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fur-lined c1515 French gown

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  • Revival Corsets
    Excited!! I just ordered enough of a lovely Toscana lambskin w/very thin leather backing for this gown (and perhaps trim on a few other gowns):
    Message 1 of 1 , Oct 5, 2004
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      Excited!! I just ordered enough of a lovely Toscana lambskin w/very
      thin leather backing for this gown (and perhaps trim on a few other
      gowns):
      http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1495-1515Francecrop.jpg (the woman
      in red)

      The fur's color is different than that in the illumination; it'll be
      a naturalish sort of dark reddish brown. Since the darker colored
      furs were more fashionable at this time, I think I'm going to dress
      up the gown a bit more than the one shown in this specific
      illumination. This illumination is the one that pushed me over the
      edge into making the gown, but there are dozens of other
      inspirational illustrations of basically the same style; the only
      thing exceptional about this one is the split at the front, which is
      unusual but not unheard of this early in the 16th century.

      The problem is that I'm sort of stalled when it comes to thinking of
      ways to fancy it up. I'm aiming for a target date of 1510-15 for the
      gown, but most of the fancier, stereotypically 'Tudor' elements are
      yet to come at that date. Since I'm blowing all my money on the fur
      lining, I can't use the main fancying method of the time, namely
      expensive fabric; I'll be using a solid, muted burgundy ribbed silk
      w/linen weft. I'm not sure exactly how yet, but I'll be working some
      black details into the outfit, so the overall color scheme will be
      muted not-too-dark burgundy, dark reddish brown, and black, with
      gold detailing.

      From what I've seen, embroidery wasn't really used that much on
      outer gowns at this time, at least not in any ways that seem
      suitable. I could pearl it like Mary Tudor's black gown, but again
      with the money; I might be able to stand glass pearls from an
      authentic standpoint, but even with those the cost might add up
      pretty fast. Nifty little metal mounts might work, but wouldn't
      satisfy me by themselves:
      http://search.sothebys.com/jsps/live/lot/LotDetail.jsp?lot_id=3XXMS

      Other than that, about the only thing I can think of is trim or
      ribbon. I'd like to use only authentic materials in this, though, so
      any trim I could buy is almost certainly out, and that much silk
      ribbon gets expensive, even ordering from JKM! I'm going for French,
      so Germanic style guards won't really work, although some sort of
      applied fabric effect such as in Elizabeth of York's famous portrait
      might:
      http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/York,Elizabeth.jpg

      Ideally, I'd like to find something that doesn't cost much in
      materials, but can be made to look very nice with the application of
      enough elbow grease. Embroidery would be good, if only I could find
      some suitable application of it! I love the decorations in these two
      portraits:
      http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/clouet/jean/francois.jpg
      http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/clouet/francois/charles7.jpg
      ...but of course the problem is that they're male! I'm sure whatever
      I wind up with will be a combination of one or more elements--I'm
      just stuck on picking the elements. =}

      Any ideas, keeping in mind that I'm going for the most authenticity
      possible within my budget of around $40ish? (Uy. All together, the
      materials of this outfit are going to be ~$750. I really don't want
      to mess this up!)

      Let me explain the motive for this gown as quickly as I can: see, I'm
      working on a line of clothing for sale. I'm focusing on the period
      from ~1375-1525 with particular focus on 1475-1510, and the styles I
      offer will be as provably authentic as possible, in style,
      materials, and seaming. On the construction side, I'm offering 2
      levels of authenticity:
      A) ready-made, fitted to a few basic measurements, e.g. size 12
      petite, but not truly custom fitted, and in which there will be no
      visible machine sewing, but in which modern construction methods and
      a minimum of hand-sewing are used; and
      B) custom fitted, where the garment is fitted by way of lots of
      measurements and a fitting-by-mail of a muslin, and the construction
      techniques are much more authentic and hand-stitching abounds. Both
      the ready-made and the custom will come with documentation.

      The gown in question now is meant to be a display piece, to show off
      my skill, my attention to detail, and my dedication to authenticity--
      and since I expect to make more money off of the accessories side of
      the business, it'll be the backdrop for lots of fancy millinery,
      jewelry, belts, chemises both plain and ridiculously fancy,
      partlets, etc etc etc. The plot is for people to look at this gown
      and say, "Wow, if she can do _this_, I bet she'll do an amazing job
      on _my_ much simpler garment!" Also, since my area of interest is
      not a particularly popular or well known area--at least not compared
      with say, Elizabethan--I want people to start drooling over the
      sorts of gowns I like to make, so that I can build up demand for my
      pretty little square-necked gowns. (And all the rest, of course, but
      the square-necked gowns are soooo pretty...) Sort of like our hope
      to lure people over to the authentic side--if they see it and like
      it, maybe they'll want one of their own! No demand? Well, by gosh
      and by golly I'll MAKE demand. =}

      -E House
      Coming Soon -- http://www.seamcheckers.com
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