Re: [Authentic_SCA] "Woven Into The Earth" - 'upright seams'?
I've had the danish edition for a while, and have done quite a bit of
playing with the types of stitching. I'm not entirely sure which
stitch she translates to 'upright seams' - could you give me a bit
more on where in the text this is?
'stab stitch' is probably what we call 'prick stygn', a decorative
form of top stitching. it's not back stitch, it's done more like a
figure eight that means that each stitch lies very close to the
previous one, making it look remarkably like a machine stitch if done
well... It's used in folk costume stitching as well. As usual it's one
of those things I could show you in ten seconds...
- Maggie: Where is a teleporter when we need it? My handstitching is
rather non-existent & what there is of it is poor, as is my embroidery.
However, I have a pattern from an Icelandic altar frontal that is
It would be so nice to get a bunch of ladies & gentlemen together for a
week......... Jennifer [Ælfgifu]
[Yseult, are you listening? I'll lend you my broom, if you need one...]
- Sorry about starting a conversation and then disappearing - the doc, the
bed, and my sinuses (not in that order) are to blame. Give me a cold and my
brain shuts down...
I found that I had two pages tuck together and after reading the nice
messages explaining "stab stitch" I went back to the book to look again and
there was a great diagram of the technique on page 100 showing the way that
the needle needs to be manipulated. Since it ends up looking like the
double-running-stitch but only takes one "pass", I wonder how much thread it
saves. (Idle thought)
Maggie Forest wrote:
> I've had the danish edition for a while, and have doneMaggie, oh to have the ability to read in the original! Okay, now that I can
> quite a bit ofvcplaying with the types of stitching.
> I'm not entirely sure which stitch she translates to
> 'upright seams' - could you give me a bit more on where
> in the text this is?
go back to the book and read again (it's been two days of no reading. Oh,
the pain!), in her discussion of Garment Type Ib, Norland 38 (starting on
p160 in "Woven in the earth"), Ms. Ostergard wrote:
"Tablet-woven piped edging: Below,
the garment is bordered with a 12mm
wide singling. There is also a 7mm
narrow strip of tablet-woven
piped edging, three rows on the
right side with a couple of twisted
(filler) threads laid under the stitch-
es on the back, parallel to the
cut-off edge. Some of the lengthwise
seams have two rows of tablet-woven
piped edging, while others have an
ordinary seam and overcast
stitching, so that the seams are
Finally there are seams where
the overcast stitches sew the seam
allowance down to the cloth."
There is no drawing or photo to illustrate the "upright" seam.
Again, on p. 182, in the discussion of Norland 45, under "Tabletwoven piped
edging", she writes:
"The lengthwise seams are sewn either
with tablet-woven piped edging or
with running stitches and over-
casting of the seam allowance with
a thick (filler) thread laid under the
stitches. Some of the 9mm wide
seam allowance is 'upright'."
I think that there's a few more examples in there, but you can see my
confusion. I'm thinking that this would mean that the seam allowance is
overcast, perhaps rolled, to resemble a piped seam, although doing that
inside the garment seems odd. But then, so does putting all the pretty
herringbone stitches on the inside of the seams on that Birka find (? was
that the Birka find?) seems odd too, so *shrug* there is that...
Hrothny, running out of steam
>I think that there's a few more examples in there, but you can see myno - what she means is that the seam allowances are not caught down to
>confusion. I'm thinking that this would mean that the seam allowance is
>overcast, perhaps rolled, to resemble a piped seam, although doing that
>inside the garment seems odd. But then, so does putting all the pretty
>herringbone stitches on the inside of the seams on that Birka find (? was
>that the Birka find?) seems odd too, so *shrug* there is that...
either side of the seam, as they are when overcast/caught, or
tablet/sewn. If you check the diagrams on page 99 (in my copy),
there's one - fig. 66 - which shows the direction of the sewing down
of seam allowances on #38. While the folds of the gown are forced to
fold gracefully by pushing the seam allowances in a specific
direction, the centre seams of the gussets and the side seams are left
'standing', or loose, so that they kind of disappear.
Not entirely instinctive, I know... She showed me this feature of the
seam allowances being used to control the fall of the fabric when I
visited Brede, so I'm pretty sure this is what she intends to tell us
in the book.
> What she means is that the seam allowances are<snip>
> not caught down to either side of the seam, as
> they are when overcast/caught, or tablet/sewn.
> If you check the diagrams on page 99 (in my copy),
> there's one - fig. 66 - which shows the direction
> of the sewing down of seam allowances on #38.
> While the folds of the gown are forced to
> fold gracefully by pushing the seam allowances in
> a specific direction, the centre seams of the
> gussets and the side seams are left 'standing',
> or loose, so that they kind of disappear.
Ha! Got it! I do that with my linen gowns sometimes after I've sewn the
seam. Do the raw edges of the seam allowance get "tucked in" before the
overcasting? I know in wool that's not so important but I consider it
essential in ravelly-linen so it's intellectual curiosity. It does seem to
help seam disappear into the gown from the outside. (That sentence doesn't
scan well out loud, so don't read this to anyone!)
I assuming that it's basically the same seam finishing shown on page 100
of the new English edition as "figure 70", except that there's no piping
involved in the "upright seam".
Thank you Maggie!
Hrothny of the cleared forehead wrinkles