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47376Moorish or Ecclesiastic? (was linings)

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  • dona_violante
    Sep 8, 2004
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      > The one aspect of the cut that is more reminiscent of
      > Middle Eastern influences is the way the side panels attach
      > to the sleeve (or, to put it another way, having the sleeves
      > in to the central panel, while the the top of the side gussets
      > extends out horizontally to form the sleeve setting, rather than
      > being much more tapered at the top). I'm explaining this badly,
      > afraid.

      I do understand what you're talking about; the other albs I've seen,
      those side gores end just below the sleeves, rather than attaching
      to the sleeves the way this one does.

      There is a strong similarity between Moorish garments and
      ecclesiastical garments in miniatures as well. Looking at the
      miniatures in the Cantigas de Santa Maria, I was amazed at the
      extent to which they looked alike, including fabric patterns/colors
      (in as much as you can tell, anyway), overall cut, and placement of
      the (often golden) decoration at the neck and sleeves. There are
      some details which are different; the eccl. garments are frequently
      shorter, with short side slits, under which another white gown is

      Anyway, my current guess is that in this particular case, the
      garment *was* made by Moorish hands, and then was adapted (narrowed
      sleeves and that panel at the center back) to make it more
      appropriate for ecclesiastical use.

      The world may never know!

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