Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat

Expand Messages
  • Giuliano Girometta
    I don t think will be a good idea. I am now talking about my professional experience with furniture manufacturing and restoring. The application of veneer to a
    Message 1 of 19 , Aug 27, 2008
    • 0 Attachment
      I don't think will be a good idea.
      I am now talking about my professional experience with furniture manufacturing and restoring.
      The application of veneer to a solid core need the veneer to be applied to both sides in order to stabilize the wood and avoid the warping of the core..
      The core must be of a very stable wood, otherwise the veneer is going to blister.
      My personal opinion and also experience is that each time you are trying to take a shortcut, you end up to spend more money and labor than doing the work right the first time.
      Furthermore, caulking is just a simple operation that can be repeated over and over each time is needed, and require just two basic hand tools. While other approaches such veneering will require a complete stripping of the old coatings and bring the hull down to bare wood, otherwise there is no good adhesion, you will have to use a vacum pressing system and the cost for the veneer will be outrageous. Then you have to re-prime and re-paint the hull completly. (Whrew is the saving?).
      Caulking only need a caulking iron and a mallet and some cotton or oakum.
      Bevare of the specialty products that dno't need the cotton, I heared bad thinks about such great convenience and fast applications, and then will take you ten time more than the time of caulking just to go all over with a razor blade and remove that junk from the seams.
       
      There i a great book on the market called " Buehler's Backyard Boatbuilding" a lot of good topics and instructions.
       
      Giuliano

      --- On Thu, 8/28/08, gordocutter_1 <gordocutter_1@...> wrote:

      From: gordocutter_1 <gordocutter_1@...>
      Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
      To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 12:01 AM






      I've been thinking, what if you put a layer of veneer over a carvel
      hull with epoxi, would this solve the problem of the shrinking and
      swelling? For example putting a layer of veneer say at 45° or 90°
      over the carvel hull maybe this would work like form to stabilize
      the planks (like a cold molded would) and if you encapsulate the
      hull isolating it from the air this could stop the work of the wood.
      Adaucto

      --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com, "gordocutter_ 1"
      <gordocutter_ 1@...> wrote:
      >
      > That's exactly what I've read about it. Sure I don't have the same
      > experience of a life working with boats like Joaquim has, so I can
      > only say what read or hear about it.
      > Adaucto
      >
      > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com, Giuliano Girometta <ggboat1@>
      > wrote:
      > >
      > > If the boat is carvel planking, to epoxy the planks is not a
      good
      > idea, the planking is supposed to expand when in the water and
      seal
      > the gaps. Epoxy will slow down the swelling process.
      > > Furthermore, the epoxy will not stick and will crack on the
      > caulking. This will allow moisture to penetrate the planking at
      the
      > cracked seems and the rot will start because the epoxy will try to
      > maintain the moisture inside.
      > >  
      > > Cold moulded, strip planked and plywood are ok with epoxy.
      > >  
      > > Giuliano
      > >
      > > --- On Wed, 8/27/08, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ > wrote:
      > >
      > > From: JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ >
      > > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
      > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
      > > Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 1:36 PM
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > I have worked on boats all my life, and never had a problem with
      > epoxy-saturation techniques. on a boat built more than 60 years
      ago,
      > there would be no problem. I always refere to West System Manuals.
      > >
      > > --- On Tue, 8/26/08, gordocutter_ 1 <gordocutter_ 1@....
      br>
      > wrote:
      > > From: gordocutter_ 1 <gordocutter_ 1@.... br>
      > > Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
      > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
      > > Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 11:09 AM
      > >
      > > I dind't know that traditional plank on edge hulls could be coat
      > >
      > > with epoxi. I've heard that due to the shrink of the planks the
      > >
      > > epoxi would not seal the hull the same way that a strip
      planking,
      > >
      > > cold molded or ply construction can be with epoxi.
      > >
      > > Adaucto
      > >
      > > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com, JOAQUIN OMAHONY
      > <jqnomahony@ ...>
      > >
      > > wrote:
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > Hi Archie...if possible, take the old caulking out. I used 
      5200
      > >
      > > Fast Cure in the seams, because the boat is on a trailer now,
      and
      > >
      > > not in the water all the time. the builder put a keel on her,
      > which
      > >
      > > was not part of the original design, so i removed it and put in
      a
      > >
      > > centerboard case and centerboard. a good idea is to get the west
      > >
      > > system book on Wooden Boat Restoration and Repair. I have also
      > >
      > > sealed the hull with several coats of epoxy, and used
      > epoxy,Valspar
      > >
      > > enamel on the Interior/Exterior, and all new wood is coated with
      > >
      > > epoxy before painting, and clear urethane on any varnish.
      > >
      > > > Joaquin
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, Archie <archevanbelle@ ...> wrote:
      > >
      > > > From: Archie <archevanbelle@ ...>
      > >
      > > > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
      > >
      > > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
      > >
      > > > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 3:16 PM
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > The hull was repaired five years ago and re-caulked 
      > >
      > > with a cement mixture. The boat has been stored all this time
      > under
      > >
      > > a tarp, protected from the weather, but some of the seams have
      > >
      > > opened up do to continued shrinking of the planks. To repair
      this
      > do
      > >
      > > we have to take out the existing caulking or can we just fill up
      > the
      > >
      > > new cracks with some other type of caulking?
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > Archie
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > Arch E. Van Belle
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ yahoo. com>
      > wrote:
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > From: JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ yahoo. com>
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 1:01 PM
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > Hi Archie...I have been rebuilding a 22ft Dolly Varden, built
      in
      > >
      > > 1936. Perhaps I can help. What is it you want to know exactly.
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > Joaquin
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, archevanbelle <archevanbelle@ yahoo.com>
      > >
      > > wrote:
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > From: archevanbelle <archevanbelle@ yahoo.com>
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > Subject: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 8:16 AM
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > Hi All,
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > Does anyone out there have experience restoring a vintage
      wooden
      > >
      > > boat?
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > We have a 38' Atkins designed wooden sailboat built in 1935
      and
      > we
      > >
      > > have
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > several question on the restoration, especially the hull.
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > Archie
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      >


















      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • John Kohnen
      Good advice, Giuliano! The old ways work, as Pete Culler used to tell us. A properly cared for traditionally built boat is just about immortal, cause you
      Message 2 of 19 , Aug 27, 2008
      • 0 Attachment
        Good advice, Giuliano! "The old ways work," as Pete Culler used to tell
        us. A properly cared for traditionally built boat is just about immortal,
        'cause you can just keep fixing it and replacing parts as needed. Trying
        to combine modern boatbuilding techniques with old may work in the short
        run, but will be a disaster down the line.

        Several years ago an interesting couple who live on their boat in South
        Georgia (the island) had their worn out, carvel planked cutter rejuvenated
        by having several layers of veneers "cold-molded " over the outside of the
        hull. The operation was apparently a success, 'cause last I heard they
        were still living on the boat down in those cold climes. Rot doesn't like
        cold. <g> Their fix was kind of like what Allan Vaitses used to promote
        for getting a few more seasons out of an old fishing boat by fiberglassing
        it. It'll work for a while, maybe a long while someplace like the
        Antarctic, but when it goes bad the only thing the boat will be good for
        is firewood. But the couple from South Georgia's boat was written up in
        Wooden Boat, so people all over the place started thinking that a
        cold-molded shell was a good way to "save" an old boat. <sigh>

        A few years ago a fellow I know slightly bought an old British
        double-ended sailboat that had been treated to the cold-molding fix. She
        looked fine outside, and a quick glance inside didn't look too bad. One
        day he had to cut through the cold-molded shell for some reason. What he
        found was a layer of compost between the shell and a thin layer of halfway
        decent wood that was what you'd seen in your quick glance inside. He
        stripped off all the cold-molded shell and found there was scarcely a
        single plank worth saving. He gave up and the boatyard broke up the
        derelict hulk a few months ago. :o( Don't do it!

        The cotton or oakum is the caulking, any goop is just "seam compound" to
        fair the seam. The cotton or oakum doesn't just keep water out, it
        stiffens the hull. Trying to replace real caulking with goop is a criminal
        delusion.

        On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:29:58 -0700, Giuliano G wrote:

        > ...
        > My personal opinion and also experience is that each time you are trying
        > to take a shortcut, you end up to spend more money and labor than doing
        > the work right the first time.
        > ...
        > Bevare of the specialty products that dno't need the cotton, I heared
        > bad thinks about such great convenience and fast applications, and then
        > will take you ten time more than the time of caulking just to go all
        > over with a razor blade and remove that junk from the seams.
        >  ...

        --
        John <jkohnen@...>
        No man is justified in doing evil on the ground of expediency.
        <Franklin D. Roosevelt>
      • John Kohnen
        That cement stuff is just seam compound. The real caulking is the cotton or oakum stuffed into the seams beneath the seam compound. Clean all the old seam
        Message 3 of 19 , Aug 27, 2008
        • 0 Attachment
          That cement stuff is just seam compound. The real caulking is the cotton
          or oakum stuffed into the seams beneath the seam compound. Clean all the
          old seam compound out of the seams and then check the caulking to make
          sure it's tight. Caulking is kind of an art, though anyone can pick it up
          well enough, so I'm told. Around the boatyards where I hang out the
          fishermen teach each other how to caulk, and other tricks of boat repair.
          Ask around your boatyard and you'll probably find someone to show you the
          rudiments of caulking. I sure hope there are some wooden boats other than
          yours there though! Out here we're still blessed with a lot of wooden
          fishing boats.

          I shudder whenever I see that cement seam compound. <shudder> It doesn't
          have any give, so it can damage the plank edges if they swell overmuch,
          and it doesn't do any good if the planks shrink. But the fishermen seem to
          love it, and some of their boats have lasted a long, long time. <shrug> A
          common recipe involves Portland cement and roofing tar. It stays soft
          until the boat hits the water and it's planks swell up, but then hardens.
          Many of the fishermen only use the cement compound on the topsides, using
          straight roofing tar below the waterline. I think it's worth the extra
          cost to use a real, non-hardening seam compound.

          Good luck with you project!

          On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 15:16:58 -0700, Archie wrote:

          > The hull was repaired five years ago and re-caulked  with a cement
          > mixture. The boat has been stored all this time under a tarp, protected
          > from the weather, but some of the seams have opened up do to continued
          > shrinking of the planks. To repair this do we have to take out the
          > existing caulking or can we just fill up the new cracks with some other
          > type of caulking?

          --
          John <jkohnen@...>
          It s a damn poor mind that can think of only one way to spell a
          word! <Attributed to Andrew Jackson>
        • gordocutter_1
          Thanks for the tips friends. I thought that this could work because I saw in the Gartside s website a double planked hull that use epoxi so I figured that this
          Message 4 of 19 , Aug 28, 2008
          • 0 Attachment
            Thanks for the tips friends. I thought that this could work because
            I saw in the Gartside's website a double planked hull that use epoxi
            so I figured that this could work with traditional plank on edge
            with veneer.

            Adaucto


            --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "John Kohnen" <jkohnen@...> wrote:
            >
            > Good advice, Giuliano! "The old ways work," as Pete Culler used to
            tell
            > us. A properly cared for traditionally built boat is just about
            immortal,
            > 'cause you can just keep fixing it and replacing parts as needed.
            Trying
            > to combine modern boatbuilding techniques with old may work in the
            short
            > run, but will be a disaster down the line.
            >
            > Several years ago an interesting couple who live on their boat in
            South
            > Georgia (the island) had their worn out, carvel planked cutter
            rejuvenated
            > by having several layers of veneers "cold-molded " over the
            outside of the
            > hull. The operation was apparently a success, 'cause last I heard
            they
            > were still living on the boat down in those cold climes. Rot
            doesn't like
            > cold. <g> Their fix was kind of like what Allan Vaitses used to
            promote
            > for getting a few more seasons out of an old fishing boat by
            fiberglassing
            > it. It'll work for a while, maybe a long while someplace like the
            > Antarctic, but when it goes bad the only thing the boat will be
            good for
            > is firewood. But the couple from South Georgia's boat was written
            up in
            > Wooden Boat, so people all over the place started thinking that a
            > cold-molded shell was a good way to "save" an old boat. <sigh>
            >
            > A few years ago a fellow I know slightly bought an old British
            > double-ended sailboat that had been treated to the cold-molding
            fix. She
            > looked fine outside, and a quick glance inside didn't look too
            bad. One
            > day he had to cut through the cold-molded shell for some reason.
            What he
            > found was a layer of compost between the shell and a thin layer of
            halfway
            > decent wood that was what you'd seen in your quick glance inside.
            He
            > stripped off all the cold-molded shell and found there was
            scarcely a
            > single plank worth saving. He gave up and the boatyard broke up
            the
            > derelict hulk a few months ago. :o( Don't do it!
            >
            > The cotton or oakum is the caulking, any goop is just "seam
            compound" to
            > fair the seam. The cotton or oakum doesn't just keep water out,
            it
            > stiffens the hull. Trying to replace real caulking with goop is a
            criminal
            > delusion.
            >
            > On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:29:58 -0700, Giuliano G wrote:
            >
            > > ...
            > > My personal opinion and also experience is that each time you
            are trying
            > > to take a shortcut, you end up to spend more money and labor
            than doing
            > > the work right the first time.
            > > ...
            > > Bevare of the specialty products that dno't need the cotton, I
            heared
            > > bad thinks about such great convenience and fast applications,
            and then
            > > will take you ten time more than the time of caulking just to go
            all
            > > over with a razor blade and remove that junk from the seams.
            > >  ...
            >
            > --
            > John <jkohnen@...>
            > No man is justified in doing evil on the ground of expediency.
            > <Franklin D. Roosevelt>
            >
          • Archie
            Thanks for the information. We are located near Port Townsend Washington and are looking for someone that can help. Arch E. Van Belle ... From: John Kohnen
            Message 5 of 19 , Aug 29, 2008
            • 0 Attachment
              Thanks for the information. We are located near Port Townsend Washington and are looking for someone that can help.

              Arch E. Van Belle

              --- On Wed, 8/27/08, John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:

              From: John Kohnen <jkohnen@...>
              Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
              To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
              Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 11:12 PM

              That cement stuff is just seam compound. The real caulking is the cotton
              or oakum stuffed into the seams beneath the seam compound. Clean all the
              old seam compound out of the seams and then check the caulking to make
              sure it's tight. Caulking is kind of an art, though anyone can pick it up
              well enough, so I'm told. Around the boatyards where I hang out the
              fishermen teach each other how to caulk, and other tricks of boat repair.
              Ask around your boatyard and you'll probably find someone to show you the
              rudiments of caulking. I sure hope there are some wooden boats other than
              yours there though! Out here we're still blessed with a lot of wooden
              fishing boats.

              I shudder whenever I see that cement seam compound. <shudder> It
              doesn't
              have any give, so it can damage the plank edges if they swell overmuch,
              and it doesn't do any good if the planks shrink. But the fishermen seem to

              love it, and some of their boats have lasted a long, long time. <shrug> A

              common recipe involves Portland cement and roofing tar. It stays soft
              until the boat hits the water and it's planks swell up, but then hardens.
              Many of the fishermen only use the cement compound on the topsides, using
              straight roofing tar below the waterline. I think it's worth the extra
              cost to use a real, non-hardening seam compound.

              Good luck with you project!

              On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 15:16:58 -0700, Archie wrote:

              > The hull was repaired five years ago and re-caulked  with a cement
              > mixture. The boat has been stored all this time under a tarp, protected
              > from the weather, but some of the seams have opened up do to continued
              > shrinking of the planks. To repair this do we have to take out the
              > existing caulking or can we just fill up the new cracks with some other
              > type of caulking?

              --
              John <jkohnen@...>
              It s a damn poor mind that can think of only one way to spell a
              word! <Attributed to Andrew Jackson>

              ------------------------------------

              No flaming, cursing, politics, religion or public mopery. Please be polite.

              If you set out to build an Atkin boat, please do not modify the plans. If you
              stray from the plans you do so at your own risk and Atkin & Co. will take no
              responsibility for the performance of the resulting boat.

              The current Atkin boat plans catalog is online at
              <http://www.atkinboatplans.com/>

              Yahoo! Groups Links





              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • John Kohnen
              You re in luck! There are lots of people around Port Townsend who know about wooden boats. Where is your boat? Maybe I can stop and look at it when I m up that
              Message 6 of 19 , Aug 30, 2008
              • 0 Attachment
                You're in luck! There are lots of people around Port Townsend who know
                about wooden boats. Where is your boat? Maybe I can stop and look at it
                when I'm up that way next week for the Festival.

                On Fri, 29 Aug 2008 06:39:08 -0700, Archie wrote:

                > Thanks for the information. We are located near Port Townsend Washington
                > and are looking for someone that can help.

                --
                John <jkohnen@...>
                What is more pleasant than a friendly little yacht, a long
                stretch of smooth water, a gentle breeze, the stars? <Billy Atkin>
              • Archie
                That would be great. We plan to go to the festival our self. We are located at 1488 Shine Road, Port Ludlow. If you come by way of the Hood Canal floating
                Message 7 of 19 , Aug 30, 2008
                • 0 Attachment
                  That would be great. We plan to go to the festival our self.
                  We are located at 1488 Shine Road, Port Ludlow. If you come by way of the Hood Canal floating bridge, you would take the first left turn after crossing the bridge. We are about 1.5 miles down that road on the south side of the road. My cell phone number is 425-218-4111

                  Arch E. Van Belle

                  --- On Sat, 8/30/08, John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:

                  From: John Kohnen <jkohnen@...>
                  Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
                  To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
                  Date: Saturday, August 30, 2008, 12:14 AM

                  You're in luck! There are lots of people around Port Townsend who know
                  about wooden boats. Where is your boat? Maybe I can stop and look at it
                  when I'm up that way next week for the Festival.

                  On Fri, 29 Aug 2008 06:39:08 -0700, Archie wrote:

                  > Thanks for the information. We are located near Port Townsend Washington
                  > and are looking for someone that can help.

                  --
                  John <jkohnen@...>
                  What is more pleasant than a friendly little yacht, a long
                  stretch of smooth water, a gentle breeze, the stars? <Billy Atkin>

                  ------------------------------------

                  No flaming, cursing, politics, religion or public mopery. Please be polite.

                  If you set out to build an Atkin boat, please do not modify the plans. If you
                  stray from the plans you do so at your own risk and Atkin & Co. will take no
                  responsibility for the performance of the resulting boat.

                  The current Atkin boat plans catalog is online at
                  <http://www.atkinboatplans.com/>

                  Yahoo! Groups Links





                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • John Kohnen
                  I won t be going near no floating bridge if I can help it! The drive down the west side of Hood Canal is much nicer, and more relaxing after all the
                  Message 8 of 19 , Sep 2, 2008
                  • 0 Attachment
                    I won't be going near no floating bridge if I can help it! <g> The drive
                    down the west side of Hood Canal is much nicer, and more relaxing after
                    all the freeway from Oregon to Shelton. But I'll plan to stop by your
                    place either on the way to PT tomorrow, or on the way home Monday.

                    I'm going to have my odd little camp cruiser on display. All Atkin boat
                    nuts are invited to stop by and BS about boats.

                    http://tinyurl.com/67z4cj

                    A bunch of unconventional boat nuts meet at the Otter Crossing for brunch
                    Saturday at 10:00. If you're of a Coot-like disposition you're invited to
                    join us.

                    Should be a good show this year. The weather sounds like it's gonna be
                    perfect -- sunny but not too warm. :o)

                    On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 07:59:52 -0700, Archie wrote:

                    > That would be great. We plan to go to the festival our self.
                    > We are located at 1488 Shine Road, Port Ludlow. If you come by way of
                    > the Hood Canal floating bridge, you would take the first left turn after
                    > crossing the bridge. We are about 1.5 miles down that road on the south
                    > side of the road. My cell phone number is 425-218-4111
                    >
                    --
                    John <jkohnen@...>
                    Nobody ought to wear a Greek fisherman's hat unless they meet
                    two conditions: 1. He is a Greek; 2. He is a Fisherman <Roy
                    Blount Jr.>
                  • Archie
                    I will be here tomorrow and will be working on the boat. I will be out of town on Monday so I hope you can make it tomorrow. If not, I will look for you at the
                    Message 9 of 19 , Sep 2, 2008
                    • 0 Attachment
                      I will be here tomorrow and will be working on the boat. I will be out of town on Monday so I hope you can make it tomorrow. If not, I will look for you at the Festival on Friday.

                      Arch E. Van Belle

                      --- On Tue, 9/2/08, John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:

                      From: John Kohnen <jkohnen@...>
                      Subject: [AtkinBoats] Port Townsend Festival
                      To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
                      Date: Tuesday, September 2, 2008, 6:32 PM

                      I won't be going near no floating bridge if I can help it! <g> The
                      drive
                      down the west side of Hood Canal is much nicer, and more relaxing after
                      all the freeway from Oregon to Shelton. But I'll plan to stop by your
                      place either on the way to PT tomorrow, or on the way home Monday.

                      I'm going to have my odd little camp cruiser on display. All Atkin boat
                      nuts are invited to stop by and BS about boats.

                      http://tinyurl.com/67z4cj

                      A bunch of unconventional boat nuts meet at the Otter Crossing for brunch
                      Saturday at 10:00. If you're of a Coot-like disposition you're invited
                      to
                      join us.

                      Should be a good show this year. The weather sounds like it's gonna be
                      perfect -- sunny but not too warm. :o)

                      On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 07:59:52 -0700, Archie wrote:

                      > That would be great. We plan to go to the festival our self.
                      > We are located at 1488 Shine Road, Port Ludlow. If you come by way of
                      > the Hood Canal floating bridge, you would take the first left turn after
                      > crossing the bridge. We are about 1.5 miles down that road on the south
                      > side of the road. My cell phone number is 425-218-4111
                      >
                      --
                      John <jkohnen@...>
                      Nobody ought to wear a Greek fisherman's hat unless they meet
                      two conditions: 1. He is a Greek; 2. He is a Fisherman <Roy
                      Blount Jr.>

                      ------------------------------------

                      No flaming, cursing, politics, religion or public mopery. Please be polite.

                      If you set out to build an Atkin boat, please do not modify the plans. If you
                      stray from the plans you do so at your own risk and Atkin & Co. will take no
                      responsibility for the performance of the resulting boat.

                      The current Atkin boat plans catalog is online at
                      <http://www.atkinboatplans.com/>

                      Yahoo! Groups Links





                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.