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Re: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat

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  • JOAQUIN OMAHONY
    I have worked on boats all my life, and never had a problem with epoxy-saturation techniques. on a boat built more than 60 years ago, there would be no
    Message 1 of 19 , Aug 27 6:36 AM
    • 0 Attachment
      I have worked on boats all my life, and never had a problem with epoxy-saturation techniques. on a boat built more than 60 years ago, there would be no problem. I always refere to West System Manuals.

      --- On Tue, 8/26/08, gordocutter_1 <gordocutter_1@...> wrote:
      From: gordocutter_1 <gordocutter_1@...>
      Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
      To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 11:09 AM











      I dind't know that traditional plank on edge hulls could be coat

      with epoxi. I've heard that due to the shrink of the planks the

      epoxi would not seal the hull the same way that a strip planking,

      cold molded or ply construction can be with epoxi.

      Adaucto



      --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ ...>

      wrote:

      >

      > Hi Archie...if possible, take the old caulking out. I used  5200

      Fast Cure in the seams, because the boat is on a trailer now, and

      not in the water all the time. the builder put a keel on her, which

      was not part of the original design, so i removed it and put in a

      centerboard case and centerboard. a good idea is to get the west

      system book on Wooden Boat Restoration and Repair. I have also

      sealed the hull with several coats of epoxy, and used epoxy,Valspar

      enamel on the Interior/Exterior, and all new wood is coated with

      epoxy before painting, and clear urethane on any varnish.

      > Joaquin

      >

      > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, Archie <archevanbelle@ ...> wrote:

      > From: Archie <archevanbelle@ ...>

      > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat

      > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com

      > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 3:16 PM

      >

      >

      >

      >

      >

      >

      >

      >

      >

      >

      >

      > The hull was repaired five years ago and re-caulked 

      with a cement mixture. The boat has been stored all this time under

      a tarp, protected from the weather, but some of the seams have

      opened up do to continued shrinking of the planks. To repair this do

      we have to take out the existing caulking or can we just fill up the

      new cracks with some other type of caulking?

      >

      > Archie

      >

      >

      >

      > Arch E. Van Belle

      >

      >

      >

      > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ yahoo. com> wrote:

      >

      >

      >

      > From: JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ yahoo. com>

      >

      > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat

      >

      > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com

      >

      > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 1:01 PM

      >

      >

      >

      > Hi Archie...I have been rebuilding a 22ft Dolly Varden, built in

      1936. Perhaps I can help. What is it you want to know exactly.

      >

      > Joaquin

      >

      >

      >

      > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, archevanbelle <archevanbelle@ yahoo.com>

      wrote:

      >

      > From: archevanbelle <archevanbelle@ yahoo.com>

      >

      > Subject: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat

      >

      > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com

      >

      > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 8:16 AM

      >

      >

      >

      > Hi All,

      >

      >

      >

      > Does anyone out there have experience restoring a vintage wooden

      boat?

      >

      >

      >

      > We have a 38' Atkins designed wooden sailboat built in 1935 and we

      have

      >

      >

      >

      > several question on the restoration, especially the hull.

      >

      >

      >

      > Archie

      >

      >

      >

      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

      >

      >

      >

      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

      >

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      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

      >





























      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Giuliano Girometta
      If the boat is carvel planking, to epoxy the planks is not a good idea, the planking is supposed to expand when in the water and seal the gaps. Epoxy will slow
      Message 2 of 19 , Aug 27 4:24 PM
      • 0 Attachment
        If the boat is carvel planking, to epoxy the planks is not a good idea, the planking is supposed to expand when in the water and seal the gaps. Epoxy will slow down the swelling process.
        Furthermore, the epoxy will not stick and will crack on the caulking. This will allow moisture to penetrate the planking at the cracked seems and the rot will start because the epoxy will try to maintain the moisture inside.
         
        Cold moulded, strip planked and plywood are ok with epoxy.
         
        Giuliano

        --- On Wed, 8/27/08, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@...> wrote:

        From: JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@...>
        Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
        To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 1:36 PM






        I have worked on boats all my life, and never had a problem with epoxy-saturation techniques. on a boat built more than 60 years ago, there would be no problem. I always refere to West System Manuals.

        --- On Tue, 8/26/08, gordocutter_ 1 <gordocutter_ 1@.... br> wrote:
        From: gordocutter_ 1 <gordocutter_ 1@.... br>
        Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
        To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
        Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 11:09 AM

        I dind't know that traditional plank on edge hulls could be coat

        with epoxi. I've heard that due to the shrink of the planks the

        epoxi would not seal the hull the same way that a strip planking,

        cold molded or ply construction can be with epoxi.

        Adaucto

        --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ ...>

        wrote:

        >

        > Hi Archie...if possible, take the old caulking out. I used  5200

        Fast Cure in the seams, because the boat is on a trailer now, and

        not in the water all the time. the builder put a keel on her, which

        was not part of the original design, so i removed it and put in a

        centerboard case and centerboard. a good idea is to get the west

        system book on Wooden Boat Restoration and Repair. I have also

        sealed the hull with several coats of epoxy, and used epoxy,Valspar

        enamel on the Interior/Exterior, and all new wood is coated with

        epoxy before painting, and clear urethane on any varnish.

        > Joaquin

        >

        > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, Archie <archevanbelle@ ...> wrote:

        > From: Archie <archevanbelle@ ...>

        > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat

        > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com

        > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 3:16 PM

        >

        >

        >

        >

        >

        >

        >

        >

        >

        >

        >

        > The hull was repaired five years ago and re-caulked 

        with a cement mixture. The boat has been stored all this time under

        a tarp, protected from the weather, but some of the seams have

        opened up do to continued shrinking of the planks. To repair this do

        we have to take out the existing caulking or can we just fill up the

        new cracks with some other type of caulking?

        >

        > Archie

        >

        >

        >

        > Arch E. Van Belle

        >

        >

        >

        > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ yahoo. com> wrote:

        >

        >

        >

        > From: JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ yahoo. com>

        >

        > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat

        >

        > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com

        >

        > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 1:01 PM

        >

        >

        >

        > Hi Archie...I have been rebuilding a 22ft Dolly Varden, built in

        1936. Perhaps I can help. What is it you want to know exactly.

        >

        > Joaquin

        >

        >

        >

        > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, archevanbelle <archevanbelle@ yahoo.com>

        wrote:

        >

        > From: archevanbelle <archevanbelle@ yahoo.com>

        >

        > Subject: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat

        >

        > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com

        >

        > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 8:16 AM

        >

        >

        >

        > Hi All,

        >

        >

        >

        > Does anyone out there have experience restoring a vintage wooden

        boat?

        >

        >

        >

        > We have a 38' Atkins designed wooden sailboat built in 1935 and we

        have

        >

        >

        >

        > several question on the restoration, especially the hull.

        >

        >

        >

        > Archie

        >

        >

        >

        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

        >

        >

        >

        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

        >

        >

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        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

        >











        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


















        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • gordocutter_1
        That s exactly what I ve read about it. Sure I don t have the same experience of a life working with boats like Joaquim has, so I can only say what read or
        Message 3 of 19 , Aug 27 4:45 PM
        • 0 Attachment
          That's exactly what I've read about it. Sure I don't have the same
          experience of a life working with boats like Joaquim has, so I can
          only say what read or hear about it.
          Adaucto

          --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, Giuliano Girometta <ggboat1@...>
          wrote:
          >
          > If the boat is carvel planking, to epoxy the planks is not a good
          idea, the planking is supposed to expand when in the water and seal
          the gaps. Epoxy will slow down the swelling process.
          > Furthermore, the epoxy will not stick and will crack on the
          caulking. This will allow moisture to penetrate the planking at the
          cracked seems and the rot will start because the epoxy will try to
          maintain the moisture inside.
          >  
          > Cold moulded, strip planked and plywood are ok with epoxy.
          >  
          > Giuliano
          >
          > --- On Wed, 8/27/08, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@...> wrote:
          >
          > From: JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@...>
          > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
          > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
          > Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 1:36 PM
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > I have worked on boats all my life, and never had a problem with
          epoxy-saturation techniques. on a boat built more than 60 years ago,
          there would be no problem. I always refere to West System Manuals.
          >
          > --- On Tue, 8/26/08, gordocutter_ 1 <gordocutter_ 1@.... br>
          wrote:
          > From: gordocutter_ 1 <gordocutter_ 1@.... br>
          > Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
          > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
          > Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 11:09 AM
          >
          > I dind't know that traditional plank on edge hulls could be coat
          >
          > with epoxi. I've heard that due to the shrink of the planks the
          >
          > epoxi would not seal the hull the same way that a strip planking,
          >
          > cold molded or ply construction can be with epoxi.
          >
          > Adaucto
          >
          > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com, JOAQUIN OMAHONY
          <jqnomahony@ ...>
          >
          > wrote:
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Hi Archie...if possible, take the old caulking out. I used  5200
          >
          > Fast Cure in the seams, because the boat is on a trailer now, and
          >
          > not in the water all the time. the builder put a keel on her,
          which
          >
          > was not part of the original design, so i removed it and put in a
          >
          > centerboard case and centerboard. a good idea is to get the west
          >
          > system book on Wooden Boat Restoration and Repair. I have also
          >
          > sealed the hull with several coats of epoxy, and used
          epoxy,Valspar
          >
          > enamel on the Interior/Exterior, and all new wood is coated with
          >
          > epoxy before painting, and clear urethane on any varnish.
          >
          > > Joaquin
          >
          > >
          >
          > > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, Archie <archevanbelle@ ...> wrote:
          >
          > > From: Archie <archevanbelle@ ...>
          >
          > > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
          >
          > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
          >
          > > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 3:16 PM
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > The hull was repaired five years ago and re-caulked 
          >
          > with a cement mixture. The boat has been stored all this time
          under
          >
          > a tarp, protected from the weather, but some of the seams have
          >
          > opened up do to continued shrinking of the planks. To repair this
          do
          >
          > we have to take out the existing caulking or can we just fill up
          the
          >
          > new cracks with some other type of caulking?
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Archie
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Arch E. Van Belle
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ yahoo. com>
          wrote:
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > From: JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ yahoo. com>
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
          >
          > >
          >
          > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 1:01 PM
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Hi Archie...I have been rebuilding a 22ft Dolly Varden, built in
          >
          > 1936. Perhaps I can help. What is it you want to know exactly.
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Joaquin
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, archevanbelle <archevanbelle@ yahoo.com>
          >
          > wrote:
          >
          > >
          >
          > > From: archevanbelle <archevanbelle@ yahoo.com>
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Subject: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
          >
          > >
          >
          > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 8:16 AM
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Hi All,
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Does anyone out there have experience restoring a vintage wooden
          >
          > boat?
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > We have a 38' Atkins designed wooden sailboat built in 1935 and
          we
          >
          > have
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > several question on the restoration, especially the hull.
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Archie
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
          >
          > >
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          > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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        • gordocutter_1
          I ve been thinking, what if you put a layer of veneer over a carvel hull with epoxi, would this solve the problem of the shrinking and swelling? For example
          Message 4 of 19 , Aug 27 5:01 PM
          • 0 Attachment
            I've been thinking, what if you put a layer of veneer over a carvel
            hull with epoxi, would this solve the problem of the shrinking and
            swelling? For example putting a layer of veneer say at 45° or 90°
            over the carvel hull maybe this would work like form to stabilize
            the planks (like a cold molded would) and if you encapsulate the
            hull isolating it from the air this could stop the work of the wood.
            Adaucto



            --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "gordocutter_1"
            <gordocutter_1@...> wrote:
            >
            > That's exactly what I've read about it. Sure I don't have the same
            > experience of a life working with boats like Joaquim has, so I can
            > only say what read or hear about it.
            > Adaucto
            >
            > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, Giuliano Girometta <ggboat1@>
            > wrote:
            > >
            > > If the boat is carvel planking, to epoxy the planks is not a
            good
            > idea, the planking is supposed to expand when in the water and
            seal
            > the gaps. Epoxy will slow down the swelling process.
            > > Furthermore, the epoxy will not stick and will crack on the
            > caulking. This will allow moisture to penetrate the planking at
            the
            > cracked seems and the rot will start because the epoxy will try to
            > maintain the moisture inside.
            > >  
            > > Cold moulded, strip planked and plywood are ok with epoxy.
            > >  
            > > Giuliano
            > >
            > > --- On Wed, 8/27/08, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@> wrote:
            > >
            > > From: JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@>
            > > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
            > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
            > > Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 1:36 PM
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > I have worked on boats all my life, and never had a problem with
            > epoxy-saturation techniques. on a boat built more than 60 years
            ago,
            > there would be no problem. I always refere to West System Manuals.
            > >
            > > --- On Tue, 8/26/08, gordocutter_ 1 <gordocutter_ 1@....
            br>
            > wrote:
            > > From: gordocutter_ 1 <gordocutter_ 1@.... br>
            > > Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
            > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
            > > Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 11:09 AM
            > >
            > > I dind't know that traditional plank on edge hulls could be coat
            > >
            > > with epoxi. I've heard that due to the shrink of the planks the
            > >
            > > epoxi would not seal the hull the same way that a strip
            planking,
            > >
            > > cold molded or ply construction can be with epoxi.
            > >
            > > Adaucto
            > >
            > > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com, JOAQUIN OMAHONY
            > <jqnomahony@ ...>
            > >
            > > wrote:
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > Hi Archie...if possible, take the old caulking out. I used 
            5200
            > >
            > > Fast Cure in the seams, because the boat is on a trailer now,
            and
            > >
            > > not in the water all the time. the builder put a keel on her,
            > which
            > >
            > > was not part of the original design, so i removed it and put in
            a
            > >
            > > centerboard case and centerboard. a good idea is to get the west
            > >
            > > system book on Wooden Boat Restoration and Repair. I have also
            > >
            > > sealed the hull with several coats of epoxy, and used
            > epoxy,Valspar
            > >
            > > enamel on the Interior/Exterior, and all new wood is coated with
            > >
            > > epoxy before painting, and clear urethane on any varnish.
            > >
            > > > Joaquin
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, Archie <archevanbelle@ ...> wrote:
            > >
            > > > From: Archie <archevanbelle@ ...>
            > >
            > > > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
            > >
            > > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
            > >
            > > > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 3:16 PM
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > The hull was repaired five years ago and re-caulked 
            > >
            > > with a cement mixture. The boat has been stored all this time
            > under
            > >
            > > a tarp, protected from the weather, but some of the seams have
            > >
            > > opened up do to continued shrinking of the planks. To repair
            this
            > do
            > >
            > > we have to take out the existing caulking or can we just fill up
            > the
            > >
            > > new cracks with some other type of caulking?
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > Archie
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > Arch E. Van Belle
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ yahoo. com>
            > wrote:
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > From: JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ yahoo. com>
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 1:01 PM
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > Hi Archie...I have been rebuilding a 22ft Dolly Varden, built
            in
            > >
            > > 1936. Perhaps I can help. What is it you want to know exactly.
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > Joaquin
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, archevanbelle <archevanbelle@ yahoo.com>
            > >
            > > wrote:
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > From: archevanbelle <archevanbelle@ yahoo.com>
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > Subject: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 8:16 AM
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > Hi All,
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > Does anyone out there have experience restoring a vintage
            wooden
            > >
            > > boat?
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > We have a 38' Atkins designed wooden sailboat built in 1935
            and
            > we
            > >
            > > have
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > several question on the restoration, especially the hull.
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > Archie
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
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            > >
            > > >
            > >
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            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
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            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > >
            > >
            > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > >
            > > >
            > >
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            > >
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            > >
            >
          • Giuliano Girometta
            I don t think will be a good idea. I am now talking about my professional experience with furniture manufacturing and restoring. The application of veneer to a
            Message 5 of 19 , Aug 27 8:29 PM
            • 0 Attachment
              I don't think will be a good idea.
              I am now talking about my professional experience with furniture manufacturing and restoring.
              The application of veneer to a solid core need the veneer to be applied to both sides in order to stabilize the wood and avoid the warping of the core..
              The core must be of a very stable wood, otherwise the veneer is going to blister.
              My personal opinion and also experience is that each time you are trying to take a shortcut, you end up to spend more money and labor than doing the work right the first time.
              Furthermore, caulking is just a simple operation that can be repeated over and over each time is needed, and require just two basic hand tools. While other approaches such veneering will require a complete stripping of the old coatings and bring the hull down to bare wood, otherwise there is no good adhesion, you will have to use a vacum pressing system and the cost for the veneer will be outrageous. Then you have to re-prime and re-paint the hull completly. (Whrew is the saving?).
              Caulking only need a caulking iron and a mallet and some cotton or oakum.
              Bevare of the specialty products that dno't need the cotton, I heared bad thinks about such great convenience and fast applications, and then will take you ten time more than the time of caulking just to go all over with a razor blade and remove that junk from the seams.
               
              There i a great book on the market called " Buehler's Backyard Boatbuilding" a lot of good topics and instructions.
               
              Giuliano

              --- On Thu, 8/28/08, gordocutter_1 <gordocutter_1@...> wrote:

              From: gordocutter_1 <gordocutter_1@...>
              Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
              To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
              Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008, 12:01 AM






              I've been thinking, what if you put a layer of veneer over a carvel
              hull with epoxi, would this solve the problem of the shrinking and
              swelling? For example putting a layer of veneer say at 45° or 90°
              over the carvel hull maybe this would work like form to stabilize
              the planks (like a cold molded would) and if you encapsulate the
              hull isolating it from the air this could stop the work of the wood.
              Adaucto

              --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com, "gordocutter_ 1"
              <gordocutter_ 1@...> wrote:
              >
              > That's exactly what I've read about it. Sure I don't have the same
              > experience of a life working with boats like Joaquim has, so I can
              > only say what read or hear about it.
              > Adaucto
              >
              > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com, Giuliano Girometta <ggboat1@>
              > wrote:
              > >
              > > If the boat is carvel planking, to epoxy the planks is not a
              good
              > idea, the planking is supposed to expand when in the water and
              seal
              > the gaps. Epoxy will slow down the swelling process.
              > > Furthermore, the epoxy will not stick and will crack on the
              > caulking. This will allow moisture to penetrate the planking at
              the
              > cracked seems and the rot will start because the epoxy will try to
              > maintain the moisture inside.
              > >  
              > > Cold moulded, strip planked and plywood are ok with epoxy.
              > >  
              > > Giuliano
              > >
              > > --- On Wed, 8/27/08, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ > wrote:
              > >
              > > From: JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ >
              > > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
              > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
              > > Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 1:36 PM
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > I have worked on boats all my life, and never had a problem with
              > epoxy-saturation techniques. on a boat built more than 60 years
              ago,
              > there would be no problem. I always refere to West System Manuals.
              > >
              > > --- On Tue, 8/26/08, gordocutter_ 1 <gordocutter_ 1@....
              br>
              > wrote:
              > > From: gordocutter_ 1 <gordocutter_ 1@.... br>
              > > Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Restoring a vintage wooden boat
              > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
              > > Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 11:09 AM
              > >
              > > I dind't know that traditional plank on edge hulls could be coat
              > >
              > > with epoxi. I've heard that due to the shrink of the planks the
              > >
              > > epoxi would not seal the hull the same way that a strip
              planking,
              > >
              > > cold molded or ply construction can be with epoxi.
              > >
              > > Adaucto
              > >
              > > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com, JOAQUIN OMAHONY
              > <jqnomahony@ ...>
              > >
              > > wrote:
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > Hi Archie...if possible, take the old caulking out. I used 
              5200
              > >
              > > Fast Cure in the seams, because the boat is on a trailer now,
              and
              > >
              > > not in the water all the time. the builder put a keel on her,
              > which
              > >
              > > was not part of the original design, so i removed it and put in
              a
              > >
              > > centerboard case and centerboard. a good idea is to get the west
              > >
              > > system book on Wooden Boat Restoration and Repair. I have also
              > >
              > > sealed the hull with several coats of epoxy, and used
              > epoxy,Valspar
              > >
              > > enamel on the Interior/Exterior, and all new wood is coated with
              > >
              > > epoxy before painting, and clear urethane on any varnish.
              > >
              > > > Joaquin
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, Archie <archevanbelle@ ...> wrote:
              > >
              > > > From: Archie <archevanbelle@ ...>
              > >
              > > > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
              > >
              > > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
              > >
              > > > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 3:16 PM
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > The hull was repaired five years ago and re-caulked 
              > >
              > > with a cement mixture. The boat has been stored all this time
              > under
              > >
              > > a tarp, protected from the weather, but some of the seams have
              > >
              > > opened up do to continued shrinking of the planks. To repair
              this
              > do
              > >
              > > we have to take out the existing caulking or can we just fill up
              > the
              > >
              > > new cracks with some other type of caulking?
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > Archie
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > Arch E. Van Belle
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ yahoo. com>
              > wrote:
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > From: JOAQUIN OMAHONY <jqnomahony@ yahoo. com>
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 1:01 PM
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > Hi Archie...I have been rebuilding a 22ft Dolly Varden, built
              in
              > >
              > > 1936. Perhaps I can help. What is it you want to know exactly.
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > Joaquin
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > --- On Mon, 8/25/08, archevanbelle <archevanbelle@ yahoo.com>
              > >
              > > wrote:
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > From: archevanbelle <archevanbelle@ yahoo.com>
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > Subject: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogro ups.com
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 8:16 AM
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > Hi All,
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > Does anyone out there have experience restoring a vintage
              wooden
              > >
              > > boat?
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > We have a 38' Atkins designed wooden sailboat built in 1935
              and
              > we
              > >
              > > have
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > several question on the restoration, especially the hull.
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > Archie
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > >
              > > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > >
              > >
              > >
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              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > >
              >


















              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • John Kohnen
              Good advice, Giuliano! The old ways work, as Pete Culler used to tell us. A properly cared for traditionally built boat is just about immortal, cause you
              Message 6 of 19 , Aug 27 10:55 PM
              • 0 Attachment
                Good advice, Giuliano! "The old ways work," as Pete Culler used to tell
                us. A properly cared for traditionally built boat is just about immortal,
                'cause you can just keep fixing it and replacing parts as needed. Trying
                to combine modern boatbuilding techniques with old may work in the short
                run, but will be a disaster down the line.

                Several years ago an interesting couple who live on their boat in South
                Georgia (the island) had their worn out, carvel planked cutter rejuvenated
                by having several layers of veneers "cold-molded " over the outside of the
                hull. The operation was apparently a success, 'cause last I heard they
                were still living on the boat down in those cold climes. Rot doesn't like
                cold. <g> Their fix was kind of like what Allan Vaitses used to promote
                for getting a few more seasons out of an old fishing boat by fiberglassing
                it. It'll work for a while, maybe a long while someplace like the
                Antarctic, but when it goes bad the only thing the boat will be good for
                is firewood. But the couple from South Georgia's boat was written up in
                Wooden Boat, so people all over the place started thinking that a
                cold-molded shell was a good way to "save" an old boat. <sigh>

                A few years ago a fellow I know slightly bought an old British
                double-ended sailboat that had been treated to the cold-molding fix. She
                looked fine outside, and a quick glance inside didn't look too bad. One
                day he had to cut through the cold-molded shell for some reason. What he
                found was a layer of compost between the shell and a thin layer of halfway
                decent wood that was what you'd seen in your quick glance inside. He
                stripped off all the cold-molded shell and found there was scarcely a
                single plank worth saving. He gave up and the boatyard broke up the
                derelict hulk a few months ago. :o( Don't do it!

                The cotton or oakum is the caulking, any goop is just "seam compound" to
                fair the seam. The cotton or oakum doesn't just keep water out, it
                stiffens the hull. Trying to replace real caulking with goop is a criminal
                delusion.

                On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:29:58 -0700, Giuliano G wrote:

                > ...
                > My personal opinion and also experience is that each time you are trying
                > to take a shortcut, you end up to spend more money and labor than doing
                > the work right the first time.
                > ...
                > Bevare of the specialty products that dno't need the cotton, I heared
                > bad thinks about such great convenience and fast applications, and then
                > will take you ten time more than the time of caulking just to go all
                > over with a razor blade and remove that junk from the seams.
                >  ...

                --
                John <jkohnen@...>
                No man is justified in doing evil on the ground of expediency.
                <Franklin D. Roosevelt>
              • John Kohnen
                That cement stuff is just seam compound. The real caulking is the cotton or oakum stuffed into the seams beneath the seam compound. Clean all the old seam
                Message 7 of 19 , Aug 27 11:12 PM
                • 0 Attachment
                  That cement stuff is just seam compound. The real caulking is the cotton
                  or oakum stuffed into the seams beneath the seam compound. Clean all the
                  old seam compound out of the seams and then check the caulking to make
                  sure it's tight. Caulking is kind of an art, though anyone can pick it up
                  well enough, so I'm told. Around the boatyards where I hang out the
                  fishermen teach each other how to caulk, and other tricks of boat repair.
                  Ask around your boatyard and you'll probably find someone to show you the
                  rudiments of caulking. I sure hope there are some wooden boats other than
                  yours there though! Out here we're still blessed with a lot of wooden
                  fishing boats.

                  I shudder whenever I see that cement seam compound. <shudder> It doesn't
                  have any give, so it can damage the plank edges if they swell overmuch,
                  and it doesn't do any good if the planks shrink. But the fishermen seem to
                  love it, and some of their boats have lasted a long, long time. <shrug> A
                  common recipe involves Portland cement and roofing tar. It stays soft
                  until the boat hits the water and it's planks swell up, but then hardens.
                  Many of the fishermen only use the cement compound on the topsides, using
                  straight roofing tar below the waterline. I think it's worth the extra
                  cost to use a real, non-hardening seam compound.

                  Good luck with you project!

                  On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 15:16:58 -0700, Archie wrote:

                  > The hull was repaired five years ago and re-caulked  with a cement
                  > mixture. The boat has been stored all this time under a tarp, protected
                  > from the weather, but some of the seams have opened up do to continued
                  > shrinking of the planks. To repair this do we have to take out the
                  > existing caulking or can we just fill up the new cracks with some other
                  > type of caulking?

                  --
                  John <jkohnen@...>
                  It s a damn poor mind that can think of only one way to spell a
                  word! <Attributed to Andrew Jackson>
                • gordocutter_1
                  Thanks for the tips friends. I thought that this could work because I saw in the Gartside s website a double planked hull that use epoxi so I figured that this
                  Message 8 of 19 , Aug 28 8:05 AM
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Thanks for the tips friends. I thought that this could work because
                    I saw in the Gartside's website a double planked hull that use epoxi
                    so I figured that this could work with traditional plank on edge
                    with veneer.

                    Adaucto


                    --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "John Kohnen" <jkohnen@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > Good advice, Giuliano! "The old ways work," as Pete Culler used to
                    tell
                    > us. A properly cared for traditionally built boat is just about
                    immortal,
                    > 'cause you can just keep fixing it and replacing parts as needed.
                    Trying
                    > to combine modern boatbuilding techniques with old may work in the
                    short
                    > run, but will be a disaster down the line.
                    >
                    > Several years ago an interesting couple who live on their boat in
                    South
                    > Georgia (the island) had their worn out, carvel planked cutter
                    rejuvenated
                    > by having several layers of veneers "cold-molded " over the
                    outside of the
                    > hull. The operation was apparently a success, 'cause last I heard
                    they
                    > were still living on the boat down in those cold climes. Rot
                    doesn't like
                    > cold. <g> Their fix was kind of like what Allan Vaitses used to
                    promote
                    > for getting a few more seasons out of an old fishing boat by
                    fiberglassing
                    > it. It'll work for a while, maybe a long while someplace like the
                    > Antarctic, but when it goes bad the only thing the boat will be
                    good for
                    > is firewood. But the couple from South Georgia's boat was written
                    up in
                    > Wooden Boat, so people all over the place started thinking that a
                    > cold-molded shell was a good way to "save" an old boat. <sigh>
                    >
                    > A few years ago a fellow I know slightly bought an old British
                    > double-ended sailboat that had been treated to the cold-molding
                    fix. She
                    > looked fine outside, and a quick glance inside didn't look too
                    bad. One
                    > day he had to cut through the cold-molded shell for some reason.
                    What he
                    > found was a layer of compost between the shell and a thin layer of
                    halfway
                    > decent wood that was what you'd seen in your quick glance inside.
                    He
                    > stripped off all the cold-molded shell and found there was
                    scarcely a
                    > single plank worth saving. He gave up and the boatyard broke up
                    the
                    > derelict hulk a few months ago. :o( Don't do it!
                    >
                    > The cotton or oakum is the caulking, any goop is just "seam
                    compound" to
                    > fair the seam. The cotton or oakum doesn't just keep water out,
                    it
                    > stiffens the hull. Trying to replace real caulking with goop is a
                    criminal
                    > delusion.
                    >
                    > On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:29:58 -0700, Giuliano G wrote:
                    >
                    > > ...
                    > > My personal opinion and also experience is that each time you
                    are trying
                    > > to take a shortcut, you end up to spend more money and labor
                    than doing
                    > > the work right the first time.
                    > > ...
                    > > Bevare of the specialty products that dno't need the cotton, I
                    heared
                    > > bad thinks about such great convenience and fast applications,
                    and then
                    > > will take you ten time more than the time of caulking just to go
                    all
                    > > over with a razor blade and remove that junk from the seams.
                    > >  ...
                    >
                    > --
                    > John <jkohnen@...>
                    > No man is justified in doing evil on the ground of expediency.
                    > <Franklin D. Roosevelt>
                    >
                  • Archie
                    Thanks for the information. We are located near Port Townsend Washington and are looking for someone that can help. Arch E. Van Belle ... From: John Kohnen
                    Message 9 of 19 , Aug 29 6:39 AM
                    • 0 Attachment
                      Thanks for the information. We are located near Port Townsend Washington and are looking for someone that can help.

                      Arch E. Van Belle

                      --- On Wed, 8/27/08, John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:

                      From: John Kohnen <jkohnen@...>
                      Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
                      To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
                      Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 11:12 PM

                      That cement stuff is just seam compound. The real caulking is the cotton
                      or oakum stuffed into the seams beneath the seam compound. Clean all the
                      old seam compound out of the seams and then check the caulking to make
                      sure it's tight. Caulking is kind of an art, though anyone can pick it up
                      well enough, so I'm told. Around the boatyards where I hang out the
                      fishermen teach each other how to caulk, and other tricks of boat repair.
                      Ask around your boatyard and you'll probably find someone to show you the
                      rudiments of caulking. I sure hope there are some wooden boats other than
                      yours there though! Out here we're still blessed with a lot of wooden
                      fishing boats.

                      I shudder whenever I see that cement seam compound. <shudder> It
                      doesn't
                      have any give, so it can damage the plank edges if they swell overmuch,
                      and it doesn't do any good if the planks shrink. But the fishermen seem to

                      love it, and some of their boats have lasted a long, long time. <shrug> A

                      common recipe involves Portland cement and roofing tar. It stays soft
                      until the boat hits the water and it's planks swell up, but then hardens.
                      Many of the fishermen only use the cement compound on the topsides, using
                      straight roofing tar below the waterline. I think it's worth the extra
                      cost to use a real, non-hardening seam compound.

                      Good luck with you project!

                      On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 15:16:58 -0700, Archie wrote:

                      > The hull was repaired five years ago and re-caulked  with a cement
                      > mixture. The boat has been stored all this time under a tarp, protected
                      > from the weather, but some of the seams have opened up do to continued
                      > shrinking of the planks. To repair this do we have to take out the
                      > existing caulking or can we just fill up the new cracks with some other
                      > type of caulking?

                      --
                      John <jkohnen@...>
                      It s a damn poor mind that can think of only one way to spell a
                      word! <Attributed to Andrew Jackson>

                      ------------------------------------

                      No flaming, cursing, politics, religion or public mopery. Please be polite.

                      If you set out to build an Atkin boat, please do not modify the plans. If you
                      stray from the plans you do so at your own risk and Atkin & Co. will take no
                      responsibility for the performance of the resulting boat.

                      The current Atkin boat plans catalog is online at
                      <http://www.atkinboatplans.com/>

                      Yahoo! Groups Links





                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • John Kohnen
                      You re in luck! There are lots of people around Port Townsend who know about wooden boats. Where is your boat? Maybe I can stop and look at it when I m up that
                      Message 10 of 19 , Aug 30 12:14 AM
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                        You're in luck! There are lots of people around Port Townsend who know
                        about wooden boats. Where is your boat? Maybe I can stop and look at it
                        when I'm up that way next week for the Festival.

                        On Fri, 29 Aug 2008 06:39:08 -0700, Archie wrote:

                        > Thanks for the information. We are located near Port Townsend Washington
                        > and are looking for someone that can help.

                        --
                        John <jkohnen@...>
                        What is more pleasant than a friendly little yacht, a long
                        stretch of smooth water, a gentle breeze, the stars? <Billy Atkin>
                      • Archie
                        That would be great. We plan to go to the festival our self. We are located at 1488 Shine Road, Port Ludlow. If you come by way of the Hood Canal floating
                        Message 11 of 19 , Aug 30 7:59 AM
                        • 0 Attachment
                          That would be great. We plan to go to the festival our self.
                          We are located at 1488 Shine Road, Port Ludlow. If you come by way of the Hood Canal floating bridge, you would take the first left turn after crossing the bridge. We are about 1.5 miles down that road on the south side of the road. My cell phone number is 425-218-4111

                          Arch E. Van Belle

                          --- On Sat, 8/30/08, John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:

                          From: John Kohnen <jkohnen@...>
                          Subject: Re: [AtkinBoats] Restoring a vintage wooden boat
                          To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
                          Date: Saturday, August 30, 2008, 12:14 AM

                          You're in luck! There are lots of people around Port Townsend who know
                          about wooden boats. Where is your boat? Maybe I can stop and look at it
                          when I'm up that way next week for the Festival.

                          On Fri, 29 Aug 2008 06:39:08 -0700, Archie wrote:

                          > Thanks for the information. We are located near Port Townsend Washington
                          > and are looking for someone that can help.

                          --
                          John <jkohnen@...>
                          What is more pleasant than a friendly little yacht, a long
                          stretch of smooth water, a gentle breeze, the stars? <Billy Atkin>

                          ------------------------------------

                          No flaming, cursing, politics, religion or public mopery. Please be polite.

                          If you set out to build an Atkin boat, please do not modify the plans. If you
                          stray from the plans you do so at your own risk and Atkin & Co. will take no
                          responsibility for the performance of the resulting boat.

                          The current Atkin boat plans catalog is online at
                          <http://www.atkinboatplans.com/>

                          Yahoo! Groups Links





                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        • John Kohnen
                          I won t be going near no floating bridge if I can help it! The drive down the west side of Hood Canal is much nicer, and more relaxing after all the
                          Message 12 of 19 , Sep 2, 2008
                          • 0 Attachment
                            I won't be going near no floating bridge if I can help it! <g> The drive
                            down the west side of Hood Canal is much nicer, and more relaxing after
                            all the freeway from Oregon to Shelton. But I'll plan to stop by your
                            place either on the way to PT tomorrow, or on the way home Monday.

                            I'm going to have my odd little camp cruiser on display. All Atkin boat
                            nuts are invited to stop by and BS about boats.

                            http://tinyurl.com/67z4cj

                            A bunch of unconventional boat nuts meet at the Otter Crossing for brunch
                            Saturday at 10:00. If you're of a Coot-like disposition you're invited to
                            join us.

                            Should be a good show this year. The weather sounds like it's gonna be
                            perfect -- sunny but not too warm. :o)

                            On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 07:59:52 -0700, Archie wrote:

                            > That would be great. We plan to go to the festival our self.
                            > We are located at 1488 Shine Road, Port Ludlow. If you come by way of
                            > the Hood Canal floating bridge, you would take the first left turn after
                            > crossing the bridge. We are about 1.5 miles down that road on the south
                            > side of the road. My cell phone number is 425-218-4111
                            >
                            --
                            John <jkohnen@...>
                            Nobody ought to wear a Greek fisherman's hat unless they meet
                            two conditions: 1. He is a Greek; 2. He is a Fisherman <Roy
                            Blount Jr.>
                          • Archie
                            I will be here tomorrow and will be working on the boat. I will be out of town on Monday so I hope you can make it tomorrow. If not, I will look for you at the
                            Message 13 of 19 , Sep 2, 2008
                            • 0 Attachment
                              I will be here tomorrow and will be working on the boat. I will be out of town on Monday so I hope you can make it tomorrow. If not, I will look for you at the Festival on Friday.

                              Arch E. Van Belle

                              --- On Tue, 9/2/08, John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:

                              From: John Kohnen <jkohnen@...>
                              Subject: [AtkinBoats] Port Townsend Festival
                              To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
                              Date: Tuesday, September 2, 2008, 6:32 PM

                              I won't be going near no floating bridge if I can help it! <g> The
                              drive
                              down the west side of Hood Canal is much nicer, and more relaxing after
                              all the freeway from Oregon to Shelton. But I'll plan to stop by your
                              place either on the way to PT tomorrow, or on the way home Monday.

                              I'm going to have my odd little camp cruiser on display. All Atkin boat
                              nuts are invited to stop by and BS about boats.

                              http://tinyurl.com/67z4cj

                              A bunch of unconventional boat nuts meet at the Otter Crossing for brunch
                              Saturday at 10:00. If you're of a Coot-like disposition you're invited
                              to
                              join us.

                              Should be a good show this year. The weather sounds like it's gonna be
                              perfect -- sunny but not too warm. :o)

                              On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 07:59:52 -0700, Archie wrote:

                              > That would be great. We plan to go to the festival our self.
                              > We are located at 1488 Shine Road, Port Ludlow. If you come by way of
                              > the Hood Canal floating bridge, you would take the first left turn after
                              > crossing the bridge. We are about 1.5 miles down that road on the south
                              > side of the road. My cell phone number is 425-218-4111
                              >
                              --
                              John <jkohnen@...>
                              Nobody ought to wear a Greek fisherman's hat unless they meet
                              two conditions: 1. He is a Greek; 2. He is a Fisherman <Roy
                              Blount Jr.>

                              ------------------------------------

                              No flaming, cursing, politics, religion or public mopery. Please be polite.

                              If you set out to build an Atkin boat, please do not modify the plans. If you
                              stray from the plans you do so at your own risk and Atkin & Co. will take no
                              responsibility for the performance of the resulting boat.

                              The current Atkin boat plans catalog is online at
                              <http://www.atkinboatplans.com/>

                              Yahoo! Groups Links





                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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