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58543Re: Kragelund assistance?

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  • tasha_medvedeva
    Dec 30, 2010
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      Firstly, there is nothing to indicate that those drawings are to scale. I would hope that if they were, they'd say so. Secondly, as you've seen, even if they *were* to scale, your friend clearly does not have the same proportions as for whom the original was made. These are bespoke garments we're talking about, not off the rack or made from commercial patterns. There's nothing even to indicate where those trapezoidal sleeve bits fell on the arm. Adjust the proportions of the pattern pieces to reflect reality, since you obviously can't do it the other way around.

      Use those diagrams as an indication of shape, bearing in mind that those are the shapes of the pieces as they were found, not their shape as they were cut. For example: those triangular gussets under the arm could be the corners cut off the trapezoidal parts -- it also makes sense to me that there was a triangle on either side of the arm, else you'd have a very weird shape to that underarm seam. The gores on the "skirt" part didn't start out with those curved edges; those are rectangles cut diagonally.

      Make what I call "paper dolls": small scale models of the pattern pieces (I usually use 2mm:1"). Draw a representation of the fabric at the same scale, and then move the pieces around, bearing in mind that you may have to unfold the fabric and lay it flat to get the most efficient cut. Don't forget to add seam allowance or ease, and mark your pattern pieces, else you might end up using a sleeve for gores. Learn from my mistakes. (I pin on a slip of paper with the name of the piece. That way I can do mass cutting sessions and put the pieces in giant ziploc bags, then do assembly later.)

      Hope that helps!

      Tasha

      --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "Zhara" <zhara8@...> wrote:
      >
      > Greetings. Hoping to tap the collective wisdom of the group.
      >
      > I have pulled the standard exploded diagram of the Kragelund tunic
      >
      > here,
      >
      > http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/garments/Kragelund/Kragelund.html
      >
      > and here,
      >
      > http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/kraglund.html
      >
      > and printed it onto graph paper, and then planned to put it to fabric.
      >
      > The problem is that I fear that the diagram is not to scale. In order to get a chest circumfrence of 48", I have a garment that dangles mid-shin on my friend who has requested it. We're pretty sure that's a bit too long, but I'd like to hear from the experts. In any case, trimming it to length is easy enough, but scaling it to fit a 48" chest also results with armhole openings of nearly 30 inches around!
      >
      > The other issue plaguing me is the huge amount of wasted fabric that results, no matter how many cutting configurations I've attempted. The historical logic of making the most efficient use of the yardage is not turning up.
      >
      > So, I am your student; what Kragelund tunic info can be shared?
      >
      > Kindest Regards,
      > thl Z.
      >
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