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Re: [Authentic_SCA] Bocksten Tunic patterns

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  • Mary Bader Montgomery
    ... This may be a little too elementary a response, but you can increase the width of the front and back panels. You said that you didn t have exact
    Message 1 of 4 , Jan 2, 2004
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      At 05:07 PM 1/2/04 +0000, you wrote:
      >Happy New Year!!
      >
      >Yesterday in some freetime I constructed a tunic from online patterns
      >of the Bocksten. I didnt quite have the exact measurements, so I had
      >to eyeball it. I am rather proud that I ended up with a wearable
      >tunic made form scrap cotton (I know its not correct) So now heres my
      >question. The the majority if the pattern being laid out in straight
      >lines is there a way to make it less tight across the chest and loser
      >in the shoulders? Also how far up from the bottom should the gores
      >extend in the front? Mine come up to about my ribcage.
      >Is there evidence that tunics had buttons on the front to allow
      >opening? Especially of a heavy wool like I am about to construct.
      >
      >Regards,
      >
      >Paul

      This may be a little too elementary a response, but you can increase the
      width of the front and back panels. You said that you didn't have exact
      measurements. I have found from years of making clothes that most people
      underestimate their measurements and that they forget about the secret of
      comfortable clothes: Wearing ease. In order to make a close-fitting
      garment, you need to make it about 2" larger than your
      measurement. Fashion ease adds more. I'm not familiar with the Bocksten
      to which you refer, but the description of the cut is similar to most
      "shirts" of the earlier Middle Ages. Most of those have a fairly loose
      cut. In such a case, I'd give at least 6" fashion ease for a slim person,
      and 8" for a heftier person.

      Tunics had buttons in a number of different periods, most of which are
      later than the rectilinear-cut garments you describe. I do recall a few
      examples, but couldn't give you specifics, of some with short slits that
      close with a button or two to close it.

      Not near my books right now.

      Mary Taran


      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Marc Carlson
      ... Yesterday in some freetime I constructed a tunic from online patterns ... If you want to stick to the Bocksten format, use wider fabric. It you are
      Message 2 of 4 , Jan 2, 2004
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        --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <grenadier916@h...> wrote:
        Yesterday in some freetime I constructed a tunic from online patterns
        > of the Bocksten. I didnt quite have the exact measurements, so I had
        > to eyeball it. I am rather proud that I ended up with a wearable
        > tunic made form scrap cotton (I know its not correct) So now heres
        > my question. The the majority if the pattern being laid out in
        > straight lines is there a way to make it less tight across the chest
        > and loser in the shoulders?

        If you want to stick to the Bocksten format, use wider fabric. It you
        are willing to spread out to other other garments from the same
        general era, then you can use side panels to "widen the fabric".

        > Also how far up from the bottom should the gores
        > extend in the front? Mine come up to about my ribcage.

        Again, if you are reproducing the Bocksten, then it should come up to
        about to your waist/navel. If you are wanting something slightly
        different, then the ribcage is ok. Personally I suspect that the
        garments depicted in 13th century documents like the Mac Bible and the
        Manessa Codex would have been made with gores going up to the center
        of the chest, even for a man's outfit.

        > Is there evidence that tunics had buttons on the front to allow
        > opening? Especially of a heavy wool like I am about to construct.

        Certainly some did. Not the Bocksten, mind you, but others. You
        could takea look at
        http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/tunics.html for
        some examples.

        Marc/Diarmaid
      • Heather Rose Jones
        ... For this type of garment, working from the general schematic and then adapting it to your measurements (and materials) is the best way to go anyway. So
        Message 3 of 4 , Jan 2, 2004
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          At 5:07 PM +0000 1/2/04, Paul wrote:
          >Happy New Year!!
          >
          >Yesterday in some freetime I constructed a tunic from online patterns
          >of the Bocksten. I didnt quite have the exact measurements, so I had
          >to eyeball it.


          For this type of garment, working from the general schematic and then
          adapting it to your measurements (and materials) is the best way to
          go anyway. So what you did would have been the best approach even if
          you _had_ the exact measurements.


          > I am rather proud that I ended up with a wearable
          >tunic made form scrap cotton (I know its not correct) So now heres my
          >question. The the majority if the pattern being laid out in straight
          >lines is there a way to make it less tight across the chest and loser
          >in the shoulders?


          Given the narrowness of the sleeve attachment, you don't really want
          much looseness around the shoulders. If you make it too loose, then
          (perhaps counter-intuitively) you lose a lot of your arm movement.
          The version I made of this garment also came out fairly snug fitting,
          but once you accept that it's supposed to fit that way, it may not be
          a problem. (This is assuming that it isn't, in fact, simply too
          small.) I'd say that the best way to add a little ease in the chest
          and shoulders is in picking a fabric with a little more stretch to
          it. (*grin* ... like wool)

          If you find you simply can't get comfortable with something this
          snug, you may want to try a different model to work from. For
          example, the sleeve types characteristic of the Herjolfsness garments
          (not meaning to imply that they're all the same) are a bit more
          conducive to a loose fit at the chest and shoulders (being slightly
          fuller at the top, and set into a more shaped armscye).


          >Also how far up from the bottom should the gores
          >extend in the front? Mine come up to about my ribcage.


          While there are some garments in this general style-family where the
          gores extend that high, I believe a good rule of thumb for the
          Bocksten tunic is that they should end around the belt-line.


          >Is there evidence that tunics had buttons on the front to allow
          >opening? Especially of a heavy wool like I am about to construct.

          Ah, now if you want to make a button-front garment of heavier wool,
          then I highly recommend Herjolfsness #63
          <http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/herjol63.html>.
          It's a much looser-fitting style with a open front that buttons.

          Tangwystyl
          --
          *****
          Heather Rose (you may now call me Doctor) Jones
          hrjones@...
          *****
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