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489Re: I'm looking for any advice about the Russell R. design

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  • Mike Dolph
    Jan 3, 2005
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      Thanks for you answer Lewis. I think the motor comes with good
      handles and I don't think I'll have to lift it out much. The fact is
      15 miles per with 15 HP would be nice enough I guess; probably twice
      what I could get from Rosdave and costing less all around I think.
      I'd have to go to a twenty-two HP Yanmar Brazilian made Yanmar to get
      electrics but I think they may be avilable on the 15 HP outboard.

      I might need to change the well to reflect the outboards available
      these days. I would have 3 more HP than specified so I'm hoping the
      weight will be over come. I would try to carvel plank I guess but I
      won't know till I try to wrap a plank around it and see. It might
      make it easier to "compensate" a little hikers compass if it can be
      done at all. I doubt I'll be able to steam bend frames so I think
      Clinker is out though I havn't seen the plans yet. The wood down
      there is amazingly heavy and strong. I bought a mess of less than
      3/4" flooring once to make a strong shipping box, the wood was called
      Sucupira and was so hard I had to drill holes to nail and it dulled
      the twist bit something terrible. With wood like that I see no need
      to import plywood execpt maybe for cabin sides and top which will be
      flat. Finding something lighter but good for a boat may be my
      biggest challenge. If I can swing it I'll fiberglass the bottom and
      sides.

      John Dolph


      --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon"
      <l_gordon_nica@y...> wrote:
      >
      > John,
      >
      > I have owned, modified and rebuilt an 18 foot shallow V plywood
      skiff
      > powered by a 40 HP 2 stroke in a well. The top speed was about 25-26
      > mph in a light 4 to 6 inch chop. The boat was surprisingly faster in
      > this light chop than still water. A good economical cruising speed
      was
      > about 21 mph and I could run a weekend on 7 gallons of gas.
      >
      > It was a fun boat, but I will never have another motor in a well
      > unless it is small enough to lift out by myself. I could not change
      > the tilt angle without pulling the motor. As built, the well IMO was
      > too far forward and the boat lost too much load bearing aft. Also,
      the
      > "shallow water" feature would not work because the prop would hit
      the
      > sides of the well. Moving the well aft helped these problems some,
      but
      > then the motor could not tilt up enough to lock in position and I
      > didn't want to enlarge the well opening in the transom. I ended up
      > giving the boat away when we moved to Nicaragua.
      >
      > With all that said, Russel R. looks like a good first time choice.
      Why
      > not carvel plank the sides instead of strip planking? And some of
      John
      > Gardners books take the mystic out of lapstrake planking. IMO, 17
      mph
      > sounds like a bit too much to expect on a 20.5 foot waterline from
      12
      > HP unless the construction is super light. Maybe that is why clinker
      > planking is specified. The 3/4 inch cross planked ceder bottom is
      also
      > a bit light for a nearly 22 foot boat.
      >
      > Good luck,
      > Lewis
      >
      >
      >
      > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Dolph" <jdolph@s...> wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > > I'm considering the Russell R. as a design I can build for myself
      in
      > > the Pantanal region of Brasil. I have tried to walk myself
      through
      > > it and even though I have never built a boat I think I can do
      this
      > > one. I would make it crossplanked on the bottom and probably
      strip
      > > plank the sides instead of lapstrake (which I'm pretty sure would
      > > defeat me).
      > >
      > > There are marine suppliers available in both the locations I am
      > > considering so the simple things I would need for this boat
      should be
      > > available. The object is to have a last "great adventure" before
      I
      > > have to quit and hopefully lose all the useless weight I'm
      carrying
      > > around so maybe I won't have to quit so soon.
      > >
      > > I would have preferred the Rosdave design but if Russel R. works
      as
      > > described it would be the better boat for the job and much more
      > > likely to be a DIY success for me. I would use a 15 HP outboard
      > > motor, probably a Yamaha. If the high thrust version with larger
      > > prop is available, would it be more desirable?
      > >
      > > The available woods will probably be much denser and heavier than
      the
      > > white cedar specified so I was thinking of reducing the plank
      > > scantlings a bit. I also want a self draining shelf or motorwell
      > > surrounding the open well the outboard drops into. This should
      > > reinforce the open well and give a place to flop fish for
      cleaning,
      > > etc. and supply a dry place for a battery if I have electric
      > > charge/start. The lids over the outboard will disappear.
      > >
      > > I plan to build a cabin like one used by the Campjon by Jim
      Micalak
      > > which will also add weight.
      > >
      > > Everything turns on the postulated speed of 17 miles an hour.
      I'm
      > > hoping a 15 HP outboard will still deliver that even if the boat
      is
      > > heavier.
      > >
      > > What do you guys think?
      > >
      > > John Dolph
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