Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: Rowing skiff GEORGE

Expand Messages
  • Keven
    ... Hello Jim, Thanks. Rational. Hmmmm... I am designer of model aeroplanes and boats for 37 years. I have also built a small dinghy - many years ago - which
    Message 1 of 12 , Mar 16, 2011
    • 0 Attachment
      --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "jim.bagley@..." <jim.bagley@...> wrote:
      >
      > Thank you both for your comments. It may sound a bit silly but I do feel better about the modifications now.
      > Kevin , you have an interesting and I must say very rational way of looking at things.
      > (snip)

      Hello Jim,

      Thanks.
      Rational. Hmmmm...
      I am designer of model aeroplanes and boats for 37 years.
      I have also built a small dinghy - many years ago - which I used to 'rescue' model boats.
      Model aeroplanes NEED to be equally as airworthy as the full size - so structure is very important.

      The fore-and-aft battens...
      As seen in this picture - open in a new tab.
      http://www.boat-links.com/Atkinco/Photos/George/GeorgeMystic2008.jpg

      Consider this.
      Where battens are fitted into the hull on the floor of a small boat, they are in compression - due to the gentle curve of the hull bottom.
      If you place those battens on the outside surface of the hull bottom - they will be in tension.

      As well as adding stiffness and covering seams - the battens provide 'edges' - something for your feet to catch on when moving around the boat.

      Beaching runners/battens
      Fitted to the bottom surface of a ply bottom - the beaching runners (battens by another name) will stiffen the boat considerably - and help the boat track straight... but you must consider the floor inside again.

      It is understood that you require the bottom of the boat to be clear - so you are better able to move around it with your condition.
      I have a similar condition - my spine is damaged - so I do understand.

      However, you must realise that there is a chance of slipping on the flat, wet floor of a boat, which must taken into account.
      An anti-slip coating, I would think ?

      Were you thinking of a hull bottom from a single piece of ply cut to shape ?
      (I may have missed that)

      Keven.
    • jim.bagley@ymail.com
      Kevin , The three full length 3/4 x 2 oak beaching runners will be fastened under the 1/2 marine plywood bottom. I will re-consider adding internal battens
      Message 2 of 12 , Mar 16, 2011
      • 0 Attachment
        Kevin , The three full length 3/4"x 2" oak beaching runners will be fastened under the 1/2" marine plywood bottom. I will re-consider adding internal battens to top of floor after launching and testing. The bottom ply will be one piece approx. 15 ft scarfed 8:1 and glued with epoxy and then glued to the bottom chines. I am using Thomas Hill's method of construction which results in an elaborate fixture but it should pay off in a much simpler build such as being able to trace the bottom outline from the bottom chines which will be already attached to the sides. Unfortunately it will require two 4'x 8' sheets for the bottom with a lot of waste left over. ( This makes me consider laminating two 1/2" plywood pieces to make a 1" thick transom instead of using 3/4" oak plank. I would glue some 1"x1" oak strips all around the edges of the transom to screw the side strakes and bottom into.) I am still looking for the 3/4 transom oak plank and if I find it I will use it.
        I will add four small 6" wide braces on the floor for the rowers to push their feet against. (I forget what you call those things)

        Painting the floor with an anti-slip coating is a great idea, but I will need to find something that is better than just putting sand in the final coat of paint. That is not comfortable for small children with bare feet.
        Thanks for your sharing your expertise. Maybe after the boat and ores are completed and successfully launched we can discuss the second part of the project: adding a small electric motor mounted on a rudder with rope steering and batteries mounted under the seats with the flotation. But one thing at a time.
        Back to mounting those stations.
        Thanks for your interest.
        Jim
      • John Almberg
        ... Stretchers.
        Message 3 of 12 , Mar 16, 2011
        • 0 Attachment
          jim.bagley@... wrote:
           


          I will add four small 6" wide braces on the floor for the rowers to push their feet against. (I forget what you call those things)

          Stretchers.

        • deceiverbob99
          I have also recently purchased plans for George. The construction details for the plywood version show only the keel they do not show the internal battens as
          Message 4 of 12 , Mar 16, 2011
          • 0 Attachment
            I have also recently purchased plans for George. The construction details for the plywood version show only the keel they do not show the
            internal battens as these install over the seams of the bottom planking on the traditionally built version. According to an old post in here
            George is a revised Ration with a little more sheer and a little more flare.
          • John Kohnen
            A fore-and-aft planked bottom with batten seams like George s will stay tight better when dried out on a trailer than a cross-planked bottom, and maybe that s
            Message 5 of 12 , Mar 16, 2011
            • 0 Attachment
              A fore-and-aft planked bottom with batten seams like George's will stay
              tight better when dried out on a trailer than a cross-planked bottom, and
              maybe that's why the Atkin's chose that construction for ration and
              George, but fore-and-aft planking requires all those full frames, and
              bottom frames are a nuisance in a flat-bottom boat. :o( If I were to build
              George I'd throw away _all of_ the full frames and use the cross-planked
              building method, but with a plywood bottom, laying the plywood sheets
              crosswise so their greatest stiffness is athwartships, like traditional
              cross-planking. The only frames would be side frames and an inside keel
              (You probably wouldn't even need that if you use 1/2" ply for the
              bottom!). Glued lapstrake plywood would be just fine for the sides. I'd
              use 1/4" ply for the sides and 3/8" on the bottom. The side frames are
              installed perpendicular to the curve of the sides, so no beveling is
              necessary. Don't pay any attention to drawings in the catalog that show
              them otherwise. You can probably get enough of an idea about cross-planked
              skiff construction to build your boat from the illustrations in the online
              catalog. Feel free to email me privately for advice.

              Pat Patteson's Scandal was built in the cross-planked manner using plywood:

              http://www.boat-links.com/Atkinco/Oar/Scandal.html

              Some other examples can be found in the catalog, such as:

              http://www.boat-links.com/Atkinco/Oar/Sprite.html

              http://www.boat-links.com/Atkinco/Oar/CGJunior.html

              and more...

              Good luck with your project! I'm sure you'll be happy with the boat.

              On Mon, 14 Mar 2011 19:43:16 -0700, jim b wrote:

              > Building George
              > ...
              > John Atkin designed the flat bottom rowboat called George. The lines
              > are beautiful and the dimensions are perfect to float two Adults and two
              > children down some quiet rivers with one or two people rowing. Look all
              > you want you will not find plans for anything close to it. John Atkin
              > said on the plans produced in 1992 that the boat could be built either
              > traditionally using 3 strakes of 1/2 " white cedar per side and a flat
              > rocker bottom of 5 strakes of 3/4" cedar each 7-1,/2 " wide with seam
              > battens of 3/8" x 2" White oak above and three 3/4" x 2" white oak
              > runners under full length. There are seven sets of 3/4" x 2"side frames
              > joined with a bottom frame. The Chines , inwales and seat risers are
              > 3/4" x2" and everything is oak. You could drive a truck over this boat
              > and still use it if you could pick up its weight.
              > OR he said it could be built out of 1/4" marine plywood for both the
              > bottom and sides in flat panels and everything else remained the same.
              > I need a boat that will live on a trailer and not leak when it enters
              > the water so I have chosen plywood. It is my opinion that flat panel
              > sides would spoil the look of the boat and I would prefer to build the
              > sides using epoxy-glued 1/4" marine plywood lapstrake that would also be
              > stronger than flat panel. Also I have a condition that causes me to drag
              > one leg and the last thing I need are all those 2" high bottom frames
              > running across the boat. I therefore plan to use 1/2" marine plywood on
              > the bottom to strengthen and maintain centre of gravity and allow me to
              > delete 4 or 5 bottom frames. I will keep the ones positioned under the
              > seats and keep all the side frames and extend them out slightly onto the
              > bottom....


              --
              John (jkohnen@...)
              No drug, not even alcohol, causes the fundamental ills of
              society. If we're looking for the source of our troubles, we
              shouldn't test people for drugs, we should test them for
              stupidity, ignorance, greed and love of power. (P.J. O'Rourke)
            • John Kohnen
              Bless you, Jim! You re off to a good start by not getting impatient and skipping the lofting. :o) ... -- John (jkohnen@boat-links.com) They that can give up
              Message 6 of 12 , Mar 16, 2011
              • 0 Attachment
                Bless you, Jim! You're off to a good start by not getting impatient and
                skipping the lofting. :o)

                On Tue, 15 Mar 2011 20:35:42 -0700, jim b wrote:

                > ...
                > By the way all the offset table dimensions for George fair perfectly on
                > the full size lofting.
                > ...


                --
                John (jkohnen@...)
                They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
                temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. (Benjamin
                Franklin)
              Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.