489Re: I'm looking for any advice about the Russell R. design
- Jan 3, 2005Thanks for you answer Lewis. I think the motor comes with good
handles and I don't think I'll have to lift it out much. The fact is
15 miles per with 15 HP would be nice enough I guess; probably twice
what I could get from Rosdave and costing less all around I think.
I'd have to go to a twenty-two HP Yanmar Brazilian made Yanmar to get
electrics but I think they may be avilable on the 15 HP outboard.
I might need to change the well to reflect the outboards available
these days. I would have 3 more HP than specified so I'm hoping the
weight will be over come. I would try to carvel plank I guess but I
won't know till I try to wrap a plank around it and see. It might
make it easier to "compensate" a little hikers compass if it can be
done at all. I doubt I'll be able to steam bend frames so I think
Clinker is out though I havn't seen the plans yet. The wood down
there is amazingly heavy and strong. I bought a mess of less than
3/4" flooring once to make a strong shipping box, the wood was called
Sucupira and was so hard I had to drill holes to nail and it dulled
the twist bit something terrible. With wood like that I see no need
to import plywood execpt maybe for cabin sides and top which will be
flat. Finding something lighter but good for a boat may be my
biggest challenge. If I can swing it I'll fiberglass the bottom and
--- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon"
> I have owned, modified and rebuilt an 18 foot shallow V plywood
> powered by a 40 HP 2 stroke in a well. The top speed was about 25-26was
> mph in a light 4 to 6 inch chop. The boat was surprisingly faster in
> this light chop than still water. A good economical cruising speed
> about 21 mph and I could run a weekend on 7 gallons of gas.the
> It was a fun boat, but I will never have another motor in a well
> unless it is small enough to lift out by myself. I could not change
> the tilt angle without pulling the motor. As built, the well IMO was
> too far forward and the boat lost too much load bearing aft. Also,
> "shallow water" feature would not work because the prop would hitthe
> sides of the well. Moving the well aft helped these problems some,but
> then the motor could not tilt up enough to lock in position and IWhy
> didn't want to enlarge the well opening in the transom. I ended up
> giving the boat away when we moved to Nicaragua.
> With all that said, Russel R. looks like a good first time choice.
> not carvel plank the sides instead of strip planking? And some ofJohn
> Gardners books take the mystic out of lapstrake planking. IMO, 17mph
> sounds like a bit too much to expect on a 20.5 foot waterline from12
> HP unless the construction is super light. Maybe that is why clinkeralso
> planking is specified. The 3/4 inch cross planked ceder bottom is
> a bit light for a nearly 22 foot boat.in
> Good luck,
> --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Dolph" <jdolph@s...> wrote:
> > I'm considering the Russell R. as a design I can build for myself
> > the Pantanal region of Brasil. I have tried to walk myselfthrough
> > it and even though I have never built a boat I think I can dothis
> > one. I would make it crossplanked on the bottom and probablystrip
> > plank the sides instead of lapstrake (which I'm pretty sure wouldshould be
> > defeat me).
> > There are marine suppliers available in both the locations I am
> > considering so the simple things I would need for this boat
> > available. The object is to have a last "great adventure" beforeI
> > have to quit and hopefully lose all the useless weight I'mcarrying
> > around so maybe I won't have to quit so soon.as
> > I would have preferred the Rosdave design but if Russel R. works
> > described it would be the better boat for the job and much morethe
> > likely to be a DIY success for me. I would use a 15 HP outboard
> > motor, probably a Yamaha. If the high thrust version with larger
> > prop is available, would it be more desirable?
> > The available woods will probably be much denser and heavier than
> > white cedar specified so I was thinking of reducing the plankcleaning,
> > scantlings a bit. I also want a self draining shelf or motorwell
> > surrounding the open well the outboard drops into. This should
> > reinforce the open well and give a place to flop fish for
> > etc. and supply a dry place for a battery if I have electricMicalak
> > charge/start. The lids over the outboard will disappear.
> > I plan to build a cabin like one used by the Campjon by Jim
> > which will also add weight.I'm
> > Everything turns on the postulated speed of 17 miles an hour.
> > hoping a 15 HP outboard will still deliver that even if the boatis
> > heavier.
> > What do you guys think?
> > John Dolph
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