3015Re: [AtkinBoats] Re: Help with offsets
- Apr 28 5:38 AMOkay, so if you don't have the distance from baseline to LWL, then you are still working on the grid? There should be no guesswork, or scale rule work, but definitely a lot of figuring.The distance from the baseline to the LWL (and the other waterlines) should be written on the profile plan, same as the distances between stations. If not on the profile, then on one of the other views. The numbers might be turned 90 degrees.Atkin plans were made for beginners in an era where beginners were very familiar with wooden boats, and lots of people worked with their hands. It's more of a challenge for us.
- JohnSent from my iPad, so may be a bit brief.
On Apr 27, 2011, at 11:42 PM, Billy <billybronaugh@...> wrote:
Oh, specifically, there are no offsets from the bottom of the boat to the sheerline to tell me the height of each station to make the molds, there is nothing telling me the distance from the baseline to the load waterline, there is no offset for the height of station 12, nothing telling me how high the bottom of the stem is above the baseline, no information at all about the heights of the transom from any of the few given reference points and no information about station 0 which intersects the stem at some point. Like I said there is a lot of guesswork and scale rule work and figuring to be done to make these workable plans. I guess my only viable option is to use the scale rule and loft it as closely as I can and then fair the lines. I'm sure I'll figure it out, or, pick another plan. I think this is not a boat for a beginner. Thats what I hate about buying plans, though these said that all of the Atkin designs are suitable for beginners and that all of the needed info is there for said to build, I am sorry, but in this case I beg to differ. Mind you, I am not crying or bashing the Atkin company, I still much admire many, many of the designs to be found within.
--- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, John Almberg <jalmberg@...> wrote:
> Using the scale rule for sanity checks is good, but you shouldn't need
> it for lofting. All the measurements you need should be on the plans or
> offset table. You just need to take it step by step. What have you done
> so far? What are you stuck on, specifically?
> -- John
> Billy wrote:
> > Already have a scale rule and used it to check things on the plans,
> > which are drawn 1"=1' and the plans are really close, or, accurately
> > scaled. I just can't measure things like 1/16th with it. This is just
> > a "simple" flat bottom skiff but it is my first time trying to loft a
> > design. All my others were S&G boats or kits. I'm sure I'm just
> > missing something and that I'll figure it out.(?)
> > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AtkinBoats%40yahoogroups.com>, davy riggs <titanicslim@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi, Billy
> > > This may seem like a bunch of extra work but, trust me, it is not.
> > You would do well to get an architect's scale and make a 1"=1' (or
> > better, 3"=1') drawing before you do it full scale on the floor. I
> > like to draw on smoothly finished aircraft plywood, then take it with
> > me to the lofting floor for instant reference- much handier than a
> > paper drawing.
> > > You will find problems (and, yes, Mr. Atkin's mistakes) and fix them
> > sitting comfortably at your desk where you can see the whole scheme
> > without gymnastics. So by the time you begin the full-size lofting,
> > you will have a good idea of what you are doing and save beaucoups
> > headaches and knee-aches.
> > > You may even, as I have done, find cause to alter course before you
> > embark on a project you should not.
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > Man proposes- God disposes. -U.S. Grant
> > >
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