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Recipe options (surprise, Italian!) for Culinary guild May 2012

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  • Raphaella DiContini
    Since I haven t had any requests we will be playing with testing recipes for my Sergeantry / Courtier trials coming up in September. :)  Some of these I have
    Message 1 of 1 , May 1, 2012
      Since I haven't had any requests we will be playing with testing recipes for my Sergeantry / Courtier trials coming up in September. :)  Some of these I have done before, and want to see how they would work together, and which might have sufficient "wow" factor for it to be the one recipe I do on site instead of in advance. I believe I have everything for these recipes, except shallots or onion.
      As a reminder we will be gathering at 6:00, and starting to cook at 6:30 sharp, but it's totally okay if you come a little late. We will be wrapping up by 9:00 as 4:30AM comes painfully early.
      Our address is:
      1928 Martin Luther King Jr. Way, Tacoma, WA 98405
      In joyous service,
      Raffaella
      Recipe options:
      CVI. Torta de late.
      Toy lo formazo e gratillo e toy ove e specie e herbe bone e disbati cum le ove e distempera con lo late e fay la crosta como è ditto de sopra.
      CVI. Tart of milk
      Take the cheese and grate and take eggs and spices and good herbs and beat with the eggs and temper with milk and make a crust like it has been said and above.
       
      XXXVIII.                Lasagne.
      Se tu voy fare lansagne de quaressima, toy le lasagne e mitile a coxere, e toli noxe monde e ben pesta e maxenate, e miti entro le lasagne, e guardale dal fumo; e quando vano a tavola, menestra e polverizage de le specie, del zucharo.
      XXXVIII Lasagne
      If you want to make lasagne in lent, take the lasagne (wide pasta noodles) and put them to cook (in water and salt).  Take peeled walnuts and beat and grind them well.  Put them between the lasagna (in layers), and guard from smoke (while reheating).  And when they go to the table dress them with a dusting of spices and with sugar.
       
       XXXIX. Manzare de pomo bono e perfetto.
      Toy le pome, e mondale e taili in quarto e fale lesare; quando eno apresso cocte, yeta via l’ aqua, poy le mete in lo grasso de la carne che tu cossi, e fale a quello modo che tu fay le zuche; e mitige bone specie dolze e ove sbatute como pare a tí.
      XXXIX A perfect and good dish of apples
      Take apples, peel them, cut them into quarters and put them to boil; when they are nearly cooked pour out the water.  Then add into them the fat of whichever meat that you choose (or have on hand) and make them in the same way that you make gourds.  Add good sweet spices and beaten eggs as you wish.
       
      XL. Migliaciti bianchi e vantagiati, etc.
      Se tu voy fare migliaciti bianchi per lo megliore modo che fare se poy per XII persone, toy tanto levato che sia un pan e mezo, toy aqua ben calda pocha e menalo molto questo levato tanto che faza file; e toy quatro chaxi freschi che sia ben grassi; e toy X ova, e toy do libre d’ onto frescho ben destruto con poco fogo ben colato. E quando el levato è ben menato, metige suso farina in quantitade de una scudella pizola, e mitige
      anche acqua pocha, e mitige tri casi triti, e mitige le ove che tu ay, e fay che questo batuto sia longo e molle, e metilo in el testo caldo e non tropo e ben onto, e tritali suso li doi casi che tu ay ben triti, e l’ altra mitade del lardo che tu ay molto caldo, e falo cosere. E se voy fare per piú persone o per men, toy le çosse per quello modo.
      XL A white and rich “migliaciti” (cake)
      If you want to make white cake in the best way that you can for 12 persons.  Take enough leaven (fermenting bread dough) that is (for) about a bread and a half, take water that is a little hot and mix it with the leaven so that it makes strings (breaks up).  Take four fresh, good fat cheeses, ten eggs, two pounds of fresh lard that has been well rendered with little smoke and well strained.  And when the leaven is well working put it above flour in quantities of about a dish (scudella pizola a dish of a specific and constant size), and put in a a little water, and put in the chopped cheese (one of the three) and add the eggs that you have.  Make this batter/dough soft and tender, and put it into a hot but not too hot “testo” (pie dish designed to cook pies on the fire) which has been well greased.  And scatter above the two cheeses that you have chopped well, and above it add the hot strained lard that you have, and put it to cook.  And if you want to make for more persons or for less take the ingredients in the same way.
       
      XXVI. Fritelle da Imperadore magnifici.
      Se tu voy fare fritelle da Imperadore, toi la chiara de l’ ova e fete de formazo frescho, e battile cum la chiara de l’ ova, e mitige un pocho de farina e pignoli mondi. Toy la padella cum assay onto, falo bolire e fay le fritelle. Quando sono cocte, polverizali ben zucharo e tienli caldi, etc.
      XXVI. Magnificent fritters of the Emperor
      If you want to make fritters of the emperor, take the white of the egg and slices of fresh cheese, and beat with the white of the egg, and put a little flour and peeled pine nuts.  Take the frying pan with enough grease, make it boil and make the fritter.  When they are cooked, powder well with sugar and hold (serve) them hot, etc..
      XXVI Magnificent Imperial Fritters
      If you want to make Imperial fritters, take the whites of eggs and slices of fresh cheese.  Beat them (the cheese) with the white of the egg, and add a little bit of wheat flour and whole peeled pine nuts.  Take a frying pan with plenty of grease (oil) and put it to boil (heat) then make the fritters (fry in the fat).  When they are cooked sprinkle them with plenty of sugar and keep them hot, etc.
       
      CII. Torta de schalogne o de cepolle, etc.
      Se tu voy fare torta de queste do cosse, toy quale tu voy e fay ben allessare. Pone prima l’ aqua fuora ben con stamegna e po’ le bati finalmente e toy lardo fino e batillo bene; toy l’ ova e caxo frescho e zafarano e bati insiema e fay la torta.
      CII.  Tart of scallions or of onions, etc.
      If you want to make a tart of these things, take that which you want and let it well boil.  Take first the water out and then squeeze out the water and finally chop/mash them and take fine lard and beat well; take eggs and fresh cheese and saffron and beat all together and make the tart.
      Possible re-testing options for Sergeantry trials:
      C.Torta in balconata per dodeze persone.
      Toy farina piú biancha che tu poy avere in quantità de tre libre o toy do onze de zucharo e toy       una libra de mandole e xxxvj noce bone e meza libra de uva passa e xxv datali e mezo quarto de garofali e toy bona quantità de late de mandole, toy la farina che tu ay destruta con aqua sì che sia ben spesso e toy la padella e onzella ben de olio e de questa farina fassi crosta ad una
      polverizata de zucaro e delle dite specie, e toy le noce possa li datali minuzati e l’ uva passa ben lavata e garofali russi e tute queste croste  su chaschauna la suva parte e poni crosta sopra tute queste cose e sì che sia torta.
      C.  Tart windowed for 12 persons.
      Take the flour most what that you have in amount of three pounds and take two ounces of sugar and take a pound of almonds and 36 walnuts good and half a pound of currants and 25 dates and half a quarter of cloves and take a good quantity of almond milk; take the flour that you have mixed with water such that it is well thick and take the pan and grease well with oil and of this flour make a crust in it powder with sugar and the said spices, and take the nuts crushed and dates tiny (well chopped) and the currents well washed and cloves ground and all these in the crust over each one saves part of the crust and puts above all these things an it is a tart.
      * This recipe actually tells you how to make a crust.  In this case a simple mix of flour and water, the pan is greased with oil the filling put within.
      XVII.   Caponi ouer polastri impliti.
      Se tu voy fare doy caponi per XII persone, toy doy casi freschi e XII ovi, e toy doy onze de specie dolze fine, toy meza libra de lardo fresco e toy li caponi ben lavati e mondi e fali alessare. Quando sono ben cocti, spoiali tutti e trane fura le ossa e servali, e bati le polpe con alquante foglie de presemolo, e menta, e persa, e de le ditte specie, e de caxo che tu a’ ben pesto, e de le oui che tu a’ tanto che bastano e de queste cosse fa uno bono batuto fino, e morbido, e ben zallo, e ben possiente de specie; e togli trite queste osse e revestelli zascheuno per si segondo che li choga in parte de questo batuto, e fai zaschuno per si in raisella de porche e frize in lardo. E quando sono sofriti, polveriza de le specie ditte, e toy torli overo bianchi de oui e specie, e zafarano destemperato, e sugo de uva ranze o de agresta o del brodo de li caponi, e di queste cosse fane uno bono brodeto, e mitilo a bolire. Quando vole metige queste osse repiene in questo brodeto a bolire; quando è fatto dallo per scutelle e li caponi per tayeri. Questa vivanda vole essere ben zalla e agra de agresta; se tu voy fare per piú persone o per meno, toy le cosse a questa mesura  medesma.
      XVII Capons or hens stuffed
      If you want to make two capons for 12 persons.  Take two fresh cheeses and 12 eggs and take two ounces of sweet spices, half a pound of fresh lard and take the capons well washed and skinned and let them boil.  When they are well cooked, strip all (of the flesh off) and pull out the bones and reserve.  And beat the meat with some leaves of parsley, and mint and marjoram, and of the said spices, and the cheese that has been well mixed to a paste, and enough of the eggs (to bind the paste).  Of these things make a good batter, fine and soft and well yellow, and good presence of spices.  Take chopped (broken up) these bones and redress each one for it is according that it nails in part of this batter (reform the meat paste around the bones).  And put each in rashers of pork and fry in lard.  And when they are fried, powder with the said spices.  Take strained egg yolks and whites and spices and saffron, temper with juice of grapes crushed or with verjuice or with the capon broth, and of this stuff make a good sauce, and put it to boil.  Then you want to put these bones stuffed in this boiling broth, when it is done serve it in a bowl and the capons in platters.  This dish wants to be well yellow (giallo) and sour of verjuice.  If you want to make it for more persons or for less take the things of this measure by same proportion.
      I had a father (Edmund) & son (Ambrose), and P3H (Isebel) show up and jump in with enthusiasm. The dish was proclaimed delicious and would be a great (although fairly labor intensive) addition to a feast. I'll document what we did, and then what I think we should have done/ what I'll try next.
      Because I didn't know how many people I'd be having I chose to go with chicken legs for consistancy and ease of serving as opposed to two whole chickens. This seemed to work fantastically. I also used two variations of meat to wrap it in as historically bacon often wasn't nearly as fatty as what we're used to today. We used both bacon and canadian bacon/ ham to test for flavor and workability differences.
      Ingredients (what we actually used):
      12 chicken legs = 3.44 lb bone in
      2 "fresh cheeses"=1/2 lb Quark, 1 lb Ricotta
      6 eggs
      1 oz fresh italian parsley
      1/4 oz fresh mint
      1/4 oz dried margoram
      1/2 oz sweet spices
      1/2 pound bacon / 1/2 pound canadian bacon or ham                  
      14 oz lard to fry in

      Instructions as done: 
      Skin and boil chicken (we reserved the skins to make broth)
      once boiled shred chicken and mix with fresh cheeses, chopped herbs, sweet spices  
      Take the chicken, cheese and spice batter and wrap in bacon, pin closed with toothpicks if needed. Fry in lard until done (outside is sufficiently browned and the inside reaches at least 160 by meat thermometer), this took approximately 10 minutes per side on my stove at about medium temperature. Allow to drain a bit, then serve hot with sauces on side

      Sauce ingredients (as used for  both variations): 
      2 cups liquid (homemade broth or verjuice) of which 1/3 cup each was held back for tempering
      3 eggs separated into yolks and whites (the recipe calls for both, but that they be separated)
      1/4 tsp fine spice mix for each
      1/4 tsp sweet spice mix for each
      1/16 oz saffron each

      Instructions as done: 
      Add separated eggs to reserved liquid. Broth blended better than verjuice. Add egg mix slowly to hot liquid while whisking constantly. Increase heat. Broth thickened quickly, verjuice became frothy. Plate and serve quickly with hot chicken.

      The verdict:
      Delicious and worth doing again. The flavor and mouth feel were both great. There was an even split on which version of the sauces were better with some favoring the zing of the verjuice over the meatier and more mellow broth, but everyone agreed they could do with more of the fine & sweet spice mixes, by about double. If considereing for a feast the broth version might be more cost effective, and there was one suggestion of doing it without the bone as a version of Cordon Blu, but I love the illusion food aspect of this recipe.  

      What I'd do differently: 
      I tried a new kind of historical cheese (Quark) that while wonderful, wasn't the best choice for this recipe. In the future, I'd stick with options like Ricotta, fresh mozarella, and cheve that are fresh and fairly soft, but not too soft. I think the batter would have possibly been better with fewer eggs as well as firmer cheese as it was a struggle to get it to stay in the wraps because of the consistency. 

      For the sauces, we had too much for the ratio of meat. I'd cut down the liquid volume to 1 cup which would also make for a thicker sauce, unless we also reduced the amount of  eggs. I'd also double the amount of spices used, except for the saffron which seemed to be spot on.  
      IV. Ambrosino bono e perfecto et cetera.
      Se tu voi fare ambrosino per XII persone, toy VI caponi magretti e ij libre de mandole, e una libra de uva passa, e 1 datali, e una libra de brognole, e 1 ½ de genzevro fino, e una ½ entra noce moschate e garof. E zafarano intrego, e meza libra de specie dolçe fine, e toy li caponi e smenbrali e fane septe peze de l’ uno, e mitili a sofrizer in lardo desfato e colado in una cita. E quando sono ben sofriti, la prima cossa che tu gli mitti
      sia lo zenzevro roto e le noce moschate taiate ben trite, e canella rota in bone peçe, e garofalli intrigi, e mandole intriege monde, e datali intrigi ben lavati, e meti dentro specie dolçe [in] gran quantità, e fay coxere un pocho; e quando è coto trai indrieto; quando è coto meti le prime mandole con le gusse non monde, e macenali e destempera con aceto pocho, e quando è cota la vivanda, cola li mandole e mettili sugo con specie e zafarano asay. Questa vivanda vuole essere agra e dolza e vermiglia e stretta, traila indietro e dala per scudelle e polveriza specie di sopra le scudelle.
      IV. (4) Ambrosino (ambrosia) good and perfect and such. {Spicy chicken with dried fruit}
      If you want to make ambrosino for 12 persons take 6 lean capons and 2 pounds of almonds and a pound of currants, and 1 (pound of) dates and a pound of prunes/damson plums (brognole) and 1 ½ of ginger fine and one ½ whole nutmeg and cloves and whole saffron, and half pound of sweet spices, and take the capon and cut into portions and make seven pieces of each, and put it to fry in lard rendered and strained in a pan.  And when it is well fried, the first thing that you must put in is the zenzevro rubbed and the nutmeg chopped well small, and cinnamon broken in good pieces and cloves whole, and almonds whole peeled, and dates whole well washed, and put in sweet spices in large amounts and let cook a little; and when it is cooked take it back (remove off the flame), when it is cooked first put in the almonds with the shell not peeled (unskinned) and grind and distemper (mix) with little vinegar and when it is cooked the dish, strain the almonds and put sauce with spices and enough saffron.  This dish wants to be sharp and sweet and scarlet and sparing take it back (off the fire?) and put it in a bowl and powdered spices over the bowl.
      *  Brognole is translated in Florio as any prune or damson plum, given the context it is most likely to indicate prunes.
      My interpretation:
      Sauce just before plating- description in original source says "this dish should be sharp and sweet and red in color" and I think I managed to hit all three perfectly. :)

      The final recipe (which was supposed to be for 2 but filled 3 people, with leftovers) was 1 whole chicken, cut as described above into 7 pieces, enough lard to sauté (my burner is a bit tilted so I wound up using about 3 tbsp), 4 oz skinless almonds divided in 1/2 (with one half kept whole and the other ground for almond milk), 2 oz red wine vinegar, 2 oz currants, 2 oz dates (I cut into rounds), 2 oz prunes (I cut into 1/4), 1/4 oz fresh ginger, 1/12 whole nutmeg freshly grated, 1/6 oz cloves, 1/6 oz saffron, 1 stick true cinnamon broken into large pieces.
      Brown chicken pieces in lard, until well but not over browned (this took about 15-20 minutes each side), grind almonds for almond milk, soak ground almonds in 3times the volume of red wine vinegar, drain fat then return chicken to pan, strain solids from almond milk and add to pan with chicken, spices and fruit to simmer down for sauce- until chicken is done by meat thermometer &/or juices run clear (it took approx. 30 minutes). Plate chicken then top with sauce, skinless almonds and a sprinkle of sweet spice mix*
      Final verdict was- delicious, but both testers prefer how I usually make this dish with boneless skinless chicken - usually just breasts or thighs (partially due to my beloved's lifelong dislike of eating meat off the bone), and more fruit. The sauce and flavor balance was wonderful! It was a little puckery, but the simmering and spices really brought out the sweetness of the fruit to help balance it. I and the other pork friendly taster had some of both versions and with how flavorful the sauce was there didn't seem to be any noticeable flavor difference between the two fats, or the two variations of almond milk. The sauce was dark enough in color that the strained almond skins didn't cause any noticeable visual variations either.
      *the spice mix used is from this same source: LXXIV Sweet spices, enough for many good and fine things, which I have documented here and will go back and provide a link to later.
       
       
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