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Re: [AtkinBoats] Re: I'm looking for any advice about the Russell R. design

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  • jkohnen@boat-links.com
    There have been lots of successful designs with motor wells, the Bartender of the Northwest coast and the Simmons Sea Skiff Back East come to mind:
    Message 1 of 6 , Jan 16, 2005
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      There have been lots of successful designs with motor wells, the Bartender
      of the Northwest coast and the Simmons Sea Skiff Back East come to mind:

      http://www.bartenderboats.com/

      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bartenderboat/

      http://www.angelfire.com/nc3/davecarnell/#Simmons

      http://www.capefearmuseum.com/simmons_skiffs.htm

      And a couple of friends of mine have had real good luck with the outboard
      wells they've put into their flat-bottom skiffs. There's nothing wrong with
      wells, they just have to be done right. Ideally, you should have the motor
      on hand before you start building the well, which should be made to fit. You
      want the cutout in the bottom to be big enough so the motor can kick up when
      turned, but without much to spare. Likewise with the cutout in the transom
      -- high enough to fully tilt the motor, but not much higher than that.

      On Tue, 04 Jan 2005 05:50:52 -0000, Lewis wrote:
      > ...
      > I have owned, modified and rebuilt an 18 foot shallow V plywood skiff
      > powered by a 40 HP 2 stroke in a well.
      > ...
      > It was a fun boat, but I will never have another motor in a well
      > unless it is small enough to lift out by myself. I could not change
      > the tilt angle without pulling the motor. As built, the well IMO was
      > too far forward and the boat lost too much load bearing aft. Also, the
      > "shallow water" feature would not work because the prop would hit the
      > sides of the well. Moving the well aft helped these problems some, but
      > then the motor could not tilt up enough to lock in position and I
      > didn't want to enlarge the well opening in the transom.
      > ...

      --
      John <jkohnen@...>
      http://www.boat-links.com/
      Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.
      <Mark Twain>
    • jkohnen@boat-links.com
      Another of my favorites! To get the designed top speed, Russel R. has to be built light. If you use heavier, stronger wood than the oak and cedar specified you
      Message 2 of 6 , Jan 16, 2005
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        Another of my favorites! To get the designed top speed, Russel R. has to be
        built light. If you use heavier, stronger wood than the oak and cedar
        specified you can trim the scantlings a bit. The best thing to do would be
        to ask the local boatbuilders what they use. You'll have to take extra pains
        to make any cabin, or other additions, light. Strip-planking a flat-sided
        skiff seems pretty silly, and tedious, and carvel planking would be too
        heavy. Lapstrake isn't reaaly all that difficult, but if you don't want to
        try it batten-seam construction would be almost as light, and probably about
        the same amount of work. Except for some of the interior details and
        decking, Russell R. is a simple flat-bottom skiff, with a cross-planked
        bottom and no bottom frames. You can do it! <g>

        For a light, fast boat like Russell R. you don't want the high thrust
        version of the Yamaha. There's already a watertight slop well around the
        motor well in the plans. The covered motor well is one of the things I like
        most about Russell R. I don't particularly like listening to outboards. :ob

        On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 07:15:22 -0000, John D wrote:
        >
        > I'm considering the Russell R. as a design I can build for myself in
        > the Pantanal region of Brasil. I have tried to walk myself through
        > it and even though I have never built a boat I think I can do this
        > one. I would make it crossplanked on the bottom and probably strip
        > plank the sides instead of lapstrake (which I'm pretty sure would
        > defeat me).
        > ...
        > I would have preferred the Rosdave design but if Russel R. works as
        > described it would be the better boat for the job and much more
        > likely to be a DIY success for me. I would use a 15 HP outboard
        > motor, probably a Yamaha. If the high thrust version with larger
        > prop is available, would it be more desirable?
        >
        > The available woods will probably be much denser and heavier than the
        > white cedar specified so I was thinking of reducing the plank
        > scantlings a bit. I also want a self draining shelf or motorwell
        > surrounding the open well the outboard drops into. This should
        > reinforce the open well and give a place to flop fish for cleaning,
        > etc. and supply a dry place for a battery if I have electric
        > charge/start. The lids over the outboard will disappear.
        >
        > I plan to build a cabin like one used by the Campjon by Jim Micalak
        > which will also add weight.
        >
        > Everything turns on the postulated speed of 17 miles an hour. I'm
        > hoping a 15 HP outboard will still deliver that even if the boat is
        > heavier.
        > ...

        --
        John <jkohnen@...>
        http://www.boat-links.com/
        Man does not live by words alone, despite the fact that he
        sometimes has to eat them. <Adlai Stevenson>
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