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Re: [AtkinBoats] Little Effort modifications

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  • John Kohnen
    You ve been doing some good thinking. The floors aren t structurally important, so there s a little bit more headroom. Eliminating the beams and laminating the
    Message 1 of 6 , Nov 25, 2007
      You've been doing some good thinking. The floors aren't structurally
      important, so there's a little bit more headroom. Eliminating the beams
      and laminating the roof is a good idea. There are a couple of tricks to
      gain headroom without raising the cabin sides. One is to make a large
      companionway hatch and be satisfied with 51" of headroom only under the
      hatch (that's why you make it big <g>). Another trick is to increase the
      crown of the cabin top. That'll give you more headroom on the centerline,
      but it camouflages the extra height of the cabin. It may even have less
      effective windage than a cabin with higher sides.

      Pop-top cabins, though less extreme than the one on the skiff Dirt showed
      us, have been used for a long time on sailing yachts on the Norfolk Broads
      in England. Searching around on the 'net for Broads yachts may lead you to

      I forgot, what's that ideal engine you've got for Little Effort?

      On Fri, 23 Nov 2007 13:47:04 -0800, Andrew wrote:

      > I'm still kicking around the possibility of building Little Effort
      > ...
      > I'd like to have at least 51" of room at the centerline from
      > cabin sole to the deck house beams so that I can step, rather than
      > crawl, into the cabin and be able to sit upright on the low seats
      > without hitting my head. As drawn the plans provide 45", so I need to
      > pickup at least 6" somehow.
      > Whatever amount I can't get some other way I'll have to gain by
      > raising the cabin roof, but I'd like to do as little of that as
      > possible. Maybe 2 - 3 inches at most. I don't want to spoil the
      > charactor, or performance, of the boat.
      > I have two additional ideas. One is ommitting 3 floors under the
      > cabin foot well. Like Russell R, Little Effort has a crossed planked
      > bottom with side frames but no bottom frames. Unlike the outboard
      > version, however, L.E. has floors and floor boards. This extra
      > structure certainly makes for a stiffer bottom which may be neccessary
      > because of the inboard installation. But the floors do not attach to
      > the sides of the boat in any way, they just act as beams to hold up
      > the floor boards. I think, if neccessry, I could regain some of the
      > lost stiffness by putting a cabin sole directly on the keelsons by
      > either cross planking or with plywood. Also I am counting on the added
      > srenghth of the sheet plywood bottom I'll be using to add rigidity to
      > the structure, as opposed to the original cross planking. In anycase I
      > would gain 1 to 1 1/2 in.
      > My second idea is to use a laminated veneer cabin roof, rather
      > than the beams and planking specified. Somewhere I read of sombody
      > doing this. 3 or 4 layers of 1/8 plywood epoxy laminated in the crown
      > specified, perhaps fiberglassed both sides, ought to make a fairly
      > rigid panel, which could save another 1 1/2".
      > That would leave 3" or so to be made up by raising the cabin top.
      > ...

      John <jkohnen@...>
      If perfection were needed for friendship the world would be a
      wilderness for our love. <Thomas Jefferson>
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