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Recipes and thanks from last night's culinary guild

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  • Raphaella DiContini
    Thank you to everyone who came last night! It was great fun and I think we got some great work done. I ve included the recipes from last night, including the
    Message 1 of 1 , May 3, 2012
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      Thank you to everyone who came last night! It was great fun and I think we got some great work done. I've included the recipes from last night, including the chicken ambrosino that we tested, but didn't cook that night.
       
      Lady Zoya, we were thinking of you last night, missing you and wishing you the best!
       
      In joyous service,
      Raffaella
       
       
      Recipe options:
      XXXIX. Manzare de pomo bono e perfetto.
      Toy le pome, e mondale e taili in quarto e fale lesare; quando eno apresso cocte, yeta via l’ aqua, poy le mete in lo grasso de la carne che tu cossi, e fale a quello modo che tu fay le zuche; e mitige bone specie dolze e ove sbatute como pare a tí.
      XXXIX A perfect and good dish of apples
      Take apples, peel them, cut them into quarters and put them to boil; when they are nearly cooked pour out the water.  Then add into them the fat of whichever meat that you choose (or have on hand) and make them in the same way that you make gourds.  Add good sweet spices and beaten eggs as you wish.
      Ingredients:
      5lb of apples,
      2 tbsp. Lardo/ clarified pork back fat
      2 tsp. “sweet spices” mix from same manuscript
      Two scrambled eggs (optional).  
      Peel,  quarter & core apples, then boil. Once boiled, pour out the water and add fat (in this case 2 tbsp. pork back fat/ lardo), and spices. I also removed three apples worth and added two scrambled eggs. In the future I might try this again with mashing the apples and effectively making apple pancakes. I might also try adding homemade almond milk as is called for the in gourd recipe from the same manuscript.
      For reference, here is a gourd dish from the same manuscript as this recipe tells you to “make them in the same way that you make gourds”.
      CXXI.     Zuche.
      A ffare bone zuche, toy le monete seche e fale lessare ben in olio non tropo; toy mandole monde e masenale e metelli entro le zuche e fay le bianche, o volo zalle e meti uva passa dentro.
      CXXI.  Gourds.
      To make good gourds, take the dried meat and let it boil well in oil not too much; take peeled almonds and grind (make almond milk) and put into the gourds and make it white, or if you want yellow and put in currants
       
      CII. Torta de schalogne o de cepolle, etc.
      Se tu voy fare torta de queste do cosse, toy quale tu voy e fay ben allessare. Pone prima l’ aqua fuora ben con stamegna e po’ le bati finalmente e toy lardo fino e batillo bene; toy l’ ova e caxo frescho e zafarano e bati insiema e fay la torta.
      CII.  Tart of scallions or of onions, etc.
      If you want to make a tart of these things, take that which you want and let it well boil.  Take first the water out and then squeeze out the water and finally chop/mash them and take fine lard and beat well; take eggs and fresh cheese and saffron and beat all together and make the tart.
      Ingredients:
      3 oz scallions
      1 cup whole milk ricotta
      ½ cup parmesan reggiano                                                            
      2tbps. Lardo/ clairified pork back fat
      1 oz. fresh Italian parsley, 1/4 oz. fresh mint, 1/4 oz. fresh marjoram, 5 threads good saffron
      1 pie crust
       
      Preheat oven to 350. Peel & boil scallions, then chop by hand or in food processor. Add ricotta, herbs, lardo and parmesan last. Line pie tin with crust, then pour in filling and bake for 25-40 minutes (until filling is set), checking after 25. Once tart is done, let set for 10-15 minutes before cutting.  Good cold, but better hot. This was fantastic! I think I will dial back the mint a bit though, as the herbal flavor was lovely, but completely overwhelmed any shallot flavor. This was cheesey herbal goodness.

       
      Possible re-testing options for Sergeantry trials:
      XVII.   Caponi ouer polastri impliti.
      Se tu voy fare doy caponi per XII persone, toy doy casi freschi e XII ovi, e toy doy onze de specie dolze fine, toy meza libra de lardo fresco e toy li caponi ben lavati e mondi e fali alessare. Quando sono ben cocti, spoiali tutti e trane fura le ossa e servali, e bati le polpe con alquante foglie de presemolo, e menta, e persa, e de le ditte specie, e de caxo che tu a’ ben pesto, e de le oui che tu a’ tanto che bastano e de queste cosse fa uno bono batuto fino, e morbido, e ben zallo, e ben possiente de specie; e togli trite queste osse e revestelli zascheuno per si segondo che li choga in parte de questo batuto, e fai zaschuno per si in raisella de porche e frize in lardo. E quando sono sofriti, polveriza de le specie ditte, e toy torli overo bianchi de oui e specie, e zafarano destemperato, e sugo de uva ranze o de agresta o del brodo de li caponi, e di queste cosse fane uno bono brodeto, e mitilo a bolire. Quando vole metige queste osse repiene
      in questo brodeto a bolire; quando è fatto dallo per scutelle e li caponi per tayeri. Questa vivanda vole essere ben zalla e agra de agresta; se tu voy fare per piú persone o per meno, toy le cosse a questa mesura  medesma.
      XVII Capons or hens stuffed
      If you want to make two capons for 12 persons.  Take two fresh cheeses and 12 eggs and take two ounces of sweet spices, half a pound of fresh lard and take the capons well washed and skinned and let them boil.  When they are well cooked, strip all (of the flesh off) and pull out the bones and reserve.  And beat the meat with some leaves of parsley, and mint and marjoram, and of the said spices, and the cheese that has been well mixed to a paste, and enough of the eggs (to bind the paste).  Of these things make a good batter, fine and soft and well yellow, and good presence of spices.  Take chopped (broken up) these bones and redress each one for it is according that it nails in part of this batter (reform the meat paste around the bones).  And put each in rashers of pork and fry in lard.  And when they are fried, powder with the said spices.  Take strained egg yolks and whites and spices and saffron, temper with juice of grapes crushed or with
      verjuice or with the capon broth, and of this stuff make a good sauce, and put it to boil.  Then you want to put these bones stuffed in this boiling broth, when it is done serve it in a bowl and the capons in platters.  This dish wants to be well yellow (giallo) and sour of verjuice.  If you want to make it for more persons or for less take the things of this measure by same proportion.
      Because I didn't know how many people I'd be having I chose to go with chicken legs for consistency and ease of serving as opposed to two whole chickens. This seemed to work fantastically. I also used two variations of meat to wrap it in as historically bacon often wasn't nearly as fatty as what we're used to today. We used bacon and Canadian bacon/ ham to test for flavor and workability differences.
      Ingredients (what we actually used):
      9 chicken legs
      2 "fresh cheeses"=15 oz. Ricotta, 1 oz. queso fresca + 2 tbsp.  Parmesan Reggiano
      1 oz. fresh Italian parsley, 1/4 oz. fresh mint, 1/4 oz. fresh marjoram,
      1tsp sweet spices
      1/2 pound bacon / 1/2 pound Canadian bacon or ham
      2 eggs                  
      14 oz. lard to fry in

      Instructions as done: 
      Skin and boil chicken (we reserved the skins to make broth). Once boiled shred chicken and mix with fresh cheeses, chopped herbs, sweet spices .Take the chicken, cheese and spice batter and wrap in bacon, pin closed with toothpicks if needed. Fry in lard until done (outside is sufficiently browned and the inside reaches at least 160 by meat thermometer), this took approximately 10 minutes per side on my stove at about medium temperature. Allow to drain a bit, then serve.
       
      I think this may be my "WOW" make on site dish. It's part illusion food as you  put the "meat" (i.e. cheese, cooked chicken, herbs, eggs, spices) back on the bone wrapped in pork then fried in lardo/ lard/ clairified bacon fat. I may partially pre-prep this and just cook a few in front of the judges.  
       
      IV.          Ambrosino bono e perfecto et cetera.
      Se tu voi fare ambrosino per XII persone, toy VI caponi magretti e ij libre de mandole, e una libra de uva passa, e 1 datali, e una libra de brognole, e 1 ½ de genzevro fino, e una ½ entra noce moschate e garof. E zafarano intrego, e meza libra de specie dolçe fine, e toy li caponi e smenbrali e fane septe peze de l’ uno, e mitili a sofrizer in lardo desfato e colado in una cita. E quando sono ben sofriti, la prima cossa che tu gli mitti sia lo zenzevro roto e le noce moschate taiate ben trite, e canella rota in bone peçe, e garofalli intrigi, e mandole intriege monde, e datali intrigi ben lavati, e meti dentro specie dolçe [in] gran quantità, e fay coxere un pocho; e quando è coto trai indrieto; quando è coto meti le prime mandole con le gusse non monde, e macenali e destempera con aceto pocho, e quando è cota la vivanda, cola li mandole e mettili sugo con specie e zafarano asay. Questa vivanda vuole essere agra e dolza e vermiglia e stretta,
      traila indietro e dala per scudelle e polveriza specie di sopra le scudelle.
      IV. (4) Ambrosino (ambrosia) good and perfect and such. {Spicy chicken with dried fruit}
      If you want to make ambrosino for 12 persons take 6 lean capons and 2 pounds of almonds and a pound of currants, and 1 (pound of) dates and a pound of prunes/damson plums (brognole) and 1 ½ of ginger fine and one ½ whole nutmeg and cloves and whole saffron, and half pound of sweet spices, and take the capon and cut into portions and make seven pieces of each, and put it to fry in lard rendered and strained in a pan.  And when it is well fried, the first thing that you must put in is the zenzevro rubbed and the nutmeg chopped well small, and cinnamon broken in good pieces and cloves whole, and almonds whole peeled, and dates whole well washed, and put in sweet spices in large amounts and let cook a little; and when it is cooked take it back (remove off the flame), when it is cooked first put in the almonds with the shell not peeled (unskinned) and grind and distemper (mix) with little vinegar and when it is cooked the dish, strain the almonds and put
      sauce with spices and enough saffron.  This dish wants to be sharp and sweet and scarlet and sparing take it back (off the fire?) and put it in a bowl and powdered spices over the bowl.
      *  Brognole is translated in Florio as any prune or damson plum, given the context it is most likely to indicate prunes.
       
      My interpretation:
      2 lb. chicken (boneless skinless breasts or thighs chopped into bite size bits make for easier serving). enought lard to sautee (my burner is a bit tilted so I wound up using about 3 tbsp- you can easily substitute olive oil, but it will change the flavor), 4 oz skinless almonds divided in 1/2 (with one half kept whole and the other ground for almond milk), 2 oz red wine vinegar, 2 oz currants, 2 oz dates (I cut into rounds), 2 oz prunes (I cut into 1/4), 1/4 oz fresh ginger, 1/12 whole nutmeg freshly grated, 1/6 oz cloves, 1/6 oz saffron, 1 stick true cinnamon broken into large peices.
      Brown chicken pieces in lard or oil, until well but not over browned (this took about 15-20 minutes each side), grind almonds for almond milk, soak ground almonds in 3times the volume of red wine vinegar, drain fat then return chicken to pan, strain solids from almond milk and add to pan with chicken, spices and fruit to simmer down for sauce- until chicken is done by meat thermeter &/or juices run clear (takes approx. 10-20 minutes). Plate chicken then top with sauce, skinless almonds and a sprinkle of sweet spice mix*
      *the spice mix used is from this same source: LXXIV Sweet spices, enough for many good and fine things, which I have documented here and will go back and provide a link to later.
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