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651Re: Atkin plans, how much detail and what come with them

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  • John Cupp
    Apr 27, 2005
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      Thank you for the answers about the plans.

      To answer your question about strip planking then cold molding over
      the top of that, I would first take small strips that had a bull
      nose profile on one side and a fitting hollow on the other. You
      have to put in sub frames to get the curve of the boat right when
      doing this. They are removed after strip planking is done. You use
      epoxy to glue down each strip so that there are no holes and you can
      even use white oak strips on the bottom and red cedar from the
      waterline up. I have been experimenting and when you add a new type
      of dye to the epoxy it looks like small stripes between the wood
      strips of any color you wish and the interior looks great where it
      has to be exposed when this is done. They even make gold metal
      flake dye if you want to get very fancy. On any type of laminations
      it looks dynamite also. Especially knees

      Once all the strips are in place you cold mold the hull by placing
      veneer at 90% angles across each other in two different layers sort
      of like a radial tire. Then final layer of veneer that lays front
      to back. these layers are made from western red cedar and if you
      only use cold molding it can be as light as a carbon fiber craft.
      The strip planking gives a little more material to epoxy the cold
      molding strips to, plus it makes the inner frames work like the
      designer wanted so the boat is much stiffer than just cold molding.
      So you can't get 1/2" strips 45' long but you can finger joint the
      strips before you run them through the router to put the bull nose
      and hollows on them. That way the finger joint is much stronger than
      a plain scarf joint with about four times the glued surface. When
      you epoxy then down you can use string to make them stay tied down
      or you can use a nail gun with the settings so the 18 gauge brad is
      still above the surface and is pulled out before you cold mold over
      that. It takes more time to build like this but it is much less
      expensive in the long run.

      When you cold mold the veneer down you use staples but they are also
      pulled and the hole epoxied over before the next layer is put down.
      They make very fair hulls and the weight is tons lighter than
      planking a hull. In fact that is the way companies make moulds for
      fiberglass hulls. They make a male hull then cover it with plastic
      and make a female hull from the first hull like I will be making.
      They then fair the inside of the female mould with bondo to make is
      glass smooth then they can build a plastic boat inside of that.

      Many catamarans are made by cold molding the hulls and next to
      carbon fiber which by the way must bake in a giant oven is the
      lightest way to build any hull. They have giant sloops over 150'
      lon built from the cold molding process The red Cedar with epoxy
      stops any type of marine borer from eating wood hulls in the
      southern latitudes. Marine borers just love planked boats unless
      you use anti fouling paint and fiberglass sheeting Even then when
      you rub the dead wood on a coral head or sandy beach you rub off
      your protection and marine borers can eat a doug fir boat in one
      season of tropical sailing. A very good book to read about Cold
      Molding is by John Guzzwell. The Book's name is Modern Wooden Yacht
      Construction , cold molding, Joinery and Fitting Out. He actually
      built a Jay Benford double ended boat that is a near cousin to the
      Atkin Eric. Jay references the Atkin's double enders often. The
      35' cold molded motor sailer that John Guzzwell builds uses more
      lead ballast in the keel because the whole boat is so much lighter.
      You have more weight to use for fuel and supplies not to mention
      better speed and no bilge water leaking from stuffed seams. Being
      completely sealed from moisture the red cedar stays in place and the
      hulls when they are on the hard being painted don't shrink and leak.

      William Atkin died just before cold molding became popular but I am
      sure with his shallow draft tunnel hulled boats he would have been
      delighted to see a material that could make the type of bends and
      curves needed to make those hulls work their best and very easy for
      a home builder to use.

      John

      --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, DirtSailor <dirtsailor2003@y...>
      wrote:
      > I must inquire as to what kind of strip built we are
      > refering too. My assumption from the original post
      > would be that the inner layer would be stripped then
      > sheathed over much like a stripper canoe. The second
      > post sounds more like plank on frame, with a form of
      > caulking, may it be cotton, Sika or otherwise, between
      > the planks which when full of water swell up and seal.
      > Are these assumptions correct?
      >
      > As for the plans, The plans for Trim that I purchased
      > include the original article, boy I wish the bill of
      > materials still cost what is listed! Any one have
      > plans fora time machine? All the other information
      > needed to build the boat is there, however, it does
      > require full lofting, so one would need to be skilled
      > in laying down lines. I must say that the
      > Draftsmanship is superb. I work in the residential
      > design business and since the advent of computers I
      > know I couldn't draft like that anymore. It is my
      > opinion that the price of the plans are well worth
      > what is there.
      >
      > DirtSailor
      >
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