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14786Re: 12th night dress?

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  • unclrashid@aol.com
    Dec 1, 2001
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      --- In Authentic_SCA@y..., Ciorstan <ciorstan@m...> wrote:
      > Anyone have any comments???
      > Yes. As a rule, Period Patterns are drafted with a high, tight
      > that doesn't necessarily match up to the body of the garment even
      with a
      > LOT of easing, and their directions suck loudly (sorry, I'm a native
      > Caidiot, and most Period Patterns drive me deep into Native Dialect,
      > Your Rad Dude-ette-ness, ohmigawd!). Don't use the sleeve pieces
      > as given, both PP and the Rocking Horse Farm houp patterns are off
      > cut in the sleeve cap area.
      > Without a photo, it's hard to describe the proper cut for the sleeve
      > (Baroness Cynthia's website is down right now and I don't recall if
      > gives a diagram..........

      All the stuff I snipped here was an excellent description of the
      Houppelende sleeve issue!

      I would like to add my two cents worth also.... it is confusing
      enough that sometimes I just make a muslin mockup and cut it with
      about 12 inches extra length on the sleeve cap end to allow for
      adjustments. Then I pin fit the sleeve cap making sure the "bell"
      or "trumpet" portion of the sleeve is oriented correctly. (you have
      to sit down and use either a fork or pen to make sure the sleeve does
      not pull at some weird angle) This usually results in the sleeve cap
      being twisted about 30 degrees from where you would have expected
      it. This makes a pattern such that you have to cut you left and
      right sleeves with the pattern flipped over from one to the next.

      This technique works best with a rather full sleeve. It does not
      work quite so well with the type of sleeve that is very fitted on the
      upper arm and then flares out from the elbow.

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