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47376Moorish or Ecclesiastic? (was linings)

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  • dona_violante
    Sep 8, 2004
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      > The one aspect of the cut that is more reminiscent of
      > Middle Eastern influences is the way the side panels attach
      partially
      > to the sleeve (or, to put it another way, having the sleeves
      extend
      > in to the central panel, while the the top of the side gussets
      > extends out horizontally to form the sleeve setting, rather than
      > being much more tapered at the top). I'm explaining this badly,
      I'm
      > afraid.

      I do understand what you're talking about; the other albs I've seen,
      those side gores end just below the sleeves, rather than attaching
      to the sleeves the way this one does.

      There is a strong similarity between Moorish garments and
      ecclesiastical garments in miniatures as well. Looking at the
      miniatures in the Cantigas de Santa Maria, I was amazed at the
      extent to which they looked alike, including fabric patterns/colors
      (in as much as you can tell, anyway), overall cut, and placement of
      the (often golden) decoration at the neck and sleeves. There are
      some details which are different; the eccl. garments are frequently
      shorter, with short side slits, under which another white gown is
      visible.

      Anyway, my current guess is that in this particular case, the
      garment *was* made by Moorish hands, and then was adapted (narrowed
      sleeves and that panel at the center back) to make it more
      appropriate for ecclesiastical use.

      The world may never know!

      Cheers,
      Violante
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