Re: [Authentic_SCA] Rolled and other pleating puzzles
- At 06:33 PM 1/2/2002 +0000, you wrote:
Question: What is the historical provenance of rolled pleats? I'm
familiar with cartridge pleats, organ-pipe pleats, knife pleats, box
pleats, gathers, and ruffles, but the first time I read about rolled
pleats was on Drea Leeds' website and in her book.
Well, on her website, Drea says that there is no hard and fast evidence that they were used before Victorian times (19th c). She also says that they create the look found in so many 16th c portraits.
Honestly, I had to look up to see what you meant by rolled pleats - as my sewing vocabulary is not what it should be - and found that they are a type of pleat that I have done for certain 'looks' on some garments. This being said, when I was at the National Gallery a couple of weeks ago, one of the great mysteries we faced was how are the pleats in these portraits actually made? Due to the curve on the top.
I have no answer to your question, but give you this to think on, if it can be done to achieve a particular look now, it could have been done in the past. As it is something I have done in the past to create a certain look I am certain that someone at some point in time prior to myself also could have and probably did, think of the same method for creating a desired look.
With no hard evidence for rolled pleats - such as existing instructions, diagrams, or a piece of cloth containing such - I would say be safe and use a type of pleat known to exist; particularly if the garment you are creating is for an A&S. If you are trying to create a specific look and are not completely concerned with documentable evidence, use them if you need to.
You can also always write to Drea and ask what she has discovered on the subject. She likes answering questions. :^)
Hope this helped a little.
- 1. A Google search on "bookbinding and conservation" turned up a
number of places one can get books restored:
2. Best wishes on the new baby!
3. I'm going to try to day trip West Kingdom A&S tomorrow. Vittoria,
save me a spot - your class sounds like fun.