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Re: Rolled and other pleating puzzles

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  • dtjacobson
    Michaela-- Thanks! You ve given me some additional things to think about/research. 8-) I ve built/worn/been around so many German dresses in the past, I ve
    Message 1 of 69 , Jan 3, 2002
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      Michaela--

      Thanks! You've given me some additional things to think
      about/research. 8-) I've built/worn/been around so many German
      dresses in the past, I've never really thought about pinning down the
      historical provenance of cartridge pleats. Definitely something that
      I need to explore.

      I'm familiar with organ pleats, as I'm about to build the bases from
      Blanche Payne's book (BTW, the originals are at the Met, from what
      I've heard) for Jakob (my DH), but I think that technique would end
      up being a bit heavier/stiffer than what I need for my dress.

      After looking at the wonderfully clear detail of Breugel's "Peasant
      Dance" you have on your website, and at a detail of Aertsen's "Market
      Scene" (c. 1550), I'm starting to consider the possibility of knife
      pleats; all of the women's skirts in the paintings fit closer to the
      hip than in other paintings I've examined, but in the other
      paintings, the women were sitting, which can cause one's skirts
      to "bunch" a little bit at the waist/hip.

      I would love nothing more than to spend several months in Europe to
      really research this dress (and several other things) thoroughly; I'm
      sure there are probably existing garments in some little museum in
      the European equivalent of East Podunk. 8-D Maybe after I win the
      state lottery. ;-)

      Maud


      > Organ pleats are definatly period, there is a set of organ pleated
      > bases in Blanche Payne's book, they give the right outside look.
      For
      > a lot of german dresses, I would hesitate, as in paintings the
      pleats
      > open right near the waist, which couldn't happen with organ pleats.
      > I find with a circular skirt (absolutely period, see Mary of
      > Hungary's dress) with a wool lining (again see MoH) and box/knife
      > pleats give the exact look in paintings. Very rounded, able to open
      > near the top. I mention german as this was mentioned in the first
      > email, even if the dress is flemish..
      >
      > I have not seen any evidence for cartridge pleats in Northern
      Eruope.
      > Rolled pleats give the closest look in straight cut skirts, which
      are
      > also an uncommon occurance in paintings, most skirts are shaped,
      > which makes better use of fabric anyway. I take that from pictorial
      > and surviving garments and pattern books.
      > http://frazzledfrau.tripod.com for links to all my links .. up
      until
      > a month ago.. sigh, I still have a few to put up there.
      >
      > michaela
    • wodeford
      1. A Google search on bookbinding and conservation turned up a number of places one can get books restored:
      Message 69 of 69 , Jul 26, 2002
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        1. A Google search on "bookbinding and conservation" turned up a
        number of places one can get books restored:
        http://dir.yahoo.com/Business_and_Economy/Shopping_and_Services/Books/
        Bookbinding_and_Conservation/

        2. Best wishes on the new baby!

        3. I'm going to try to day trip West Kingdom A&S tomorrow. Vittoria,
        save me a spot - your class sounds like fun.

        Jehanne
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