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Re: [Authentic_SCA] Trim sources

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  • Arianne de Chateaumichel
    ... Actually, that s not quite true. I can t say anything about Irish fashions, but my primary research focus is 12th century Norman and French fashions.
    Message 1 of 7 , Oct 5, 2003
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      Bran asked:
      >>I'm looking for a source for some authentic trim, if such a place exists.
      >>I'm looking for something appropriate for 12th Century Irish, or even
      >>Norman...

      and Mary answered:
      >Trim per se is not the appropriate decoration. Through virtually all of
      >our period, including the one you cite, embroidery was done directly onto
      >the garment in question. Passementerie is a poor second choice.

      Actually, that's not quite true. I can't say anything about Irish fashions, but my primary
      research focus is 12th century Norman and French fashions. During the 12th century,
      tabletweaving was a fashionable and highly developed craft, utilizing (among and for
      the nobility) silk threads, gold and silver brocading, and even embroidery on the bands
      to bring out details. Pieces have been found attached to the remains of garments from
      the period, and the trims are exquisite! The bands we see on statues and in
      illuminations could quite plausibly also be tabletweaving (same general look as the
      extant pieces, but usually with less detail) and are definitely used as _trim_.

      I've been sketching out patterns I find in my research, and really need to get them up
      on my website in the near future. There are quite a few geometrics: lattices, diamonds,
      diagonals, "X's in boxes", and chevrons. There are also quite a few circles, ovals,
      lemons, leaves, fleurs-de-lis, and half-quatrefoils.

      If you're not ready to take up tabletweaving, I would suggest you visit my favourite trim
      merchant, Calontir Trim <www.calontirtrim.com>. All the "good substitutes" I've found
      came from him.

      Even if one was doing embroidery instead of tabletweaving (or other narrow woven
      works), there is plenty of documentation out there for the embroidery being done onto a
      second piece of fabric that is later attached to the garment fabric. We just don't know
      whether that was a case of choosing the layered approach or if the embroidered edge
      was cut off an old garment that had originally been made with the embroidery on the
      fabric of the garment itself. In any case, you won't go wrong doing your embroidery on
      a band of fabric that you apply to your garment later. And since the backs of your
      stitching will be enclosed, the work will age better.


      Your Servant,
      Honourable Lady Arianne de Chateaumichel

      Shire of Starhaven,
      Kingdom of Trimaris

      On the web at <http://www.chateau-michel.org>
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