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Re: Rolled and other pleating puzzles

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  • neimhaille
    ... for ... *splutter* good grief really? Even JA s PoF books are nearly half that .. in NZ dollars, so like one third/quarter price! Fortunately I did find an
    Message 1 of 69 , Jan 4, 2002
      > "Blanche Payne" is actually "The History of Costume: Ancient
      > Mesopotamia Through the 20th Century" by Blanche Payne. After being
      > out of print for quite a while, it's back in print, but at the
      > shocking price of $133. It's a textbook used by a number of
      > colleges/universities, so you may be able to pick up a used copy
      for
      > around $100.

      *splutter* good grief really? Even JA's PoF books are nearly half
      that .. in NZ dollars, so like one third/quarter price!
      Fortunately I did find an old edition of that book, and made
      copious "notes", seeing as I cannot buy it for myself. And thanks for
      the full description of the book. I've been familiar with it for
      about a decade now so that I forget not everyone knows it:)

      > The pattern in the original copy of Blanche Payne's book (there are
      > patterns in the book similar to the ones in Janet Arnold's
      different
      > books) are based, from what I've read, on an existing set of bases
      in
      > the costume collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC.

      I'm sure my old "notes" from the book mentioned what patterns were
      for what photos in the book, but couldn't find that in the book I
      just recently read. I think though the bases are in the new edition,
      so you can at least see they were in fact contemporary.

      They are based on a circular shape too, if people are interested I
      could probably descibe them more fully, but I think Drea has a good
      written description about them.

      > > On all Cranach paintings with pleated skirts that I have seen in
      > the
      > > original, the pleats looked like deep (overlapping) knife pleats
      to
      > > me.
      > > There are some paintings from that period where the pleats in the
      > > skirts seem to go all the way down, I wondered whether those
      pleats
      > > might be sewn down like in the Shinrone gown

      I thought possibly too, but since collecting images:
      http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com (hope I have all the images I'm
      thinking of there)
      A lot of gowns that show those deep pleats are also seen on skirts
      that are held up or spread over laps of seated women, and they are
      not sewn down. Conjecture yes, but Cranach did seem to paint
      variations of the same dress... and then his brother painted a dress
      twice..

      A possibility is lead weights at the bottom of pleats (inner folds)
      to keep them in line, but allow movement of the pleats when walking
      etc. I'm familiar with weights in 18thC dress (to keep sleeve cuffs
      in place, I think Blanche Payne's book again, 1st ed.) Again, it's
      just a thought, and I don't know if there is any evidence in this
      era. Perhaps even the weight of the dress, and pressing them in shape
      as they were made (cleaned??) held them in check too.
      And then again maybe different makers had different techniques too!

      michaela
    • wodeford
      1. A Google search on bookbinding and conservation turned up a number of places one can get books restored:
      Message 69 of 69 , Jul 26, 2002
        1. A Google search on "bookbinding and conservation" turned up a
        number of places one can get books restored:
        http://dir.yahoo.com/Business_and_Economy/Shopping_and_Services/Books/
        Bookbinding_and_Conservation/

        2. Best wishes on the new baby!

        3. I'm going to try to day trip West Kingdom A&S tomorrow. Vittoria,
        save me a spot - your class sounds like fun.

        Jehanne
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