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1676Re: [AtkinBoats] Re: Willy Winship - any body built one? Can help answering some questions?

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  • holzboat@aol.com
    Oct 19, 2007
      I usually install the frames after the sides are planked up and the chine timbers?have been faired for the bottom. This leaves you the ability to better see what you are doing and also allows you to easily clamp both the top and bottom of each frame as you fasten them. After all frames are installed then you plank the bottom. One or two cross spalls or spreader sticks are temporarily clamped to the frames to help keep the hull from changing width when you lift it off the molds. These are removed later when you install the seat risers and thwarts.

      -----Original Message-----
      From: piper_tim <timrein@...>
      To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 6:47 am
      Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Willy Winship - any body built one? Can help answering some questions?

      Hi Don,

      OK, I'm with you so far. I understand lofting and this boat was choosen due to the simple
      lofting required. And I understand the strongback and mold height.

      What I'm confused about is when the actual frames get attached to the hull. Are they
      attachehd to the molds and glued in when the sides and bottom is glued in OR are they
      added when the boat is 'rightsided' and the molds are removed?

      Most books covering the subject are talking about steam bent oak frames that attach to
      the mold before the planking is attached, or they're talking about glued lapstrake in which
      the frames are added after the boat is taken off the mold.

      I think this boat may falll into the second catagory. I just want to make sure that the
      whole thing doesn't 'spring back' when I remove the strongback and molds.


      --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Don Douglas" <douglashome@...> wrote:
      > Great question.
      > Here is what I would do. When you loft the boat, draw a line parallel to the base line
      about a foot above the top of the sheer. Lofting is an exercise in spatial imagining so
      think of this line as your future shop floor. Then when you draw in the frame sections
      extend them up to the shop floor line and do this on the body plan when you make your
      frame patterns. What this does in give you a level start for all the frames to build the boat
      upside down and everything will automatically be at the correct height. Your frames
      become your permanent molds so don't forget to bevel the edges correctly and run a
      batten after mold/frame setup to verify everything is fair. Erect these over a strongback
      frame with a cross spall at some point determined in the lofting to be the top of the
      strongback frame.
      > Greg Rossel's book shows some illustrations of this as do several other books that talk
      about building a boat upside down. Glen L Witt has a book, "Boatbuilding With Plywood"
      that covers this in detail for the frame construction but not the lofting part. Chapelle also
      discusses this in "Boatbuilding". Trying doing the lofting to a small scale and you will see
      what I mean and have an idea of what to plan for when you do the actual lofting.
      > Don Douglas
      > Colorado Springs
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: piper_tim
      > To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
      > Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 8:36 PM
      > Subject: [AtkinBoats] Re: Willy Winship - any body built one? Can help answering some
      > Hi Don,
      > Flat bottomed and slab sides is why I chose this boat. I was planning to make it all
      > ply, but I think I like the way it looks cross planked and lapstraked. Still, for my second
      > boat, I think all ply may be the way to go.
      > I've read Rossel's book "Building small boats" and (forgot the author) "building glued
      > lapstrake boats" so I have a good idea of what needs to happen...but even so...
      > So, the first of many upcoming questions is: I'm assuming that I need to build a
      > strongback with the forms given on the plans, plank the sides and bottom (omitting a
      > of steps there), but when do you insert the sawn frames? Do you remove the boat from
      > the form and add the frames one at a time? Do you mount the frames to the forms and
      > glue them in while planking?
      > Neither book really dealt with ply sided boats and this type of forms.
      > Thanks in advance,
      > Tim
      > --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Don Douglas" <douglashome@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Tim,
      > > Willy Winship looks like a great next step in your boatbuilding
      > > path. The lines are very similar to several flat bottom skiffs that
      > > I have read about. Greg Rossel in his new book "The Boatbuilder's
      > > Apprentice" shows a similar skiff in his section on lofting. Plus
      > > the Wooden Boat series "Getting Started in Boats" had it's first
      > > article on a flat bottom rowboat that would share some of the same
      > > building processes. I don't know what books you have read but those
      > > are always a point of beginning. The next is to loft the boat out
      > > full size and start planning on building. Any specific questions you
      > > have, just post to the site and someone will have some good advice.
      > > Since you did not post anything specific that you are questioning
      > > we are going to have to wait in suspense for the next question. Just
      > > because someone has not built this specific boat does not mean there
      > > is not knowledge lurking in the membership waiting to be asked.
      > > I also had my first experience with a Cajun Pirogue, so I know
      > > where you are at.
      > >
      > > Have fun building!
      > > Don Douglas
      > > Colorado Springs
      > >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

      Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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