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Re: Newbie with questions on Hope

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  • Steve
    I have recently built a Hope . I put a small keelson on, starting at Frame 5 and ending just past Frame 10. The bottom of the keelson was parallel with the
    Message 1 of 7 , Jun 2, 2008
      I have recently built a "Hope". I put a small keelson on, starting at
      Frame 5 and ending just past Frame 10. The bottom of the keelson was
      parallel with the DWL, so the boat would sit level on it.It was 1 1/2"
      wide hardwood. In retrospect, it was probably too small as the boat
      was very skittish in a cross breeze, and one had to be very assertive
      when docking. Could have had something to do with the extra windage of
      the larger cabin, but still think this keelson would be a minimum.


      --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "gress.gag54" <gress.gag54@...> wrote:
      >
      > Tom, Plans do not call for anything more as far as worm shoe or false
      > keel. If I do build it, it'll be a few more years when I retire. Plans
      > call for batten seam construction and that's how I would build it, I
      > can't stand working with epoxy, so I would never finish it cold molded.
      > I have thought about a skeg, but am undecided. It would be used mostly
      > on the upper Mississippi from Minneapolis south. Greg
      > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Hesselink" <quietboats@>
      > wrote:
      > >
      > > Greg, I think your given dimensions are certainly more realistic and
      > > workable--I would use as thick of keel and apron as can be bent over
      > > the station molds. Even a 3/4" oak apron would have a tendency to
      > > split from the planking screws. Do the plans call for an additional
      > > false keel or worm shoe on the bottom of the hull? I would think
      > > that 1.5" below the planking would not be too much--you will want
      > > something there to help with tracking in a cross wind. I do like
      > > this design. Where do you plan to use the boat? Are you planing to
      > > use carvel planking or cold mold/strip planking? Best, Tom
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "gress.gag54" gress.gag54@
      > > wrote:
      > > >
      > > > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Hesselink" <quietboats@>
      > > > wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > Greg, my first thought is that 7/8" is way too thin for a keel on
      > > > 26'
      > > > > cruiser. Are you sure that is correct? I am not familar with
      > > > > Atkin's scantlings on this size of boat but I would guess
      > > somthing
      > > > > much more substainal would be in order. Nice boat by the way.
      > > > Good
      > > > > luck.
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "gress.gag54" <gress.gag54@>
      > > > > wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Hi all,
      > > > > > Long time lurker, just joined the group. I recenly recieved
      > > > > > my plans for the cruiser Hope, and am having a problem with
      > > > > > the table of offets. William states that the keel is to be
      > > > > > w. oak 7/8" x 6" with a 1/2" x 8" batten. The offsets show the
      > > > > > rabbet to be 1" higher than the bottom of the keel, this puts
      > > > > > it 1/8" above the top of the keel and through the keel batten.
      > > > > > Example: heights above base at sta. 5 keel 0-9-3/8", rabbet
      > > > > > 0-10-3/8". Am I misunderstanding this, or is something wrong?
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Greg Gress
      > > > > >
      > > > > Michael, Tom,
      > > >
      > > > Thanks for the responses. Some of the scantlings are on the prints,
      > > > and some are in the Rudder how-to article. In the article Billy
      > > > writes, "The keel will be made of white oak 7/8-inch thick by 6
      > > > inches wide. There is an apron piece 1/2" thick by 8" wide white
      > > > oak". I understand all this and that the apron forms the rabbet.
      > > The
      > > > keel standing proud of the planking 1" though, is not possible. My
      > > > thoughts are to use a keel 1 5/8" thick with an apron as he calls
      > > it
      > > > 3/4" thick, as not much material is left to screw to after beveling
      > > > the areas with more deadrise. The thicker material certainly can't
      > > > hurt anything other than adding a few pounds.
      > > >
      > > > Thanks, Greg Gress
      > > >
      > >
      >
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