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Atkins Small Tunnel Hull Proformance Data

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  • windmill4048
    Someone asked about the performance of Shoals runner. It s very similar to Rescue Minor. Here s what I know from operating the Rescue Minor Antiquity (see
    Message 1 of 9 , Jul 11, 2009
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      Someone asked about the performance of Shoals runner. It's very similar to Rescue Minor. Here's what I know from operating the Rescue Minor Antiquity (see pics on Atkin's site) for almost 200 hours:

      Power - Beta 20 Hp
      Cruise - 10 kts @ 2,300 RPM
      Fuel Consumption @ cruise - .5 to .6 GPH
      Top Speed - 19 kts

      The boat is a little under powered with the 20 hp. I'd use the Beta 25 if I were building the boat today.

      This boat was built with the metal rudder strap or shoe as designed. I recommend not using the shoe as the boat picks up weed like a hay rake (unlike White's boat with no shoe).

      Weight control is very, very important! Keep it as low as possible, 600 pounds wet and with gear is a good goal
    • Sgt Sak
      I really enjoyed the photo s thank you for taking the time to post them. I do have a question on how you attached the bottom of the boat to the frames and what
      Message 2 of 9 , Jul 12, 2009
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        I really enjoyed the photo's thank you for taking the time to post them. I do have a question on how you attached the bottom of the boat to the frames and what you used for framing material. I have the plans for River Belle but am concerned about the materials specified in the construction, mainly oak frames, I have a source for local oak but not sure I want to use it in building a boat(most of it is not clear).

        What I was thinking about doing was using multiple layers of ply for the bottom and ply sistered with a good clear hem-fir. The other idea was to follow a Devlin style of construction.

        Currently I am still building the garage where I will build the boat(s) (can't have just one boat, lol) so I have some time to work this out.
        Regards
        Phil
      • Jon & Wanda(Tink)
        Phil Iwould not use what is called Hem-fir use only KD CVG fir from a real lumber yard. Hem-fir is a grade spcies that alows hemloc and fir to be mixed
        Message 3 of 9 , Jul 12, 2009
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          Phil Iwould not use what is called Hem-fir use only KD CVG fir from a real lumber yard. Hem-fir is a grade spcies that alows hemloc and fir to be mixed togather or all of eather. KD is seconed to seasoned lumber needs to be sanded befor gluing to losten the grain and plainer burn. Rib lumber needs to be knot free and dry or it will shrink and twist causing glue joints to be stressed or break. Atkins says no not having been speced for ply but should work with proper rib and scantling spacing.

          Jon

          --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Sgt Sak" <newbarndesign@...> wrote:
          >
          > I really enjoyed the photo's thank you for taking the time to post them. I do have a question on how you attached the bottom of the boat to the frames and what you used for framing material. I have the plans for River Belle but am concerned about the materials specified in the construction, mainly oak frames, I have a source for local oak but not sure I want to use it in building a boat(most of it is not clear).
          >
          > What I was thinking about doing was using multiple layers of ply for the bottom and ply sistered with a good clear hem-fir. The other idea was to follow a Devlin style of construction.
          >
          > Currently I am still building the garage where I will build the boat(s) (can't have just one boat, lol) so I have some time to work this out.
          > Regards
          > Phil
          >
        • Alan Boman
          Phil, I m building a River Belle and have chosen to go the plywood/epoxy route instead of diagonal planking on frames. The flat bottom panel is two layers of
          Message 4 of 9 , Jul 12, 2009
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            Phil,



            I'm building a "River Belle" and have chosen to go the plywood/epoxy route
            instead of diagonal planking on frames.



            The flat bottom panel is two layers of 12mm and the remainder of the hull
            below the chine is two layers of 9mm. Above the chine has been changed to a
            curved profile and is built Lapstrake style as a single layer of 12mm planks
            about 275mm wide.



            The plywood is Hoop Pine Marine Ply to Australian Standard 2272 which has a
            stress rating of F17.



            The hull shape sits very nicely in plywood and there are no compound curves
            that I have found. It is not in the water yet, but has been deemed to be "a
            very solid beast" by my shipwright friend who is supervising the project.



            Alan









            From: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com] On
            Behalf Of Sgt Sak
            Sent: Monday, 13 July 2009 12:13 AM
            To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Antiquity








            I really enjoyed the photo's thank you for taking the time to post them. I
            do have a question on how you attached the bottom of the boat to the frames
            and what you used for framing material. I have the plans for River Belle but
            am concerned about the materials specified in the construction, mainly oak
            frames, I have a source for local oak but not sure I want to use it in
            building a boat(most of it is not clear).

            What I was thinking about doing was using multiple layers of ply for the
            bottom and ply sistered with a good clear hem-fir. The other idea was to
            follow a Devlin style of construction.

            Currently I am still building the garage where I will build the boat(s)
            (can't have just one boat, lol) so I have some time to work this out.
            Regards
            Phil





            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Jon & Wanda(Tink)
            Alan photos would be real nice to see. Jon
            Message 5 of 9 , Jul 13, 2009
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              Alan photos would be real nice to see.

              Jon

              --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Boman" <alan@...> wrote:
              >
              > Phil,
              >
              >
              >
              > I'm building a "River Belle" and have chosen to go the plywood/epoxy route
              > instead of diagonal planking on frames.
              >
              >
              >
              > The flat bottom panel is two layers of 12mm and the remainder of the hull
              > below the chine is two layers of 9mm. Above the chine has been changed to a
              > curved profile and is built Lapstrake style as a single layer of 12mm planks
              > about 275mm wide.
              >
              >
              >
              > The plywood is Hoop Pine Marine Ply to Australian Standard 2272 which has a
              > stress rating of F17.
              >
              >
              >
              > The hull shape sits very nicely in plywood and there are no compound curves
              > that I have found. It is not in the water yet, but has been deemed to be "a
              > very solid beast" by my shipwright friend who is supervising the project.
              >
              >
              >
              > Alan
            • Alan Boman
              Jon - I have uploaded some photos on to the Group site (link below), I also have a web site with more at http://riverbelle.boman.biz Alan Visit
              Message 6 of 9 , Jul 13, 2009
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                Jon - I have uploaded some photos on to the Group site (link below), I also
                have a web site with more at http://riverbelle.boman.biz



                Alan



                Visit
                <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AtkinBoats;_ylc=X3oDMTJmZjUwNjQ5BF9TAzk3MzU5N
                zE0BGdycElkAzExNzc5NzA3BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNTg4NDA5MARzZWMDdnRsBHNsawN2Z2hwBHN0a
                W1lAzEyNDc1MzU0ODE-> Your Group



                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Sgt Sak
                Alan, Have you posted pictures? I would be very interested to see how you put it together. I put the hull lines into a CAD program and pulled off the surface
                Message 7 of 9 , Jul 14, 2009
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                  Alan,
                  Have you posted pictures? I would be very interested to see how you put it together. I put the hull lines into a CAD program and pulled off the surface sections from there. I am planing on building a model of her first before I start on the real thing. I intend to raise the forecastle a bit and use that area for a sleeping area.

                  My only other issue is what engine to use, I can't find a weight on the Kermath engine that was specified, I could go with a diesel but will more than likely use a ford 6cyl 4.9 because they are cheap and indestructible(almost). My worry is having enough weight to balance out the boat for proper performance of the tunnel.
                  Regards
                  Phil


                  > I'm building a "River Belle" and have chosen to go the plywood/epoxy route
                  > instead of diagonal planking on frames.
                • Alan Boman
                  Phil, Yes, I have put some pictures in the Photos area at the Group s site. Alternatively, you can look at my web site at http://riverbelle.boman.biz I built
                  Message 8 of 9 , Jul 15, 2009
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                    Phil,



                    Yes, I have put some pictures in the Photos area at the Group's site.
                    Alternatively, you can look at my web site at http://riverbelle.boman.biz



                    I built several 1/10 scale models from 3mm MDF and 0.6mm modeller's marine
                    ply and it was a very useful exercise, especially since I was changing from
                    flat hull sides to curved.



                    I raised the sheer in the bow as well for the same reasons, and I found that
                    it was too narrow for a Queen sized bed (5'6") unless you moved it well aft
                    and started wasting space. Ultimately, I moved the accommodation to the
                    stern and I am going to use the bow as the galley.



                    I think you're right about the engine, anything around 100hp should be
                    fine; I'm using a 149 GM six cylinder with a Borg Warner Velvet Drive.



                    The weight, or lack of it, is going to be a problem I suspect. Using modern
                    construction methods will make the boat much too light and the chine at the
                    transom is only in the water by about 35mm anyway. If the chine breaks
                    clear of the surface it will dump the water out of the tunnel which will
                    make for a bumpy ride. The displacement at Atkin's DWL is 4.22 tonnes so I
                    am proposing to simply mark the required water line on the hull and then
                    ballast as necessary.



                    Cheers



                    Alan



                    From: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com] On
                    Behalf Of Sgt Sak
                    Sent: Tuesday, 14 July 2009 11:45 PM
                    To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Antiquity








                    Alan,
                    Have you posted pictures? I would be very interested to see how you put it
                    together. I put the hull lines into a CAD program and pulled off the surface
                    sections from there. I am planing on building a model of her first before I
                    start on the real thing. I intend to raise the forecastle a bit and use that
                    area for a sleeping area.

                    My only other issue is what engine to use, I can't find a weight on the
                    Kermath engine that was specified, I could go with a diesel but will more
                    than likely use a ford 6cyl 4.9 because they are cheap and
                    indestructible(almost). My worry is having enough weight to balance out the
                    boat for proper performance of the tunnel.
                    Regards
                    Phil

                    > I'm building a "River Belle" and have chosen to go the plywood/epoxy route
                    > instead of diagonal planking on frames.





                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Sgt Sak
                    Alan, The funny part is I already had your site bookmarked, it s hell getting old. About the drive set up, I thought about using a belt drive system. There are
                    Message 9 of 9 , Jul 16, 2009
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                      Alan,
                      The funny part is I already had your site bookmarked, it's hell getting old.

                      About the drive set up, I thought about using a belt drive system. There are several in use in Cmdr Robert Bebe's original "Voyaging Under Power" for far larger and higher horsepower yachts. The idea is to have a "breakaway" area in the drive train that will hopefully stall before wrecking anything important if a solid object is sucked into the prop. The engine could sit lower and along the center line and still keep the prop shaft at the specified angle.

                      Along that line what about a controllable pitch prop? I am not sure of the cost of one like a Hundested but it would be handy to be able to reverse direction without shifting and to be able to adjust RPM and thrust.

                      One of the Rescue Minor owners mentioned weed build up between the rudder and rudder strap. What if the strap were floating, with a small gap between the rudder post and strap. It would still deflect larger objects but hopefully allow weeds and rope to pass through.
                      Regards
                      Phil
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