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Re: [Authentic_SCA] 14th century Florentine clothing discussion

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  • Lynn Meyer
    ... There s some info on silk fabric widths in Lucca, Italy, in 1376 in: King, Donald, and King, Monique. Silk Weaves of Lucca in 1376, pp. 67-76 in Inger
    Message 1 of 2 , Jan 29, 2004
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      > From: "Colleen McDonald" <colleen.mcdonald@...>
      >From: "katherinejsanders" <turtle_worm@b...>
      > > That's a fantastic image! it even shows the back of their hair :-)
      > > Did you use a two (with back panel split) panel fit-n-pin method? I
      > > can't see gores in the skirt and it may be that the loom width at
      > > this point was wide enough to actually allow a more 'circular' cut
      > > skirt. Whaddya think?>>
      >I used a four panel construction for the body (center front and center back
      >seams to allow the close fitting a la Last Judgment) with gores at the front
      >back and sides to get the volume that we see in the skirt. I have not been
      >able to find info on fabric width in Florence at this time, but Bridbury
      >discusses the Cloth of Assize measurements in his book, Medieval English
      >Clothmaking: An Economic Review.

      There's some info on silk fabric widths in Lucca, Italy, in 1376 in:
      King, Donald, and King, Monique. "Silk Weaves of Lucca in 1376,"
      pp. 67-76 in Inger Estham and Margareta Nockert, eds., _Opera Textilia
      Variorum Temporum to Honor Agnes Geijer on Her Ninetieth Birthday 26
      October 1988_. The Museum of National Antiquities, Stockholm, Studies No.
      8. Stockholm: Statens Historiska Museum, 1988. (Excerpts from guild
      requirements, giving names, widths, and setts for various Italian silks.)

      The widths range from 2 bracchia (118 cm, or 46 1/2 inches)
      to 2/3 bracchio (39 cm, or 15 1/3 inches) (in 1382), depending on
      the cloth type. The article lists four groups of silk textiles.

      The first group is mostly figured textiles, including 3 kinds of silk
      baldachini; cloth of gold and silver; and several other kinds of silks.
      Most of these were woven in a width of at least 2 braccia, 118 cm,
      including selvages. (And woven in lengths of 7 1/2 and 5 1/4 braccia,
      443 and 310 cm.) They could also be woven in a width of 1 braccio (59 cm)
      excluding selvages.

      The second group is velvets, which were to be at least 1 braccia (59 cm)
      wide, and at least 12 1/2 braccia long.

      The third group is heavy satins and light satins. They were to be at least
      1 braccia by 13 braccia.

      The fourth group is non-figured textiles, including taffecta (taffetas),
      sendada (sendals), and some others. They were to be in 13-braccia
      lengths, in various widths. Taffecta in tre sendadi - which they think
      means triple-width sendals - were to be 2 braccia in 1376, 1 3/4 in 1382.
      Taffetas of double sendal width were to be at least 1 1/3 braccia wide.
      Narrow sendals were to be at least 3/4 braccio (44 cm) wide in 1376,
      or 2/3 braccio (39 cm) in 1382. Broad sendals were to be at least
      1 1/3 braccia wide (79 cm). And so on...

      Meanwhile, the discussion that originally started from possible
      technical reasons for narrow widths for drawloom-woven silks
      is still continuing on the SCAWeaving list :-) I expect to summarize
      the narrow-width part of it here in a paragraph or two (so far).

      The discussion there is what pointed me to the above article
      on guild regulations.

      SCA: Halima de la Lucha, Crosston, Mists, West
      (Silicon Valley (San Francisco Bay Area), CA, USA)
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