2484Re: [AtkinBoats] Re: River Rat
- Oct 16, 2009Yes, you can cut down on the number of fasteners if you use epoxy. You
just need enough to hold the pieces in place and provide even clamping
pressure. After the goo cures you can remove the fasteners and fill their
holes. Some modern boatbuilders consider any fastener a chink in the
boat's defenses, a place for moisture to sneak in. If the plans call for
through bolts, drifts, or rivets you should use them, though.
Don't beef up the construction for trailering! The boat will be strong
enough. I was reminded of the tendency of builders to want to build boats
"hell for stout," despite what the designer specifies, by a quote I just
read by George Calkins, concerning the Bartenders built by others for the
Coast Guard, and by the CG itself, which didn't perform as well as they
should have, "The less I had to do with the builders, the heavier the
boats got." Atkin powerboats also depend on light weight for good
performance, so keep that in mind every step of the way. Especially be
careful fitting out the cabin -- keep everything simple and light.
The problem with sheathing the whole hull with fiberglass is weight. I
wouldn't sheath it above the waterline, or maybe the chines, and I'd use
light cloth. Plenty of plywood boats have been built without any
fiberglass at all and lasted well.
Three inches of added height to the cabin isn't much, and wouldn't do much
harm, especially if most of it is in additional crown to the top, but do
you really need it?
The framing and plywood for the top should do fine for holding a light
dinghy and lounging. I'd use laminated beams. Notice that John & Wm.
specified spruce for the beams; they were concerned with weight,
especially up high. You should be too.
Don't overpower the boat! Keep it light and it'll perform just fine with
On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 09:49:22 -0700, Sam wrote:
> I have the plans for this boat and have been studying them for a while.
> The boat was designed in 1952 and Atkin claimed it would top out at 17.5
> mph with a 25 hp outboard. It is plywood on frame with one seam batten
> on either side of the keel and two between the chine and sheer. He calls
> for frames 3/4 by 2 1/4 white oak on 18 1/2 in. centers. I plan to use
> longleaf pine instead of white oak. Bottom planking is one layer of 3/8
> and top sides are one layer of 1/4. Cabin top is one layer of 1/4. He
> specifies glue and screw construction.
> 1. I would like to use epoxy instead of glue. Can I cut down on the
> fasteners for the planking?
> 2. I plan to keep the boat on a trailer, though the plans mention
> nothing of this. Will this cause problems with such lightweight
> construction? I thought I might add rigidity by adding some plywood
> frames longitudinally between the bottom frames, secured with epoxy
> 3. I was going to glass the chines with one layer of biaxal cloth and
> sheath the entire hull in it as well. Any problems here?
> 4. I would like to make some adjustments to add three inches of headroom
> inside, such as increasing the camber of the rooftop and increasing the
> height of the cabin sides. Any trouble with this?
> 5. I want to be able to store a small tender on the roof top and use it
> as lounge space. The cabin top beams call for 7/8 by 2 in. spruce on 10
> inch centers.
Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after
tomorrow. <Mark Twain>
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