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Re: Gwen o' the River

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  • Steve
    ... Well, I am all for conversion to modern materils. They are lighter, stronger and make the build quicker and easier. True traditionalists will no doubt
    Message 1 of 15 , Feb 8, 2009
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      --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > The study plans that I have of Lady of the Lake off the net shows
      > frames but not real clearly and 1-1/4"x6" Cypress planking. The
      > differance in the two Ladies is small. Trailered boats need to be
      > stiffer and stronger then nontrailered to hold up the road. In a boat
      > this size with a understanding of ply on frame by some one with
      > practical expereince conversion would not be hard but must be
      > adequate to make the boat strong enough. Then again others would go
      > stich and glue hmmmmmm.
      >
      > Jon
      >
      Well, I am all for conversion to modern materils. They are lighter,
      stronger and make the build quicker and easier. True "traditionalists "
      will no doubt disagree with me, but I'm OK with that. The end result
      looks just like the original, but will most likely perform better and
      require less maintenance.

      FYI, the extended "Hope" in my photos has a 1/2" sheet ply bottom and
      two layers of 3/16" ply laid double diagonally on the topsides. The
      frames are 3" x 3/4", and the stringers are 1" x 3/4". There are also
      two floor height girders (1/2" ply)running nearly the full length of
      the boat.

      For "Lady of the Lake", I would suggest 2 x 1/2" ply for the bottom and
      single 1/2" topsides. This boat could easily be built upright..
    • Jon & Wanda(Tink)
      Nice job on Extream Hope Steve. In the lady I am thinking twolayers of 3/8 may be enough for the bottom cold molded with the sides 1/2 deck 1/2 the cabin
      Message 2 of 15 , Feb 8, 2009
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        Nice job on Extream Hope Steve. In the lady I am thinking twolayers
        of 3/8" may be enough for the bottom cold molded with the sides 1/2"
        deck 1/2" the cabin sides 3/8" and 1/2" cabbin top all depending on
        stringer and frame spacing. Heavy glass the bottom and sides with 16-
        18Oz. of glass deck and cabbin top with 6 Oz. and cabbin sides with 3-
        3.5 Oz. I would do the hull upside down it makes cold molding and
        glassing easyer. --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Steve"
        <classiccraft@...> wrote:
        > Well, I am all for conversion to modern materils. They are lighter,
        > stronger and make the build quicker and easier.
        True "traditionalists "
        > will no doubt disagree with me, but I'm OK with that. The end
        result
        > looks just like the original, but will most likely perform better
        and
        > require less maintenance.
        >
        > FYI, the extended "Hope" in my photos has a 1/2" sheet ply bottom
        and
        > two layers of 3/16" ply laid double diagonally on the topsides. The
        > frames are 3" x 3/4", and the stringers are 1" x 3/4". There are
        also
        > two floor height girders (1/2" ply)running nearly the full length
        of
        > the boat.
        >
        > For "Lady of the Lake", I would suggest 2 x 1/2" ply for the bottom
        and
        > single 1/2" topsides. This boat could easily be built upright..
        >
      • Steve
        ... Well, just so you can see I know what I am talking about, I have added two pics of a 42ft flat bottomed motorsailer I am building ....upright. The bottom
        Message 3 of 15 , Feb 8, 2009
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          --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...>
          wrote:
          >
          > Nice job on Extream Hope Steve. In the lady I am thinking twolayers
          > of 3/8" may be enough for the bottom cold molded with the sides 1/2"
          > deck 1/2" the cabin sides 3/8" and 1/2" cabbin top all depending on
          > stringer and frame spacing. Heavy glass the bottom and sides with 16-
          > 18Oz. of glass deck and cabbin top with 6 Oz. and cabbin sides with 3-
          > 3.5 Oz. I would do the hull upside down it makes cold molding and
          > glassing easyer.

          Well, just so you can see I know what I am talking about, I have added
          two pics of a 42ft flat bottomed motorsailer I am building ....upright.
          The bottom was glassed first and turned over. I needed no building
          frames or molds. The bottom was flexible enough to set the rocker in
          easily. The advantages of this method are 1./you don't have the expense
          and drama of turning a complete hull, and 2./most of the fitout can be
          done before the topsides or cabin sides go on. No climbing over the
          sides of the boat - just walk in and out. Topsides and chine get
          glassed later - no problem.
        • Jon & Wanda(Tink)
          Looks like a good start and with the shape works pritty well. This little 32 hull is a little more complex with the tightness of curves so I built it upside
          Message 4 of 15 , Feb 8, 2009
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            Looks like a good start and with the shape works pritty well.
            This little 32' hull is a little more complex with the tightness of
            curves so I built it upside down. The good photos of the turning
            party where taken by John Kohnen.
            http://www.flickr.com/photos/jons_boat_building/sets/7215760270901439/
            At the bow it is 90 degrees on the cut water wraping back to the
            flaired side in 6' with the bottom at the bow having a pritty good
            trist with slight V and the stern rolling up. It is cold molded from
            two layers of 3/8" MDO set at right angles to each other. I don't
            think I could have gotten the shape in the upright. For glassing
            fairing and sanging with 10 Oz then 6 Oz. cloth turning was easyer
            then working on the floor to get this finish.
            Depending on the boat and what you want to do each boat has its way
            of building to make it easiest. Did I mention the design is from
            scrach and will have no through hulls below the water line. I do envy
            the walk in aspect of what you are doing.

            Jon


            >
            > Well, just so you can see I know what I am talking about, I have
            added
            > two pics of a 42ft flat bottomed motorsailer I am
            building ....upright.
            > The bottom was glassed first and turned over. I needed no building
            > frames or molds. The bottom was flexible enough to set the rocker
            in
            > easily. The advantages of this method are 1./you don't have the
            expense
            > and drama of turning a complete hull, and 2./most of the fitout can
            be
            > done before the topsides or cabin sides go on. No climbing over the
            > sides of the boat - just walk in and out. Topsides and chine get
            > glassed later - no problem.
            >
          • Steve
            ... http://www.flickr.com/photos/jons_boat_building/sets/7215760270901439/ ... from ... envy ... you wanted to build a Gwen or Lady of the Lake which would
            Message 5 of 15 , Feb 8, 2009
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              --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...>
              wrote:
              >
              > Looks like a good start and with the shape works pritty well.
              > This little 32' hull is a little more complex with the tightness of
              > curves so I built it upside down. The good photos of the turning
              > party where taken by John Kohnen.
              >
              http://www.flickr.com/photos/jons_boat_building/sets/7215760270901439/
              > At the bow it is 90 degrees on the cut water wraping back to the
              > flaired side in 6' with the bottom at the bow having a pritty good
              > trist with slight V and the stern rolling up. It is cold molded
              from
              > two layers of 3/8" MDO set at right angles to each other. I don't
              > think I could have gotten the shape in the upright. For glassing
              > fairing and sanging with 10 Oz then 6 Oz. cloth turning was easyer
              > then working on the floor to get this finish.
              > Depending on the boat and what you want to do each boat has its way
              > of building to make it easiest. Did I mention the design is from
              > scrach and will have no through hulls below the water line. I do
              envy
              > the walk in aspect of what you are doing.
              >
              > Jon
              >
              >
              > >
              > Ok, I see what you are doing - looks good. I got confused, thought
              you wanted to build a "Gwen" or "Lady of the Lake" which would suit
              the upright construction method. Have posted some updated pics of my
              project.
            • Jon & Wanda(Tink)
              I looked at all three of the Atkins sternwheeler designs but they didn t offer what I wanted. I looked at all kinds of house boats and some where close but
              Message 6 of 15 , Feb 9, 2009
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                I looked at all three of the Atkins sternwheeler designs but they
                didn't offer what I wanted. I looked at all kinds of house boats and
                some where close but just not right. Then I spent a year and a half
                exploreing old and new sternwheelers and started designing my owen.
                When it comes to this thread I like you are just tossing out thoughts.

                Jon

                --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <classiccraft@...> wrote:

                > > Ok, I see what you are doing - looks good. I got confused, thought
                > you wanted to build a "Gwen" or "Lady of the Lake" which would suit
                > the upright construction method. Have posted some updated pics of my
                > project.
                >
              • Steve
                ... Yeah, I m with you there...started out wanting a houseboat, then realised it would be a lot more useful if it could travel at 7 knots with small horsepower
                Message 7 of 15 , Feb 9, 2009
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                  --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...>
                  wrote:
                  >
                  > I looked at all three of the Atkins sternwheeler designs but they
                  > didn't offer what I wanted. I looked at all kinds of house boats and
                  > some where close but just not right. Then I spent a year and a half
                  > exploreing old and new sternwheelers and started designing my owen.
                  > When it comes to this thread I like you are just tossing out thoughts.
                  >
                  > Jon
                  >
                  > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <classiccraft@> wrote:
                  >
                  Yeah, I'm with you there...started out wanting a houseboat, then
                  realised it would be a lot more useful if it could travel at 7 knots
                  with small horsepower , and do coastal passages in safety and comfort.
                  Oh,...and could sail.Couldn't find plans to suit, so just started
                  building. Still only got a pencil sketch on a piece of ply (added).
                • Jon & Wanda(Tink)
                  I find Calson Hulls and Freeship programs to be good and lurning curve is not to bad for working on designs. One of the principles of sternwheels is the bigger
                  Message 8 of 15 , Feb 10, 2009
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                    I find Calson Hulls and Freeship programs to be good and lurning curve
                    is not to bad for working on designs. One of the principles of
                    sternwheels is the bigger the wheel the more efficent as long as it is
                    not to big for the boat it is on. Larger wheels have a better angle
                    entering and leaving the water so less energy is wasted and less drag.
                    A V bow cuts through the water better and pushes debris in the water to
                    the side as aposed to a scow plowing to some extent. My biggest want
                    was room for a queen bed and room for family and friends and tankage
                    for a couple weeks. I live about 100 RM up the Columbia in the NW US so
                    a sternwheeler is a ideal boat and wont look like just another plastic
                    boat. Down your way coastal cruseing is a way of life. Our choices will
                    make us each happy. When some one builds a boat I think they need to
                    decide what they want to use it for and in what kind of water then look
                    to that end. I like a lot of Atkins designs but would like to see
                    someone at some time redo them for modern methods materials and power
                    plants. Opps blaspheme

                    Jon


                    > > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <classiccraft@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > Yeah, I'm with you there...started out wanting a houseboat, then
                    > realised it would be a lot more useful if it could travel at 7 knots
                    > with small horsepower , and do coastal passages in safety and
                    comfort.
                    > Oh,...and could sail.Couldn't find plans to suit, so just started
                    > building. Still only got a pencil sketch on a piece of ply (added).
                    >
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