Re: 1st garb/tunic + surcoat
> "I got up from bed straightway, put on my stockings and washed myI believe there are also 12th century references to sewing up sleeves.
> hands. Then I drew a silver needle from a dainty little needlecase
> and threaded it. I had a desire to go out of the town to hear the
> sound of birds who, in that new season, were singing among the
> trees. I stitched up my sleeves in zigzag lacing and set out, quite
> alone, to enjoy myself listening to the birds..."
In the 12th century references it is normally assumed to be the upper
arm which is sewn up - the lower arm often has an elaborate daggy bit,
and besides you can make a tunic quite tight fitting below the elbow,
but above the elbow, you need room to be able to pull the sleeve on.
(and besides in the 12th century this is the simplest explaination for
tight fitting upper sleeves before the development of seeral crucial
tayloring skills such a set in sleeves and curved seams - well as far
as we know anyway)
However, I doubt I could sew up my upper arm sleeve. I'd even find
the lower arm tricky (especially my right arm) on my own even with
and I'm not sure I'd refer to that as zigzag lacing. But then again
surely there'd be some picture of laced up sleeves - zigzag lacing
makes me thing of lacing along the length of the sleeve.
Yes most illustrations might not show such a lacing (even as many
early to mid period ones don't show seams), but even in the 12ht
century there are several illustrations showing side lacing, are there
ones showing 13th century laced sleeves?
12th century reference to sewing up sleeves (cites other references):
Harris, Jennifer, 1998, "'Estroit vestu et menu cosu': evidence for
the construction of twelfth century dress" p89-103 in Owen-Crocker G,
R, Graham, T (eds) " Medieval art: recent perspectives, A memorial
tribute to C.R. Dodwell" Manchester university press
(who admittedly knows next to nothing about 13th century garb, but is
trying to study 12th century garb)