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251Re: [AtkinBoats] Re: Eric (the elder?)

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  • jkohnen@boat-links.com
    Jul 4, 2004
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      I don't think you'd have to move Handy Andy's mast to fit a spritsail. Where
      would you move it to anyway? It's already right up in the eyes of the boat.
      What you might have to do is reduce the rake of the mast, maybe even raking
      it forward a tad. You want the center of effort of the spritsail to be close
      to where the CE of the jib-headed sail was. Figuring that out isn't
      difficult, the CE of the jib-headed sail is shown on the Handy Andy plans,
      and Jim Michalak tells how to figure the CE of the spritsail (and much else
      of use to balancing the rig of a small, shallow boat) in a recent
      newsletter:

      http://homepages.apci.net/~michalak/15jun04.htm

      The old canoe nuts foam at the mouth when they hear of somebody
      fiberglassing an old wood and canvas canoe (and I don't blame them!), but it
      might not be a bad idea for a new Handy Andy. You wouldn't be desecrating
      the work of a classic craftsman, after all. The thin, soft cedar planks
      under the 'glass probably wouldn't move enough to cause any harm, which is
      the usual problem with fiberglassing planked boats. BTW, when done properly,
      a canvas-covered boat or canoe doesn't show any canvas texture, the weave is
      supposed to be all full of filler. The finish should be smooth as a baby's
      bottom. <g>

      The planking of a canvas-covered boat doesn't need to fit tightly, and you
      don't need to taper and shape the planks, making the construction a bit
      easier for a tyro. Nowadays, somebody could strip-plank Handy Andy, glass
      her inside and out, and get away with no (or few) frames like a stripper
      canoe. Or cold-mold her. But don't let Mrs. Atkin know I'm talking about
      things like that. She hates it when people depart from the plans! <g> If I
      was going to build Handy Andy I'd do it lapstrake, with plywood planks glued
      at the laps, using the Vintage plans for a guide. For landing on rocky
      beaches I'd put hardwood strips along the edges of the lower laps. The
      planks can also be individually fiberglassed before installation.

      On Wed, 30 Jun 2004 15:55:22 -0000, Scott wrote:
      > Those are very nice little boats. I especially love the sweeping
      > shear on Handy Andy, it'd look great bobbing behind Ronin (I wonder
      > if she'd need to have the mast moved to fit a spritsail... I'd like
      > to store shorter spars). One of my main concerns in any tender would
      > be that it's beachable. And I don't mean velvety sand, I mean
      > wherever I may end up (in Puget Sound for now, which is varied and
      > nasty enough). I fear canvas would take a licking... I have a bit of
      > trepidation changing building plans, since I'm rather new at this.
      > One thought I had, simply with a flat-bottom boat, which I've seen
      > done quite regularly, is to encase the floor and chines in
      > fiberglass. Now that I think about it, that would be feasible with a
      > canvas boat, but would lose that canvas texture up close. And it's
      > blasphemous, I know, but what am I to do?

      --
      John <jkohnen@...>
      http://www.boat-links.com/
      I care not for a man's religion whose dog or cat are not the better for it.
      <Abraham Lincoln>
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