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RE: [Authentic_SCA] Bargain books here...

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  • Wanda Pease
    Willow, what a great idea. I just went to your folder and added a bunch from my favorites list. I ve done business with all of them and been very satisfied.
    Message 1 of 27 , Jan 31, 2004
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      Willow, what a great idea. I just went to your folder and added a bunch
      from my favorites list. I've done business with all of them and been very
      satisfied.

      I also do a lot of book buying from used book sources such as abebooks.com,
      bookfinder.com, half.com etc. Sometimes if you know the title of the book
      you can get it a lot cheaper than Amazon wants to charge for it, even if you
      use their link to bibliofind.com. Also, not all sellers list with any of
      these, so you keep going through the list until you hit what you want at a
      price you are willing to pay.

      There are also an incredible number of books on-line, free for the
      downloading. If someone wants to make up the link page, I'll post to it.

      Regina, who spends WAY too much money on books now!


      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: Willow Polson
      >
      > Hey you guys, I found some really great books at this place:
      >
      > http://www.hamiltonbook.com/
      >
      > You may have seen the newsprint version of this catalog... I just
      > bought 4
      > great books from them this evening and you can search by keywords (like
      > "medieval embroidery" or "living history" for example) or browse by
      > subject. Cool! (And yes, I not only added this to our Links, I made a
      > folder called Book Sellers where other people can add their fave place to
      > get living history books...)
      >
      >
    • Andrea Huwydd Lycsenbwrg
      Note: some of these only work if even back then you stuck to cotton or other natural fibres.... 1. Donate to Gold Key. 2. Give to a nursery school or
      Message 2 of 27 , Feb 1, 2004
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        Note: some of these only work if even back then you
        stuck to cotton or other natural fibres....

        1. Donate to Gold Key.
        2. Give to a nursery school or after-school program
        to
        play dressup.
        3. Adapt for a Halloween costume.
        4. Cut up for patchwork.
        5. Recut and sew into mundane clothing.
        6. Use as a nightgown.
        7. Make dollclothes.
        8. Donate to a church for Nativity pageants.
        9. Wash and dry the car.
        10. Enter tacky garb contests.
        11. Teach a class using it as an example of what not
        to.
        12. Recut using an authentic pattern to try it out
        before cutting your $10/yard woolen.

        Anyone like to add to the list?

        I'm working on #12 now. My goal is mid-13th century
        Welsh, looking at the Peniarth 28 and Maciejowski
        Bible illustrations. I've got Kass's article on the
        St. Louis tunic and Cynthia Virtue's Practical
        Worksheet for Tunic Construction. Any suggestions,
        amendments,pitfalls, or advice?

        Diolch iti.

        Gweyrvyl



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      • wodeford
        ... I don t know if you re a machine or hand sewer, however, if you are a machine sewer, don t try to set the gore points in place with the machine. Get the
        Message 3 of 27 , Feb 1, 2004
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          --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Andrea Huwydd Lycsenbwrg
          <huwydd@y...> wrote:
          >> I'm working on #12 now. My goal is mid-13th century
          > Welsh, looking at the Peniarth 28 and Maciejowski
          > Bible illustrations. I've got Kass's article on the
          > St. Louis tunic and Cynthia Virtue's Practical
          > Worksheet for Tunic Construction. Any suggestions,
          > amendments,pitfalls, or advice?

          I don't know if you're a machine or hand sewer, however, if you are a
          machine sewer, don't try to set the gore points in place with the
          machine. Get the points sewn in by hand, THEN you can machine sew the
          rest of the seams if you so desire. These tunic styles are pretty
          easy to put together, otherwise. I love 'em.

          Jehanne
        • Mary Taran
          ... www.clotilde.com has pleating machines for people who do a lot of smocking. I understand they are fast and reliable. Mary Taran [Non-text portions of this
          Message 4 of 27 , Feb 1, 2004
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            >I can tell you now--pleating is a pain in the butt and you will get
            >sick of doing a running stitch. Once that's done, however, the
            >embroidery work is fairly quick and really satisfying. I did a cuff
            >in a few hours. I'll try taking pics, but I'm not sure how well it
            >will come out since it's white on white.
            >
            >Isabeau

            www.clotilde.com has pleating machines for people who do a lot of
            smocking. I understand they are fast and reliable.

            Mary Taran

            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Mary Taran
            ... It is my understanding that the 3.5 they get is variable--sometimes it s thicker threads woven loosely, and other times it s finer all over. That is one
            Message 5 of 27 , Feb 1, 2004
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              At 12:21 PM 1/30/04, you wrote:
              >I ordered some of the 3.5 oz linen too. The threads are quite thick,
              >not set too closely together. It's not completely opaque, but quite
              >close. Washing it got it softer, but if anything more opaque, since
              >the threads shrank closer together and got a bit more fluffy. More
              >washing will get it still softer, I expect, but not finer.
              >
              >I got some of their mid-weight linen and its almost too coarse to be
              >used. On the other hand, the blue grey that I got is thin but dense
              >and drapable, and altogether yummy. They don't seem to list it any
              >more though.
              >
              >Ranvaig

              It is my understanding that the 3.5 they get is variable--sometimes it's
              thicker threads woven loosely, and other times it's finer all over. That
              is one problem with using weights as the delineation of a fabric's fineness
              or sheerness.

              Mary Taran

              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Andrea Huwydd Lycsenbwrg
              ... Probably a combination - hand sewing on the parts that show, and machine on the long seams when my hands rebel or my eyes glaze over. ... I m worried about
              Message 6 of 27 , Feb 1, 2004
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                --- wodeford <wodeford@...> wrote:

                >
                > I don't know if you're a machine or hand sewer,

                Probably a combination - hand sewing on the parts that
                show, and machine on the long seams when my hands
                rebel or my eyes glaze over.

                > however, if you are a
                > machine sewer, don't try to set the gore points in
                > place with the
                > machine. Get the points sewn in by hand, THEN you
                > can machine sew the
                > rest of the seams if you so desire.

                I'm worried about those gores anyhow. I might put a
                center seam in just to make the gores a bit easier,
                the first time at least.

                How do you set in gore points without botching the
                whole thing?


                Gweyrvyl

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              • wodeford
                ... That does work pretty well. ... Give yourself a fair seam allowance and pin the sucker! http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_goresgussets.htm has some info on
                Message 7 of 27 , Feb 1, 2004
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                  --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Andrea Huwydd Lycsenbwrg
                  <huwydd@y...> wrote:
                  >> I'm worried about those gores anyhow. I might put a
                  > center seam in just to make the gores a bit easier,
                  > the first time at least.
                  That does work pretty well.

                  > How do you set in gore points without botching the
                  > whole thing?

                  Give yourself a fair seam allowance and pin the sucker!

                  http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_goresgussets.htm has some info on
                  doing this by machine or hand, complete with photos.

                  Good luck,
                  Jehanne
                • Heather Rose Jones
                  ... Here s my method. 1. Cut the slit in the main fabric up to around 2 inches from where you expect it to end. 2. Take the gore and fold a
                  Message 8 of 27 , Feb 1, 2004
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                    At 4:20 PM -0800 2/1/04, Andrea Huwydd Lycsenbwrg wrote:

                    >I'm worried about those gores anyhow. I might put a
                    >center seam in just to make the gores a bit easier,
                    >the first time at least.
                    >
                    >How do you set in gore points without botching the
                    >whole thing?

                    Here's my method.

                    1. Cut the slit in the main fabric up to around 2 inches from where
                    you expect it to end.

                    2. Take the gore and fold a seam-allowance-worth of fabric under
                    along the seams. Don't worry too much about the top being neat, but
                    find the theoretical "point" where your fold lines will meet.

                    3. Lay the gore onto the main fabric so that your folded edges are a
                    seam-allowance-worth from the slit edge (i.e., so that the two cut
                    edges line up underneath where you're not looking). Line up the
                    point of the folded gore to your theoretical top of the slit (that
                    you haven't cut up to yet).

                    4. Pin in place along both sides. Hold the panel up to see how it
                    hangs. The point may be funky, but there shouldn't be weird bunching
                    or pulling along the sides.

                    5. When you're happy, rearrange the pins so that you've got a more
                    traditional "pinned right sides together", but without moving the
                    pieces relative to each other. Don't worry about the top couple of
                    inches -- in fact, take out any pins in the top.

                    6. Sew the seams up to within a couple inches of the top -- stop at
                    whatever point it starts getting awkward. Sew both seams from the
                    same direction, either bottom up or top down (so if there's any minor
                    "fabric creep" it goes in the same direction).

                    7. Working from the right side, re-fold and re-pin your "point".
                    Hand sew the folded edges to the main panel with a whip stitch.

                    8. Turn to the "wrong" side again, carefully start snipping the
                    final part of your slit behind the point, but only as high as you
                    need to go so that the point lies elegantly on the right side. You
                    _don't_ want to snip all the way up to the "point".

                    9. Add seam finishes, if appropriate, but any machine work should
                    again stop a couple inches short of the point and be finished by hand.

                    Ok, so I don't actually do it this carefully and methodically all the
                    time, but if I were teaching someone, that's where I'd start them out.

                    For another angle, consider that at least on several garments with
                    this type of inset gore, the gore is slightly gathered at the top,
                    rather than being inserted with a crisp "point". The Saint Louis
                    tunic actually has a slight gathering to the point of the gore, and
                    there's a tunic in Hald (I forget the site name offhand) that has
                    several inches worth of "top" gathered or pleated into the insertion
                    point.

                    Tangwystyl
                    --
                    *****
                    Heather Rose Jones
                    hrjones@...
                    *****
                  • Ii Saburou
                    ... You know, I ll have to save those. I could have used that advice on several projects! -Ii
                    Message 9 of 27 , Feb 1, 2004
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                      On Mon, 2 Feb 2004, wodeford wrote:

                      > Give yourself a fair seam allowance and pin the sucker!
                      >
                      > http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_goresgussets.htm has some info on
                      > doing this by machine or hand, complete with photos.

                      You know, I'll have to save those. I could have used that advice on
                      several projects!

                      -Ii
                    • Lynn Meyer
                      ... Would you please explain that more? As in, is it the gore itself that has gathering, or the main-panel that the gore is set into? So far on two projects,
                      Message 10 of 27 , Feb 1, 2004
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                        > From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@...>
                        >Subject: Re: Re: 101 Uses for a dead T-tunic....
                        >
                        ><large snip>
                        >
                        >For another angle, consider that at least on several garments with
                        >this type of inset gore, the gore is slightly gathered at the top,
                        >rather than being inserted with a crisp "point". The Saint Louis
                        >tunic actually has a slight gathering to the point of the gore, and
                        >there's a tunic in Hald (I forget the site name offhand) that has
                        >several inches worth of "top" gathered or pleated into the insertion
                        >point.

                        Would you please explain that more? As in, is it the gore itself
                        that has gathering, or the main-panel that the gore is set into?

                        So far on two projects, I've been doing "machine-sew up to
                        the last few inches, then improvise something that won't fray
                        no matter how much I wash it", but I'm not satisfied with
                        how long it takes... I'm hoping that people in period
                        figured out something I can use!

                        I saw a "gathering" comment in your TI article on the St. Louis
                        tunic, but wasn't sure how to interpret it there either.

                        Thanks!
                        Halima
                        =====================================================
                        SCA: Halima de la Lucha, Crosston, Mists, West
                        (Silicon Valley (San Francisco Bay Area), CA, USA)
                        http://www.halimal.com

                        >Tangwystyl
                        >--
                        >*****
                        >Heather Rose Jones
                        >hrjones@...
                        >*****
                      • aheilvei
                        ... abebooks.com, ... the book ... even if you ... May I request that you add these sources to the booksellers folder? After all, they re book sellers too and
                        Message 11 of 27 , Feb 2, 2004
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                          > I also do a lot of book buying from used book sources such as
                          abebooks.com,
                          > bookfinder.com, half.com etc. Sometimes if you know the title of
                          the book
                          > you can get it a lot cheaper than Amazon wants to charge for it,
                          even if you
                          > use their link to bibliofind.com.


                          May I request that you add these sources to the booksellers folder?
                          After all, they're book sellers too and are used by a tremendous
                          number of people.

                          Smiles,
                          Despina
                        • Heather Rose Jones
                          ... The gore, rather than being a triangle, has the top point cut off so that there is a flat top. (And I don t know why I m utterly blanking on the proper
                          Message 12 of 27 , Feb 3, 2004
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                            At 8:37 PM -0800 2/1/04, Lynn Meyer wrote:
                            > > From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@...>
                            >>Subject: Re: Re: 101 Uses for a dead T-tunic....
                            >>
                            >><large snip>
                            >>
                            >>For another angle, consider that at least on several garments with
                            >>this type of inset gore, the gore is slightly gathered at the top,
                            >>rather than being inserted with a crisp "point". The Saint Louis
                            >>tunic actually has a slight gathering to the point of the gore, and
                            >>there's a tunic in Hald (I forget the site name offhand) that has
                            >>several inches worth of "top" gathered or pleated into the insertion
                            >>point.
                            >
                            >Would you please explain that more? As in, is it the gore itself
                            >that has gathering, or the main-panel that the gore is set into?


                            The gore, rather than being a triangle, has the top point "cut off"
                            so that there is a flat top. (And I don't know why I'm utterly
                            blanking on the proper name for this in geometry.) The flat top is
                            slightly gathered and the seam path on the main panel is has more of
                            a rounded top rather than a point.


                            >So far on two projects, I've been doing "machine-sew up to
                            >the last few inches, then improvise something that won't fray
                            >no matter how much I wash it", but I'm not satisfied with
                            >how long it takes... I'm hoping that people in period
                            >figured out something I can use!

                            *laugh* But of course people in period had a solution that took even
                            _longer_! I honestly think that the "hand-sew the top of the gore"
                            method is the optimum balance between efficiency and good results.
                            It isn't even just the esthetics -- it's pretty much topologically
                            impossible to sew a pointed gusset entirely by machine unless you're
                            going for a two-part main panel instead.

                            Tangwystyl
                            --
                            *****
                            Heather Rose Jones
                            hrjones@...
                            *****
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