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Re: Outboard as Inboard; Rescue Minor

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  • robrohdeszudy
    Hell, I forgot one really important point! If you mount a lower unit to the tunnel, you also have to move the water pump! There s no water in the tunnel in
    Message 1 of 2 , May 3 10:30 AM
      Hell, I forgot one really important point! If you mount a lower unit
      to the tunnel, you also have to move the water pump! There's no water
      in the tunnel in neutral. That pump has to be submerged AT START-UP
      or it won't last long at all. So on a Rescue Minor you need to get
      that thing forward and down into the aft end of the "box keel". This
      means belts and shafts adn bearings. And if you're doing that, you
      may as well move the whole damned powerhead over where Atkin wanted
      it so the tiller will work right. I'd figure on cogged belts and an
      intermediate shaft for the water pump. The cool thing is that the
      engine, pump and lower unit can all be turning different speeds. This
      might open up some options for pumps. (I'd never do all this work and
      use one of those damned outboard pumps.)

      --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, Rob Rohde-Szudy
      <robrohdeszudy@...> wrote:
      > I'd love to see Wes Farmer's dicsussion of how to convert an
      outboard powerhead to inboard. Robb: Please feel free to share the
      source when you get the chance.
      > I know a little about this, since I was considering it for a future
      Rescue Minor project. (When the wife lets me build another boat in a
      few years...) So to anyone thinking to "wing it", let me offer a few
      > First, like Robb said, it has to be 2-stroke and you have to flip
      the carb 90 degrees. But that's not all.
      > Second, you have to remember that an outboard powerhead is only
      designed to drain the cooling water when it's vertical. So you'd need
      to reconfigure the cooling passages so it would drain at rest. Take
      apart the powerhead enough to see the cooling passages and you'll see
      this ain't no picnic.
      > Third, there are crankcase bleeders to re-route. These things
      gather the oil and fuel that condenses in the crankcases at lower
      speeds and get it out of there. If you don't do this you get surging
      at low speeds adn badly fouled plugs. I think they just spit it into
      the cooling water, so you might want to arrange catch-jars instead.
      The trouble is that they grab the condensate from the lowest point of
      the crankcase, which moved. Again, no picnic.
      > So you see how it might be more work than it's worth to flip an
      outboard on its side.
      > But why would you WANT to? If you're going to try to use an
      outboard powerhead, use it vertical and use the existing outboard
      gearset for reduction and shifting!
      > This is not so simple as it seems, of course. Like Robb mentioned,
      you have to move the exhaust if you figure on bolting the cavitation
      plate to the tunnel. And you'd probably want to shorten the leg so
      it's not sticking 2 feet above the stern deck.
      > Another way would be to use a regular stuffing box and vibration
      coupler, then mount the outboard gears in a new gearbox. You need to
      know a machinist to make this work. And remember you'll need to run
      cooling lines THROUGH the lower unit oil. Those things rely on the
      water surrounding them to stay cool.
      > Best of luck to y'all. I still hope I'm the first to build a modern-
      day Rescue Minor, but I'll be damned excited to see the results if
      someone beats me to it. Especially in aluminum. Robb's been telling
      me it's a great idea but I have this fear it'd be noisy when I'm used
      to wood. Keep us posted!
      > --Rob Rohde-Szudy
      > Madison, WI
      > (You can read articles on my damned-fool notions on
      > ---------------------------------
      > Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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