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RE: [AtkinBoats] Re: Antiquity

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  • Alan Boman
    Phil, I m building a River Belle and have chosen to go the plywood/epoxy route instead of diagonal planking on frames. The flat bottom panel is two layers of
    Message 1 of 9 , Jul 12, 2009
      Phil,



      I'm building a "River Belle" and have chosen to go the plywood/epoxy route
      instead of diagonal planking on frames.



      The flat bottom panel is two layers of 12mm and the remainder of the hull
      below the chine is two layers of 9mm. Above the chine has been changed to a
      curved profile and is built Lapstrake style as a single layer of 12mm planks
      about 275mm wide.



      The plywood is Hoop Pine Marine Ply to Australian Standard 2272 which has a
      stress rating of F17.



      The hull shape sits very nicely in plywood and there are no compound curves
      that I have found. It is not in the water yet, but has been deemed to be "a
      very solid beast" by my shipwright friend who is supervising the project.



      Alan









      From: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com] On
      Behalf Of Sgt Sak
      Sent: Monday, 13 July 2009 12:13 AM
      To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Antiquity








      I really enjoyed the photo's thank you for taking the time to post them. I
      do have a question on how you attached the bottom of the boat to the frames
      and what you used for framing material. I have the plans for River Belle but
      am concerned about the materials specified in the construction, mainly oak
      frames, I have a source for local oak but not sure I want to use it in
      building a boat(most of it is not clear).

      What I was thinking about doing was using multiple layers of ply for the
      bottom and ply sistered with a good clear hem-fir. The other idea was to
      follow a Devlin style of construction.

      Currently I am still building the garage where I will build the boat(s)
      (can't have just one boat, lol) so I have some time to work this out.
      Regards
      Phil





      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Jon & Wanda(Tink)
      Alan photos would be real nice to see. Jon
      Message 2 of 9 , Jul 13, 2009
        Alan photos would be real nice to see.

        Jon

        --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Boman" <alan@...> wrote:
        >
        > Phil,
        >
        >
        >
        > I'm building a "River Belle" and have chosen to go the plywood/epoxy route
        > instead of diagonal planking on frames.
        >
        >
        >
        > The flat bottom panel is two layers of 12mm and the remainder of the hull
        > below the chine is two layers of 9mm. Above the chine has been changed to a
        > curved profile and is built Lapstrake style as a single layer of 12mm planks
        > about 275mm wide.
        >
        >
        >
        > The plywood is Hoop Pine Marine Ply to Australian Standard 2272 which has a
        > stress rating of F17.
        >
        >
        >
        > The hull shape sits very nicely in plywood and there are no compound curves
        > that I have found. It is not in the water yet, but has been deemed to be "a
        > very solid beast" by my shipwright friend who is supervising the project.
        >
        >
        >
        > Alan
      • Alan Boman
        Jon - I have uploaded some photos on to the Group site (link below), I also have a web site with more at http://riverbelle.boman.biz Alan Visit
        Message 3 of 9 , Jul 13, 2009
          Jon - I have uploaded some photos on to the Group site (link below), I also
          have a web site with more at http://riverbelle.boman.biz



          Alan



          Visit
          <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AtkinBoats;_ylc=X3oDMTJmZjUwNjQ5BF9TAzk3MzU5N
          zE0BGdycElkAzExNzc5NzA3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTg4NDA5MARzZWMDdnRsBHNsawN2Z2hwBHN0a
          W1lAzEyNDc1MzU0ODE-> Your Group



          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Sgt Sak
          Alan, Have you posted pictures? I would be very interested to see how you put it together. I put the hull lines into a CAD program and pulled off the surface
          Message 4 of 9 , Jul 14, 2009
            Alan,
            Have you posted pictures? I would be very interested to see how you put it together. I put the hull lines into a CAD program and pulled off the surface sections from there. I am planing on building a model of her first before I start on the real thing. I intend to raise the forecastle a bit and use that area for a sleeping area.

            My only other issue is what engine to use, I can't find a weight on the Kermath engine that was specified, I could go with a diesel but will more than likely use a ford 6cyl 4.9 because they are cheap and indestructible(almost). My worry is having enough weight to balance out the boat for proper performance of the tunnel.
            Regards
            Phil


            > I'm building a "River Belle" and have chosen to go the plywood/epoxy route
            > instead of diagonal planking on frames.
          • Alan Boman
            Phil, Yes, I have put some pictures in the Photos area at the Group s site. Alternatively, you can look at my web site at http://riverbelle.boman.biz I built
            Message 5 of 9 , Jul 15, 2009
              Phil,



              Yes, I have put some pictures in the Photos area at the Group's site.
              Alternatively, you can look at my web site at http://riverbelle.boman.biz



              I built several 1/10 scale models from 3mm MDF and 0.6mm modeller's marine
              ply and it was a very useful exercise, especially since I was changing from
              flat hull sides to curved.



              I raised the sheer in the bow as well for the same reasons, and I found that
              it was too narrow for a Queen sized bed (5'6") unless you moved it well aft
              and started wasting space. Ultimately, I moved the accommodation to the
              stern and I am going to use the bow as the galley.



              I think you're right about the engine, anything around 100hp should be
              fine; I'm using a 149 GM six cylinder with a Borg Warner Velvet Drive.



              The weight, or lack of it, is going to be a problem I suspect. Using modern
              construction methods will make the boat much too light and the chine at the
              transom is only in the water by about 35mm anyway. If the chine breaks
              clear of the surface it will dump the water out of the tunnel which will
              make for a bumpy ride. The displacement at Atkin's DWL is 4.22 tonnes so I
              am proposing to simply mark the required water line on the hull and then
              ballast as necessary.



              Cheers



              Alan



              From: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com] On
              Behalf Of Sgt Sak
              Sent: Tuesday, 14 July 2009 11:45 PM
              To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Antiquity








              Alan,
              Have you posted pictures? I would be very interested to see how you put it
              together. I put the hull lines into a CAD program and pulled off the surface
              sections from there. I am planing on building a model of her first before I
              start on the real thing. I intend to raise the forecastle a bit and use that
              area for a sleeping area.

              My only other issue is what engine to use, I can't find a weight on the
              Kermath engine that was specified, I could go with a diesel but will more
              than likely use a ford 6cyl 4.9 because they are cheap and
              indestructible(almost). My worry is having enough weight to balance out the
              boat for proper performance of the tunnel.
              Regards
              Phil

              > I'm building a "River Belle" and have chosen to go the plywood/epoxy route
              > instead of diagonal planking on frames.





              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Sgt Sak
              Alan, The funny part is I already had your site bookmarked, it s hell getting old. About the drive set up, I thought about using a belt drive system. There are
              Message 6 of 9 , Jul 16, 2009
                Alan,
                The funny part is I already had your site bookmarked, it's hell getting old.

                About the drive set up, I thought about using a belt drive system. There are several in use in Cmdr Robert Bebe's original "Voyaging Under Power" for far larger and higher horsepower yachts. The idea is to have a "breakaway" area in the drive train that will hopefully stall before wrecking anything important if a solid object is sucked into the prop. The engine could sit lower and along the center line and still keep the prop shaft at the specified angle.

                Along that line what about a controllable pitch prop? I am not sure of the cost of one like a Hundested but it would be handy to be able to reverse direction without shifting and to be able to adjust RPM and thrust.

                One of the Rescue Minor owners mentioned weed build up between the rudder and rudder strap. What if the strap were floating, with a small gap between the rudder post and strap. It would still deflect larger objects but hopefully allow weeds and rope to pass through.
                Regards
                Phil
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