Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

815Re: Seabright Skiff performance

Expand Messages
  • Mike Dolph
    Oct 5, 2005
      I just ordered a copy from Mystic Seaport, thanks for the info; I had
      no idea he had published that anywhere else. Even if offsets are not
      included just the description is worth the money and the other small
      boats are gold, too. I've ordered a too expensive digital camera and
      given notice at my apartment in San Antonio. I'll stay up to two
      months with my daughter in Austin and if all runs well with Brazilian
      authorities will go to Brasil; if not I guess I'll get an apartment
      in Austin. I might try the Rockport area as a place to build a boat
      but since I have two more grandbabies coming after the first of the
      year for now it's Brasil or diaper duty.

      Oh, the info about the complexities of keel and shaftlogs was for
      adharvey's benefit. Stopwaters eh? Hey, I knew that! Yeah, that's
      the ticket.

      Mike Dolph


      --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon"
      <l_gordon_nica@y...> wrote:
      > Mike,
      >
      > Yeah, I'm still lurking around and my 15' 4" skiff is still half
      done
      > while the 18' fiberglass "panga" gets us around on the lake. About
      > Kattewombke, you have to remember that I am in Nicaragua and getting
      > the big chunks of wood for the keel is no problem. Well there is a
      > slight problem as the preffered wood is SO heavy. I think the
      specific
      > gravity is something like 1.02 air dried (white oak is somewhere
      > around .67). But there are lots of choices, none cheap, but good
      wood
      > is available.
      >
      > The "dowels" you mention are called "stopwaters", and you are right
      in
      > that John Gardner does a great job of explaining keel construction.
      > Regarding M2 (M1 was the round bottom whose lines were furnished by
      > Phil Bolger), it is written up in his book "Wooden Boats To Build
      And
      > Use" as "37 Foot V-Bottomed Fishing Launch".
      >
      > Lewis
      >
      > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Dolph" <jdewolfe@a...>
      wrote:
      > > Hi Lewis,
      > >
      > > Nice to see you post; I was worried you had "shuffled off the
      mortal
      > > coil". How's your boat building going?
      > >
      > > On the construction problems the two types present I would say
      the
      > > Sea Bright skiffs are the less demanding.
      > >
      > > The Kettiwomoke will need a keel comprised of outer keel, spacer
      > > pieces, drilled or split and hollowed out shaft log, spacer piece
      and
      > > the portion of the keel that travels up to become the stern. All
      of
      > > this has to be assembled with long bolts or drifts with holes
      drilled
      > > across the joints so soft wood dowels can be inserted in them
      which
      > > will be just under the plank edges when the planking is on. This
      > > might be reduced to one really big keel piece and one piece
      running
      > > up with one doweled joint to stop leakage along the joint into
      the
      > > hull but good luck finding and buying that piece of wood in the
      USA.
      > > You will also have to drill a long, true hole to carry the
      shaft.
      > > Both designs need a Stem of course but the similar joints for the
      Sea
      > > Bright Skiff will probably not need the doweled joint.
      > >
      > > The best explanation I have ever seen of this was included in the
      > > plans for the M-1 by John Gardner which were published
      in "National
      > > Fisherman" my copy of which was lost in flooding. I have tried
      to
      > > get a copy in any form from the folks at the magazine or to get
      them
      > > to republish it but get no answer from them. I think I could get
      > > photo copys from UT's marine school library in Port Aransas but
      I've
      > > never made the trip to find out and don't know what copyright and
      > > authors rights might be breached by any one of us doing that for
      our
      > > purposes.
      > >
      > > Mike Dolph
      > >
      > >
      > > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon"
      > > <l_gordon_nica@y...> wrote:
      > > > Andrew,
      > > >
      > > > I'm not too educated on the subject myself, but I'll toss our a
      few
      > > > comments. One of the Atkins in writing about one of the designs
      on
      > > > this site compared the two hulls and the only thing he had
      negative
      > > to
      > > > say was that the Seabright type hyll was noiser at anchor. Since
      > > > you're looking at utilities, I don't think you would care about
      this
      > > > aspect.
      > > >
      > > > Either would do the job I'm sure. Sally Hyde offers a shallower
      > > draft
      > > > and better drive line geometry at the expense of more
      complicated
      > > > building. Just looking at the lines online, I don't think the
      > > topsides
      > > > of either would lend themselves to plywood construction. As a
      novice
      > > > builder having to work with "plank on frame", I would chose
      > > Katewombke
      > > > even though the shallow draft of Sally Hyde is attractive.
      > > >
      > > > Lewis
      > > >
      > > > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "adharvey2" <adharvey@m...>
      > > wrote:
      > > > > I know this topic has been touched on before, at least
      regarding
      > > the
      > > > > tunnel stern boats like Rescue Miner, but I'd still like to
      know
      > > more
      > > > > about what kind of behavior can be expected from the V bottom
      > > > > Seabright skiffs like Frank Toop, Happy Clam, Sally Hyde,
      etc., as
      > > > > compared to the conventional vertical deadwood designs, like
      > > Linny and
      > > > > Ketewomoke, for example. The many references in the articles
      > > about the
      > > > > Seabright skiffs in general being "able", "seaworthy",
      and "safe"
      > > are
      > > > > encouraging, but I am especially concernd about the boats'
      > > ability to
      > > > > be stable and straight tracking while trolling in calm water,
      and
      > > yet
      > > > > still avoid rolling, pitching, pounding, yawing, and all that
      > > other
      > > > > stuff that occurs when quartering or running off a rough sea.
      > > Also I'm
      > > > > wondering how they're likley to trim at their
      designed "cruising"
      > > > > speeds, as compared to other types. I guess I'm really trying
      to
      > > > > compare Sally Hyde and Ketewomoke. I'm hoping somebody out
      there
      > > has
      > > > > either some experience to share or at least an opinion more
      > > educated
      > > > > than mine.
      > > > > Andrew Harvey.
    • Show all 9 messages in this topic