed into more
        > appropriate containers for taking to and from events,
        > preferably that can also double as seating or small
        > tables.
        >
        > I have absolutely no woodworking skills, no tools and
        > with working on my wedding for this year, honestly, no
        > time, although I've been looking at some of the online
        > articles on chests and beds and *dreaming.*
        >
        > But the stuff I'm using I cannot lift anymore-which
        > causes problems and it's larger: 26" by 18" by 16" at
        > a rough guess.
        >
        > I do know how to stain, paint and can assemble
        > kits/models, so would this be a good compromise for
        > say 3-5 years for someone who does 14th Cen. Welsh
        > with anywhere from 0-3 boys at an event?
        >
        > http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=12&langId=-1&catalogId=10101&productId=33874
        >
        > Kartotek box with Lid, $19.99
        > product description & measurements
        > Main part: Birch plywood
        > Handle: Steel, Galvanized
        >
        > Length: 22 1/2 "
        > Width: 12 5/8 "
        > Height: 11 5/8 "
        >
        > Length: 57 cm
        > Width: 32 cm
        > Height: 29.5 cm
        >
        >
        > Thank you,
        >
        > Angharat verch Reynulf
        > An Tir
      • Marion McNealy
        Another thought, make yourself cloth bags to carry your gear and get stools and or chairs for sitting on. This last summer, I made some very simple cloth bags
        Message 3 of 16 , Feb 3, 2005
          Another thought, make yourself cloth bags to carry your gear and get stools and or chairs for sitting on.

          This last summer, I made some very simple cloth bags from a length of linen fabric to carry my bedding and clothing in. They have handles and ties on the sides and the middle and are very light to carry.

          For seating, those three legged folding artist stools are period for 16th century, and bench seating is also period for a large range of time.

          -Marion








          Angharad ver' Reynulf wrote:
          >
          > I'm trying to work on getting my gear packed into more
          > appropriate containers for taking to and from events,
          > preferably that can also double as seating or small
          > tables.





          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Angharad ver' Reynulf
          Thank you all for your quick input. I have offers from two local friends to help assemble these and assist in any necessary adjustments. (see below) In regards
          Message 4 of 16 , Feb 3, 2005
            Thank you all for your quick input.

            I have offers from two local friends to help assemble
            these and assist in any necessary adjustments. (see
            below)

            In regards to keeping scrap wood to keep the boxes off
            of the ground, would it be feasible to add feet to the
            bases of the boxes? With their help, I should be able
            to get basic wood cut to add maybe a 2" foot?
            (something like a 2 x 2 running down the width so that
            the grain is sideways? not certain what was meant by
            that) That would raise the boxes off of the ground,
            and with the possible stacking, also allow the
            poles/slats to be run underneath them while packing
            the van.

            My lower leg length from heel to inner knee bend is
            just under 16". So it would also almost lift it to a
            comfortable height for me, the addition of a nicely
            worked cushion should do it, I think.

            Angharat




            __________________________________
            Do you Yahoo!?
            Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today!
            http://my.yahoo.com
          • wodeford
            ... You might want to think about removable feet. I have a chest with feet and I find that trying to shove it in and out of the ridged bedliner in my pick-up
            Message 5 of 16 , Feb 3, 2005
              --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Angharad ver' Reynulf
              <dragonwolfcat@y...> wrote:

              > In regards to keeping scrap wood to keep the boxes off
              > of the ground, would it be feasible to add feet to the
              > bases of the boxes? With their help, I should be able
              > to get basic wood cut to add maybe a 2" foot?
              > (something like a 2 x 2 running down the width so that
              > the grain is sideways? not certain what was meant by
              > that) That would raise the boxes off of the ground,
              > and with the possible stacking, also allow the
              > poles/slats to be run underneath them while packing
              > the van.
              You might want to think about removable feet. I have a chest with feet
              and I find that trying to shove it in and out of the ridged bedliner
              in my pick-up is a pain.. For my flat bottomed kitchen box, I keep a
              few pieces of 2"x"4 scraps around, which is usually enough to raise
              them off the ground when needed. When it's time to shove things back
              in the truck, the flat bottomed box slides right in again, the scrap
              wood pieces are small enough to fit in odd corners, and you haven't
              added any weight to your box.

              Since you're planning on your boxes doubling as seating, you might try
              this. Cut two pieces of 2"x4" the width of your box plus 8 inches.
              Cut four pieces 4 inches long. Drill each 4" piece for a bolt in the
              center. Measure 4" from each end of the long pieces and drill the
              centers of each 4" square on these as well. Sandwich the long pieces
              between two 4" pieces at each end and bolt them together. You should
              end up with something that looks like a squat H. If you measure
              correctly, you should be able to sit your box on the long slats and
              the 4" squares on the top of each end will keep it from shifting
              around when someone sits on it. This will add 4" of height to your
              box, though you could cut and add 4" squares to the bottom of the H if
              you wanted more height. And again, once you want to pick up your box
              to move it, the legs come off and aren't adding weight to your burden.

              Hope this makes sense.

              Jehanne

              Does this make any sense?
              >
              > My lower leg length from heel to inner knee bend is
              > just under 16". So it would also almost lift it to a
              > comfortable height for me, the addition of a nicely
              > worked cushion should do it, I think.
              >
              > Angharat
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > __________________________________
              > Do you Yahoo!?
              > Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today!
              > http://my.yahoo.com
            • Mary Taran
              ... I don t know if you noticed, but there are two sizes--the other one is 12 high. Still a little short, but better. Mary Taran -- No virus found in this
              Message 6 of 16 , Feb 3, 2005
                At 09:35 AM 2/3/2005, you wrote:


                >I'm a 14thC maven, and I might buy one myself. :-) I would suggest painting
                >the galvanized handles black to make them less obtrusive, but staining is
                >optional. Lots of medieval chests were painted. This box at only 7 7/8
                >inches high will be too short for you to sit on, but may be just right for
                >your boys if they are still small. Great size for carrying, though.
                >
                >I went through the same thing for a number of years with building or buying
                >boxes too big to reasonably carry. Oddly enough, the longest-in-use piece
                >of gear I own is a round-top chest I bought at the 20-year celebration.
                >Small enough to carry, large enough to be useful, and I don't set things on
                >the curved top, which means it's available when I want to sit on it. :-)
                >The brass handles are modern, but I love this box and still use it anyway.
                >
                >Morgan Athenry
                >--- Laurie Cavanaugh
                >--- lscavanaugh@...

                I don't know if you noticed, but there are two sizes--the other one is 12"
                high. Still a little short, but better.

                Mary Taran


                --
                No virus found in this outgoing message.
                Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
                Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.4 - Release Date: 2/1/2005
              • DawnsHebog@aol.com
                In a message dated 2/3/05 9:14:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com writes: I do know how to stain, paint and can assemble kits/models, so
                Message 7 of 16 , Feb 4, 2005
                  In a message dated 2/3/05 9:14:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
                  dragonwolfcat@... writes:
                  I do know how to stain, paint and can assemble
                  kits/models, so would this be a good compromise for
                  say 3-5 years for someone who does 14th Cen. Welsh
                  with anywhere from 0-3 boys at an event?
                  I can't beat their mass production prices, and they look very sturdy. I say
                  try one of theirs, and see how it goes for a season. You might even make sure
                  it gets its fair share of abuse by dropping, exposing to sun, and an hour of
                  good rain soaking.
                  Just to try it out, and you'll only lose twenty bucks on it.
                  I know what my stuff will do, but I do all my work by hand, and charge for it.

                  H


                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • wodeford
                  ... I picked one up at the local IKEA yesterday and will probably assemble it tomorrow. I thought it looked OK and certainly sturdy enough. Paint or swapping
                  Message 8 of 16 , Feb 4, 2005
                    --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Angharad ver' Reynulf
                    <dragonwolfcat@y...> wrote:

                    > Kartotek box with Lid, $19.99

                    I picked one up at the local IKEA yesterday and will probably assemble
                    it tomorrow. I thought it looked OK and certainly sturdy enough. Paint
                    or swapping out the hardware will hide the shiny galvanized bits.

                    Don't know if it's obvious from the catalog listing, but the lid is
                    not attached to the body of the box in any way. You'd have to install
                    your own hinges if you want a hinged top.

                    Jehanne
                  • Angharad ver' Reynulf
                    Thank you for the update Jehanne! I have to travel a bit to IKEA, so I was definitely hoping to get as much info as possible before hand. Angharat
                    Message 9 of 16 , Feb 4, 2005
                      Thank you for the update Jehanne!

                      I have to travel a bit to IKEA, so I was definitely
                      hoping to get as much info as possible before hand.

                      Angharat


                      __________________________________________________
                      Do You Yahoo!?
                      Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
                      http://mail.yahoo.com
                    • wodeford
                      ... You re welcome. I just peeled off the plastic and laid out the parts for assembly and wanted to let you know that the handles are already attached to the
                      Message 10 of 16 , Feb 5, 2005
                        --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Angharad ver' Reynulf
                        <dragonwolfcat@y...> wrote:
                        > Thank you for the update Jehanne!

                        You're welcome. I just peeled off the plastic and laid out the parts
                        for assembly and wanted to let you know that the handles are already
                        attached to the sides - with rivets. If you decide you want to swap
                        out the hardware, you'll have to pry them off forcibly.

                        Assembly-wise, the sides are slotted so that the bottom panel fits
                        into it. It's never a bad idea to put a little wood glue in these
                        slots for added strength. The bottom panel is a thinner ply than all
                        the other parts, but should be OK unless you're planning on hauling
                        cannonballs in it. ;->

                        As mentioned previously, the lid lifts off. The short sides of the lid
                        are beveled to fit flush, strips of plywood appear to be glued on the
                        underside running along the long sides so the lid doesn't surf off the
                        chest. Caveat: I also have their APA storage box and one of the
                        screwed on strips decided not to stay screwed after a rough ride off a
                        primitive site. Depending on how hard you are on the box, you might
                        have to reattach one or both of these at a future date.

                        The long sides of the lid are not beveled, so if you want to attach
                        hinges and a hasp of some sort, you should be able to do so.

                        Oh, and you'll need a Phillips head screwdriver to screw the sides to
                        the front and back panels.

                        Back to work,
                        Jehanne
                      • wodeford
                        ... And possibly a drill - while there were screw holes predrilled, they didn t *quite* line up correctly, so I had to re-drill most of the ones on mine. And
                        Message 11 of 16 , Feb 5, 2005
                          --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "wodeford" <wodeford@y...> wrote:

                          > Oh, and you'll need a Phillips head screwdriver to screw the sides to
                          > the front and back panels.

                          And possibly a drill - while there were screw holes predrilled, they
                          didn't *quite* line up correctly, so I had to re-drill most of the
                          ones on mine.

                          And sandpaper.

                          Other than that, it goes together very easily.

                          Jehanne
                        Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.