RE: [AtkinBoats] Re: A retirement goal
Welcome, Robert, to the list. I have a Florence Oakland built about 25 years ago. I have replaced a solid mainmast as of two years ago, and am replacing the foremast this winter, both using hollow construction with bird’s mouth joints. Taking the weight out of the rig definitely helps. I have been actively considering using a topsail on the main in very light air, as the rigging and tophamper forward definitely cause lee helm in light air. For that reason, my thought is that a topsail on the foremast would be counter-productive in that situation. I would not consider using a topsail in anything other than light air. My boat, Charlene, has not had the inside ballast of 300 Lbs. to this point, but I am putting it in. With that and the hollow masts I am hoping she will stiffen-up some. I would not recommend hanging any more outside ballast on the existing scantlings. The original builder did that on my boat when repairing the keel, and it caused no end of problems structurally. You can really only get so much balance from 3’ draft. She already has 300 sq. ft. of sail on a 20 ft. waterline.
I also considered extending the cabin, but decided to put in two lockers up by the cabin bulkhead, but still in the cockpit, that house a large cooler on one side and food storage and a single burner stove on the other. I connected the seats to the lockers. The stove was only ever meant to be used in port, with a cockpit tent. I agree that the cockpit is large and poses a bit of a threat if a large sea were taken aboard. If I were constructing her new, I would make the seats completely as storage and make the well only the size of the cockpit between the seats. I have increased the drains to 1”, which definitely helps.
She sounds like she was well-built with excellent materials. I hope she gives you as much joy as has mine. Please do post some pictures.
this is my first post.
My Florence Oakland, Marie Sophie, waas built in Bar creek Boatyard, Malpas Truro Cornwall UK, by Paul Gartside when he was at Truro School, at the same time as me.
She was built between 1968 and 1971, of white seraya, carvel, on seam battens, with an english oak keel. Frames and transom are Keruing.The decks have delaminated and require replacing, all spars are intact and are Douglas fir.
Apparrently she sails very well, despite the departure from the official construction.
I intend to extend the cabin to aft of the main mast, reducing the size of the cockpit, and make it self draining.
She is set up for a port wing engine ,and I shall fit a contemporary Petter AV2WM with 2:1 reduction, and corresponding ballast on the starboard side.
The extra ballast, along with hollowed spars, should allow the use of topsails.
If anybody knows of a Florence Oakland with tops, could they let me know (with photos} please
If anyone would like photos- let me know
All the best
--- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, <wmeparker@...> wrote:
> Hi All,
> The amateur builder of my Florence Oakland took 5 years to build her, before and after retirement. One significant difference might be that he did traditional rigging, and made all the blocks and deadeyes himself, including rope strops and other marlinspike work. If you buy fittings, you could probably get it done in the five years even on a bigger boat. The real time consumption is in interior joinerwork.
> ---- pringni_konta@... wrote:
> > Greetings. I am new to the group, having drooled over the Island Princess for more years than a care to admit. A few questions for the group: can this boat feasibly be built by an amateur (I've built several houses, but never a boat), and if so, is a five year plan reasonable? It is not one that is astericked for plywood construction, but the hard chine makes it look like it could be. Is it? And finally, how much space do I need. I am looking at a 40x24 building, 12 ' high. I guess a related question; anyone have one for sale? Thanks.