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47348[Authentic_SCA] Re: linings (was: Digest Number 2590)

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  • Heather Rose Jones
    Sep 3, 2004
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      At 12:00 PM +0000 9/2/04, dona_violante wrote:
      > > Ah, I do have this one. I was just confused by the description
      >> "Moorish", given that I have it cataloged among ecclesiastical
      >> vestments (which it is by function, and to some extent by design).
      >
      >Dodds asserts that the tunic is of "wholly Muslim manufacture",
      >though I don't know what she's basing that on.


      It's possible that she's referring specifically to the fabric, rather
      than necessarily to the cut and decoration styles. (I'm all too
      familiar with scholars who are only interested in the textiles and
      now in what was _made_ with them.)


      > I do know, however,
      >that when I make tunics for myself based on the same proportions and
      >cut, I end up with a garment which looks remarkably like the
      >miniatures from the 13th century. For instance, the brocaded card
      >weaving on the shoulder seams actually falls at the upper arm - the
      >exact same place where tiraz are shown in the Bayad wa Riyad, the
      >Cantigas de Santa Maria, and the Book of Games.

      The overall cut style is extremely similar to a number of 13th c.
      albs from various locations in western Europe, most in linen, but
      some in silk like this one. The placement of the decorative bands on
      the shoulder seams is quite typical of ecclesiastic garments of this
      era (and echoes decorative clavii of an earlier period). The use of
      a wide decorative panel that only covers the central portion of the
      garment (and is missing at the sides) is also quite typical of ca.
      13th c. albs. The one aspect of the cut that is more reminiscent of
      Middle Eastern influences is the way the side panels attach partially
      to the sleeve (or, to put it another way, having the sleeves extend
      in to the central panel, while the the top of the side gussets
      extends out horizontally to form the sleeve setting, rather than
      being much more tapered at the top). I'm explaining this badly, I'm
      afraid. This aspect of the cut isn't _definitively_ Middle Eastern,
      but it's the one feature of the construction that reaches in that
      direction.

      After I finish polishing up the fabric socks article, I really need
      to get around to the project of analyzing the corpus of 13th c. albs
      and similar garments.

      Tangwystyl
      --
      ****
      Heather Rose Jones
      heather.jones@...
      ****
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