Re: [Authentic_SCA] 14th century Florentine clothing discussion
> From: "Colleen McDonald" <colleen.mcdonald@...>There's some info on silk fabric widths in Lucca, Italy, in 1376 in:
>From: "katherinejsanders" <turtle_worm@b...>
> > That's a fantastic image! it even shows the back of their hair :-)
> > Did you use a two (with back panel split) panel fit-n-pin method? I
> > can't see gores in the skirt and it may be that the loom width at
> > this point was wide enough to actually allow a more 'circular' cut
> > skirt. Whaddya think?>>
>I used a four panel construction for the body (center front and center back
>seams to allow the close fitting a la Last Judgment) with gores at the front
>back and sides to get the volume that we see in the skirt. I have not been
>able to find info on fabric width in Florence at this time, but Bridbury
>discusses the Cloth of Assize measurements in his book, Medieval English
>Clothmaking: An Economic Review.
King, Donald, and King, Monique. "Silk Weaves of Lucca in 1376,"
pp. 67-76 in Inger Estham and Margareta Nockert, eds., _Opera Textilia
Variorum Temporum to Honor Agnes Geijer on Her Ninetieth Birthday 26
October 1988_. The Museum of National Antiquities, Stockholm, Studies No.
8. Stockholm: Statens Historiska Museum, 1988. (Excerpts from guild
requirements, giving names, widths, and setts for various Italian silks.)
The widths range from 2 bracchia (118 cm, or 46 1/2 inches)
to 2/3 bracchio (39 cm, or 15 1/3 inches) (in 1382), depending on
the cloth type. The article lists four groups of silk textiles.
The first group is mostly figured textiles, including 3 kinds of silk
baldachini; cloth of gold and silver; and several other kinds of silks.
Most of these were woven in a width of at least 2 braccia, 118 cm,
including selvages. (And woven in lengths of 7 1/2 and 5 1/4 braccia,
443 and 310 cm.) They could also be woven in a width of 1 braccio (59 cm)
The second group is velvets, which were to be at least 1 braccia (59 cm)
wide, and at least 12 1/2 braccia long.
The third group is heavy satins and light satins. They were to be at least
1 braccia by 13 braccia.
The fourth group is non-figured textiles, including taffecta (taffetas),
sendada (sendals), and some others. They were to be in 13-braccia
lengths, in various widths. Taffecta in tre sendadi - which they think
means triple-width sendals - were to be 2 braccia in 1376, 1 3/4 in 1382.
Taffetas of double sendal width were to be at least 1 1/3 braccia wide.
Narrow sendals were to be at least 3/4 braccio (44 cm) wide in 1376,
or 2/3 braccio (39 cm) in 1382. Broad sendals were to be at least
1 1/3 braccia wide (79 cm). And so on...
Meanwhile, the discussion that originally started from possible
technical reasons for narrow widths for drawloom-woven silks
is still continuing on the SCAWeaving list :-) I expect to summarize
the narrow-width part of it here in a paragraph or two (so far).
The discussion there is what pointed me to the above article
on guild regulations.
SCA: Halima de la Lucha, Crosston, Mists, West
(Silicon Valley (San Francisco Bay Area), CA, USA)