Re: Outboard as Inboard; Rescue Minor
- Hell, I forgot one really important point! If you mount a lower unit
to the tunnel, you also have to move the water pump! There's no water
in the tunnel in neutral. That pump has to be submerged AT START-UP
or it won't last long at all. So on a Rescue Minor you need to get
that thing forward and down into the aft end of the "box keel". This
means belts and shafts adn bearings. And if you're doing that, you
may as well move the whole damned powerhead over where Atkin wanted
it so the tiller will work right. I'd figure on cogged belts and an
intermediate shaft for the water pump. The cool thing is that the
engine, pump and lower unit can all be turning different speeds. This
might open up some options for pumps. (I'd never do all this work and
use one of those damned outboard pumps.)
--- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, Rob Rohde-Szudy
>outboard powerhead to inboard. Robb: Please feel free to share the
> I'd love to see Wes Farmer's dicsussion of how to convert an
source when you get the chance.
>Rescue Minor project. (When the wife lets me build another boat in a
> I know a little about this, since I was considering it for a future
few years...) So to anyone thinking to "wing it", let me offer a few
>the carb 90 degrees. But that's not all.
> First, like Robb said, it has to be 2-stroke and you have to flip
>designed to drain the cooling water when it's vertical. So you'd need
> Second, you have to remember that an outboard powerhead is only
to reconfigure the cooling passages so it would drain at rest. Take
apart the powerhead enough to see the cooling passages and you'll see
this ain't no picnic.
>gather the oil and fuel that condenses in the crankcases at lower
> Third, there are crankcase bleeders to re-route. These things
speeds and get it out of there. If you don't do this you get surging
at low speeds adn badly fouled plugs. I think they just spit it into
the cooling water, so you might want to arrange catch-jars instead.
The trouble is that they grab the condensate from the lowest point of
the crankcase, which moved. Again, no picnic.
>outboard on its side.
> So you see how it might be more work than it's worth to flip an
>outboard powerhead, use it vertical and use the existing outboard
> But why would you WANT to? If you're going to try to use an
gearset for reduction and shifting!
>you have to move the exhaust if you figure on bolting the cavitation
> This is not so simple as it seems, of course. Like Robb mentioned,
plate to the tunnel. And you'd probably want to shorten the leg so
it's not sticking 2 feet above the stern deck.
>coupler, then mount the outboard gears in a new gearbox. You need to
> Another way would be to use a regular stuffing box and vibration
know a machinist to make this work. And remember you'll need to run
cooling lines THROUGH the lower unit oil. Those things rely on the
water surrounding them to stay cool.
>day Rescue Minor, but I'll be damned excited to see the results if
> Best of luck to y'all. I still hope I'm the first to build a modern-
someone beats me to it. Especially in aluminum. Robb's been telling
me it's a great idea but I have this fear it'd be noisy when I'm used
to wood. Keep us posted!
> --Rob Rohde-Szudy
> Madison, WI
> (You can read articles on my damned-fool notions on
> Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]