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Re: Gwen o' the River

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  • Jon & Wanda(Tink)
    Nice job on Extream Hope Steve. In the lady I am thinking twolayers of 3/8 may be enough for the bottom cold molded with the sides 1/2 deck 1/2 the cabin
    Message 1 of 15 , Feb 8, 2009
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      Nice job on Extream Hope Steve. In the lady I am thinking twolayers
      of 3/8" may be enough for the bottom cold molded with the sides 1/2"
      deck 1/2" the cabin sides 3/8" and 1/2" cabbin top all depending on
      stringer and frame spacing. Heavy glass the bottom and sides with 16-
      18Oz. of glass deck and cabbin top with 6 Oz. and cabbin sides with 3-
      3.5 Oz. I would do the hull upside down it makes cold molding and
      glassing easyer. --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Steve"
      <classiccraft@...> wrote:
      > Well, I am all for conversion to modern materils. They are lighter,
      > stronger and make the build quicker and easier.
      True "traditionalists "
      > will no doubt disagree with me, but I'm OK with that. The end
      result
      > looks just like the original, but will most likely perform better
      and
      > require less maintenance.
      >
      > FYI, the extended "Hope" in my photos has a 1/2" sheet ply bottom
      and
      > two layers of 3/16" ply laid double diagonally on the topsides. The
      > frames are 3" x 3/4", and the stringers are 1" x 3/4". There are
      also
      > two floor height girders (1/2" ply)running nearly the full length
      of
      > the boat.
      >
      > For "Lady of the Lake", I would suggest 2 x 1/2" ply for the bottom
      and
      > single 1/2" topsides. This boat could easily be built upright..
      >
    • Steve
      ... Well, just so you can see I know what I am talking about, I have added two pics of a 42ft flat bottomed motorsailer I am building ....upright. The bottom
      Message 2 of 15 , Feb 8, 2009
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        --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...>
        wrote:
        >
        > Nice job on Extream Hope Steve. In the lady I am thinking twolayers
        > of 3/8" may be enough for the bottom cold molded with the sides 1/2"
        > deck 1/2" the cabin sides 3/8" and 1/2" cabbin top all depending on
        > stringer and frame spacing. Heavy glass the bottom and sides with 16-
        > 18Oz. of glass deck and cabbin top with 6 Oz. and cabbin sides with 3-
        > 3.5 Oz. I would do the hull upside down it makes cold molding and
        > glassing easyer.

        Well, just so you can see I know what I am talking about, I have added
        two pics of a 42ft flat bottomed motorsailer I am building ....upright.
        The bottom was glassed first and turned over. I needed no building
        frames or molds. The bottom was flexible enough to set the rocker in
        easily. The advantages of this method are 1./you don't have the expense
        and drama of turning a complete hull, and 2./most of the fitout can be
        done before the topsides or cabin sides go on. No climbing over the
        sides of the boat - just walk in and out. Topsides and chine get
        glassed later - no problem.
      • Jon & Wanda(Tink)
        Looks like a good start and with the shape works pritty well. This little 32 hull is a little more complex with the tightness of curves so I built it upside
        Message 3 of 15 , Feb 8, 2009
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          Looks like a good start and with the shape works pritty well.
          This little 32' hull is a little more complex with the tightness of
          curves so I built it upside down. The good photos of the turning
          party where taken by John Kohnen.
          http://www.flickr.com/photos/jons_boat_building/sets/7215760270901439/
          At the bow it is 90 degrees on the cut water wraping back to the
          flaired side in 6' with the bottom at the bow having a pritty good
          trist with slight V and the stern rolling up. It is cold molded from
          two layers of 3/8" MDO set at right angles to each other. I don't
          think I could have gotten the shape in the upright. For glassing
          fairing and sanging with 10 Oz then 6 Oz. cloth turning was easyer
          then working on the floor to get this finish.
          Depending on the boat and what you want to do each boat has its way
          of building to make it easiest. Did I mention the design is from
          scrach and will have no through hulls below the water line. I do envy
          the walk in aspect of what you are doing.

          Jon


          >
          > Well, just so you can see I know what I am talking about, I have
          added
          > two pics of a 42ft flat bottomed motorsailer I am
          building ....upright.
          > The bottom was glassed first and turned over. I needed no building
          > frames or molds. The bottom was flexible enough to set the rocker
          in
          > easily. The advantages of this method are 1./you don't have the
          expense
          > and drama of turning a complete hull, and 2./most of the fitout can
          be
          > done before the topsides or cabin sides go on. No climbing over the
          > sides of the boat - just walk in and out. Topsides and chine get
          > glassed later - no problem.
          >
        • Steve
          ... http://www.flickr.com/photos/jons_boat_building/sets/7215760270901439/ ... from ... envy ... you wanted to build a Gwen or Lady of the Lake which would
          Message 4 of 15 , Feb 8, 2009
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            --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...>
            wrote:
            >
            > Looks like a good start and with the shape works pritty well.
            > This little 32' hull is a little more complex with the tightness of
            > curves so I built it upside down. The good photos of the turning
            > party where taken by John Kohnen.
            >
            http://www.flickr.com/photos/jons_boat_building/sets/7215760270901439/
            > At the bow it is 90 degrees on the cut water wraping back to the
            > flaired side in 6' with the bottom at the bow having a pritty good
            > trist with slight V and the stern rolling up. It is cold molded
            from
            > two layers of 3/8" MDO set at right angles to each other. I don't
            > think I could have gotten the shape in the upright. For glassing
            > fairing and sanging with 10 Oz then 6 Oz. cloth turning was easyer
            > then working on the floor to get this finish.
            > Depending on the boat and what you want to do each boat has its way
            > of building to make it easiest. Did I mention the design is from
            > scrach and will have no through hulls below the water line. I do
            envy
            > the walk in aspect of what you are doing.
            >
            > Jon
            >
            >
            > >
            > Ok, I see what you are doing - looks good. I got confused, thought
            you wanted to build a "Gwen" or "Lady of the Lake" which would suit
            the upright construction method. Have posted some updated pics of my
            project.
          • Jon & Wanda(Tink)
            I looked at all three of the Atkins sternwheeler designs but they didn t offer what I wanted. I looked at all kinds of house boats and some where close but
            Message 5 of 15 , Feb 9, 2009
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              I looked at all three of the Atkins sternwheeler designs but they
              didn't offer what I wanted. I looked at all kinds of house boats and
              some where close but just not right. Then I spent a year and a half
              exploreing old and new sternwheelers and started designing my owen.
              When it comes to this thread I like you are just tossing out thoughts.

              Jon

              --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <classiccraft@...> wrote:

              > > Ok, I see what you are doing - looks good. I got confused, thought
              > you wanted to build a "Gwen" or "Lady of the Lake" which would suit
              > the upright construction method. Have posted some updated pics of my
              > project.
              >
            • Steve
              ... Yeah, I m with you there...started out wanting a houseboat, then realised it would be a lot more useful if it could travel at 7 knots with small horsepower
              Message 6 of 15 , Feb 9, 2009
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                --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...>
                wrote:
                >
                > I looked at all three of the Atkins sternwheeler designs but they
                > didn't offer what I wanted. I looked at all kinds of house boats and
                > some where close but just not right. Then I spent a year and a half
                > exploreing old and new sternwheelers and started designing my owen.
                > When it comes to this thread I like you are just tossing out thoughts.
                >
                > Jon
                >
                > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <classiccraft@> wrote:
                >
                Yeah, I'm with you there...started out wanting a houseboat, then
                realised it would be a lot more useful if it could travel at 7 knots
                with small horsepower , and do coastal passages in safety and comfort.
                Oh,...and could sail.Couldn't find plans to suit, so just started
                building. Still only got a pencil sketch on a piece of ply (added).
              • Jon & Wanda(Tink)
                I find Calson Hulls and Freeship programs to be good and lurning curve is not to bad for working on designs. One of the principles of sternwheels is the bigger
                Message 7 of 15 , Feb 10, 2009
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                  I find Calson Hulls and Freeship programs to be good and lurning curve
                  is not to bad for working on designs. One of the principles of
                  sternwheels is the bigger the wheel the more efficent as long as it is
                  not to big for the boat it is on. Larger wheels have a better angle
                  entering and leaving the water so less energy is wasted and less drag.
                  A V bow cuts through the water better and pushes debris in the water to
                  the side as aposed to a scow plowing to some extent. My biggest want
                  was room for a queen bed and room for family and friends and tankage
                  for a couple weeks. I live about 100 RM up the Columbia in the NW US so
                  a sternwheeler is a ideal boat and wont look like just another plastic
                  boat. Down your way coastal cruseing is a way of life. Our choices will
                  make us each happy. When some one builds a boat I think they need to
                  decide what they want to use it for and in what kind of water then look
                  to that end. I like a lot of Atkins designs but would like to see
                  someone at some time redo them for modern methods materials and power
                  plants. Opps blaspheme

                  Jon


                  > > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <classiccraft@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > Yeah, I'm with you there...started out wanting a houseboat, then
                  > realised it would be a lot more useful if it could travel at 7 knots
                  > with small horsepower , and do coastal passages in safety and
                  comfort.
                  > Oh,...and could sail.Couldn't find plans to suit, so just started
                  > building. Still only got a pencil sketch on a piece of ply (added).
                  >
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