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Any suggestions regarding the sail?

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  • jud1929
    Question 2 We are a club building a Classic 12 and now we are at the point discussing the sail. Some members felt strongly the Tyvek is not the way to go. So
    Message 1 of 11 , Apr 18 7:06 PM
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      Question 2

      We are a club building a Classic 12 and now we are at the point
      discussing the sail.

      Some members felt strongly the Tyvek is not the way to go. So we have
      purchased fabric.

      The question now is the shape and size of the sail.

      We will be using the boat in small lake in Conn. Its at least a mile
      across and said to be a good place to sail. This boat is meant for
      pleasure not racing and the rigging should be simple to use. Its
      probably relevant that most of us over 60.

      I've seen a few ideas on the 'net but would like your comments.
      Would you compare using a 12' mast with a 14' ? Is is worth putting a
      'window' in? And at what position?
      Are the sizes suggested in the plans for a Tyvek sail reasonable for a
      fabric sail?

      An additional question relate to sewing the sail. Are there any tricks
      to making it?

      Thanks very much for your help.

      Jud
    • bschless@rasco.com
      If it s not too late move the mast forward a bit and make it a catboat. I just built a 10 and regret I didn t put a centerboard in. You could put an
      Message 2 of 11 , Apr 20 7:21 AM
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        If it's not too late move the mast forward a bit and make it a catboat.  I just built a 10 and regret I didn't put a centerboard in.   You could put an unstayed gaff rig on her and it would be easy to sail (only one sail).    The lines are nearly identical to my Marshall 15 (cat boat).  
        Beau Schless
        President/CEO
        NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems
        Celebrating 15 years exceeding customers' expectations
        HTTP://WWW.RASCO.COM
        PH: 1.(978) 443-2996



        "jud1929" <jud1929@...>
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        04/20/2008 09:49 AM

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        [Airolite_Boats] Any suggestions regarding the sail?






        Question 2

        We are a club building a Classic 12 and now we are at the point
        discussing the sail.

        Some members felt strongly the Tyvek is not the way to go. So we have
        purchased fabric.

        The question now is the shape and size of the sail.

        We will be using the boat in small lake in Conn. Its at least a mile
        across and said to be a good place to sail. This boat is meant for
        pleasure not racing and the rigging should be simple to use. Its
        probably relevant that most of us over 60.

        I've seen a few ideas on the 'net but would like your comments.
        Would you compare using a 12' mast with a 14' ? Is is worth putting a
        'window' in? And at what position?
        Are the sizes suggested in the plans for a Tyvek sail reasonable for a
        fabric sail?

        An additional question relate to sewing the sail. Are there any tricks
        to making it?

        Thanks very much for your help.

        Jud


      • bschless@rasco.com
        I just took my wife out for the first time on our little Classic 10. With one person in the boat she floats a little bow up (the seat should have been moved
        Message 3 of 11 , Apr 20 12:18 PM
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          I just took my wife out for the first time on our little Classic 10.  With one person in the boat she floats a little bow up (the seat should have been moved forward 3" - 4".  With two people in the boat it's way stern heavy and the bow is out of the water.   My seats are exactly as the plan calls for.  My suggestion is to make the mid-ship seat flexible by building a rail 3/4" wide on each side from rib 6 through rib 9 that the seat frame can rest on (using the same little shims that are in the plan to support it)..  Then use dowels to fix the seat in place, which  would allow the seat to be moved forward when there is a person in the stern. I may take mine apart and try this.  It's pretty low in the stern (3" - 4" of freeboard) with a 165 lb rower and a 125 lb. passenger.

          The second thing I'm finding is after 20 minutes or so in the water the dacron starts bleeding through a bit.  I used a high grade marine varnish (which was difficult to brush on).  In retrospect I would have gone to the local hardware store and bought 6 or so cans of clear spray polyurethane.  It dries in 20 minutes and in tests I've done two coats seem to work pretty well on the dacron.

          Beau Schless
          President/CEO
          NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems
          Celebrating 15 years exceeding customers' expectations
          HTTP://WWW.RASCO.COM
          PH: 1.(978) 443-2996
        • Scott Perkins
          Ever consider using exterior household latex paint ? Very flexible and should be water proof and you could build up a thickness with two or more coats... easy
          Message 4 of 11 , Apr 20 12:32 PM
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            Ever consider using exterior household latex paint ?
            Very flexible and should be water proof and you could build
            up a thickness with two or more coats... easy to repair as well


            bschless@... wrote:
            . I used a high grade marine
            > varnish (which was difficult to brush on). In retrospect I would have
            > gone to the local hardware store and bought 6 or so cans of clear
            > spray polyurethane. It dries in 20 minutes and in tests I've done two
            > coats seem to work pretty well on the dacron.
          • bschless@rasco.com
            I m at 51 pounds so far, including bronze oarlocks, an extra teak rubrail, and a bow cleat. I could use latex, but thought about adding (argghhh) more weight.
            Message 5 of 11 , Apr 20 1:47 PM
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              I'm at 51 pounds so far, including bronze oarlocks, an extra teak rubrail, and a bow cleat.  I could use latex, but thought about adding (argghhh) more weight.  Have you found it any stronger?  I've already poked two holes in my skin.  

              I've fantasized about removing the dacron and replacing it with cedar strips and fiberglass.  I built a canoe of cedar 2 years ago and it's pretty bulletproof.

              Beau Schless
              President/CEO
              NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems
              Celebrating 15 years exceeding customers' expectations
              HTTP://WWW.RASCO.COM
              PH: 1.(978) 443-2996



              Scott Perkins <2scott@...>
              Sent by: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

              04/20/2008 04:43 PM

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              Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

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              Re: [Airolite_Boats] Sea Trials - Seat Position and leaks






              Ever consider using exterior household latex paint ?
              Very flexible and should be water proof and you could build
              up a thickness with two or more coats... easy to repair as well

              bschless@... wrote:
              . I used a high grade marine

              > varnish (which was difficult to brush on). In retrospect I would have
              > gone to the local hardware store and bought 6 or so cans of clear
              > spray polyurethane. It dries in 20 minutes and in tests I've done
              two
              > coats seem to work pretty well on the dacron.


            • Elliot Mednick
              I wonder if you have pinholes your varnish didn t fill, especially along the Kevlar. Platt s suggestion is to turn the boat upside down, up a lightbulb
              Message 6 of 11 , Apr 21 8:18 AM
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                I wonder if you have pinholes your varnish didn’t fill, especially along the Kevlar.  Platt’s suggestion is to turn the boat upside down, up a lightbulb inside, and see if you can spot holes.

                 

                I also wonder if the marine-grade varnish compromises the strength integrity of the Dacron.  I used the-the-shelf Spar Urethane varnish.  At first, there was some leakage, but I gave it two more coats, and in doing so, notices I had missed some sections.  Now the boat is bone-dry.  The outside of the Dacron feels almost like plastic, and I haven’t been able to puncture it yet, even though I’ve tried (inadvertently at least).

                 

                It would be fun to get some of us together and compare notes and boats.  Beau is pretty close to me.  Anyone else in MA/NH/ME want to get together either to just look, or to get on the water?

                 

                The second thing I'm finding is after 20 minutes or so in the water the dacron starts bleeding through a bit.  I used a high grade marine varnish (which was difficult to brush on).  In retrospect I would have gone to the local hardware store and bought 6 or so cans of clear spray polyurethane.  It dries in 20 minutes and in tests I've done two coats seem to work pretty well on the dacron.

              • bschless@rasco.com
                I ve got a place up on the Ipswich River (on the ocean, 45 minutes north of Boston). Want to do a get together/BBQ with the families this summer? Beau Schless
                Message 7 of 11 , Apr 21 9:01 AM
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                  I've got a place up on the Ipswich River (on the ocean, 45 minutes north of Boston).  Want to do a get together/BBQ with the families this summer?

                  Beau Schless
                  President/CEO
                  NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems
                  Celebrating 15 years exceeding customers' expectations
                  HTTP://WWW.RASCO.COM
                  PH: 1.(978) 443-2996



                  "Elliot Mednick" <elliot@...>
                  Sent by: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

                  04/21/2008 11:26 AM

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                  Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

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                  <Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com>
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                  RE: [Airolite_Boats] Sea Trials - Seat Position and leaks






                  I wonder if you have pinholes your varnish didn’t fill, especially along the Kevlar.  Platt’s suggestion is to turn the boat upside down, up a lightbulb inside, and see if you can spot holes.

                   

                  I also wonder if the marine-grade varnish compromises the strength integrity of the Dacron.  I used the-the-shelf Spar Urethane varnish.  At first, there was some leakage, but I gave it two more coats, and in doing so, notices I had missed some sections.  Now the boat is bone-dry.  The outside of the Dacron feels almost like plastic, and I haven’t been able to puncture it yet, even though I’ve tried (inadvertently at least).

                   

                  It would be fun to get some of us together and compare notes and boats.  Beau is pretty close to me.  Anyone else in MA/NH/ME want to get together either to just look, or to get on the water?

                   

                  The second thing I'm finding is after 20 minutes or so in the water the dacron starts bleeding through a bit.  I used a high grade marine varnish (which was difficult to brush on).  In retrospect I would have gone to the local hardware store and bought 6 or so cans of clear spray polyurethane.  It dries in 20 minutes and in tests I've done two coats seem to work pretty well on the dacron.


                • sanford count
                  This is a reply to a much earlier post... We started the project of bu8ilding a Classic 12 sailer in Oct. 07. aA group of over 10 Ancient Mariners. We launched
                  Message 8 of 11 , Jul 7, 2008
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                    This is a reply to a much earlier post...
                    We started the project of bu8ilding a Classic 12 sailer in Oct. 07. aA group of over 10 Ancient Mariners. We launched in on Jully 4,08 sucessfully ! Our Dacron was sealed with 3-4 coats of Epoxy. When we cut the dagger board bottom open we found the dacron very difficult to cut. We had contemplated an additional material for the bottom protection, but it's not necessary. Our remaining problem is rigging a snotter. Any ideas?  Sandy

                    bschless@... wrote:

                    I'm at 51 pounds so far, including bronze oarlocks, an extra teak rubrail, and a bow cleat.  I could use latex, but thought about adding (argghhh) more weight.  Have you found it any stronger?  I've already poked two holes in my skin.  

                    I've fantasized about removing the dacron and replacing it with cedar strips and fiberglass.  I built a canoe of cedar 2 years ago and it's pretty bulletproof.

                    Beau Schless
                    President/CEO
                    NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems
                    Celebrating 15 years exceeding customers' expectations
                    HTTP://WWW.RASCO. COM
                    PH: 1.(978) 443-2996



                    Scott Perkins <2scott@bellsouth. net>
                    Sent by: Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com
                    04/20/2008 04:43 PM
                    Please respond to
                    Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com

                    To
                    Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com
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                    Subject
                    Re: [Airolite_Boats] Sea Trials - Seat Position and leaks






                    Ever consider using exterior household latex paint ?
                    Very flexible and should be water proof and you could build
                    up a thickness with two or more coats... easy to repair as well

                    bschless@rasco. com wrote:
                    . I used a high grade marine
                    > varnish (which was difficult to brush on). In retrospect I would have
                    > gone to the local hardware store and bought 6 or so cans of clear
                    > spray polyurethane. It dries in 20 minutes and in tests I've done two
                    > coats seem to work pretty well on the dacron.


                  • bschless@rasco.com
                    wots a snotter? Neau Schless President/CEO NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems Celebrating 15 years exceeding customers expectations HTTP://WWW.RASCO.COM PH:
                    Message 9 of 11 , Jul 7, 2008
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                      wots a snotter?

                      Neau Schless
                      President/CEO
                      NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems
                      Celebrating 15 years exceeding customers' expectations
                      HTTP://WWW.RASCO.COM
                      PH: 1.(978) 443-2996



                      sanford count <sandyroz@...>
                      Sent by: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

                      07/07/2008 08:08 PM

                      Please respond to
                      Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

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                      Re: [Airolite_Boats] Sea Trials - Seat Position and leaks






                      This is a reply to a much earlier post...

                      We started the project of bu8ilding a Classic 12 sailer in Oct. 07. aA group of over 10 Ancient Mariners. We launched in on Jully 4,08 sucessfully ! Our Dacron was sealed with 3-4 coats of Epoxy. When we cut the dagger board bottom open we found the dacron very difficult to cut. We had contemplated an additional material for the bottom protection, but it's not necessary. Our remaining problem is rigging a snotter. Any ideas?  Sandy

                      bschless@...
                      wrote:


                      I'm at 51 pounds so far, including bronze oarlocks, an extra teak rubrail, and a bow cleat.  I could use latex, but thought about adding (argghhh) more weight.  Have you found it any stronger?  I've already poked two holes in my skin.  


                      I've fantasized about removing the dacron and replacing it with cedar strips and fiberglass.  I built a canoe of cedar 2 years ago and it's pretty bulletproof.


                      Beau Schless
                      President/CEO
                      NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems
                      Celebrating 15 years exceeding customers' expectations
                      HTTP://WWW.RASCO.COM
                      PH: 1.(978) 443-2996



                      Scott Perkins <2scott@...>
                      Sent by: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

                      04/20/2008 04:43 PM
                      Please respond to
                      Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

                      To
                      Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
                      cc
                      Subject
                      Re: [Airolite_Boats] Sea Trials - Seat Position and leaks








                      Ever consider using exterior household latex paint ?
                      Very flexible and should be water proof and you could build
                      up a thickness with two or more coats... easy to repair as well


                      bschless@... wrote:
                      . I used a high grade marine
                      > varnish (which was difficult to brush on). In retrospect I would have
                      > gone to the local hardware store and bought 6 or so cans of clear
                      > spray polyurethane. It dries in 20 minutes and in tests I've done
                      two
                      > coats seem to work pretty well on the dacron.



                    • kmuldrew2
                      ... On my Blivit, I used a windsurfing mast. Since 2 ABS plumbing pipe fits almost perfectly around that, I cut off about a 6 piece of pipe and cut it in
                      Message 10 of 11 , Jul 8, 2008
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                        --- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, sanford count <sandyroz@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > Our remaining problem is rigging a snotter. Any ideas? Sandy

                        On my Blivit, I used a windsurfing mast. Since 2" ABS plumbing pipe
                        fits almost perfectly around that, I cut off about a 6" piece of pipe
                        and cut it in half lengthwise. Then I glued 1/8" foam rubber on the
                        inside of both halves, riveted hinges on one side so that the cylinder
                        could be opened and closed, and riveted the buckles from an old
                        rollerblade onto the other side to clamp it shut. Then I bolted a J
                        hook onto the tube.

                        After raising my sail, I just clamp the snotter assembly onto the mast
                        and hang the boom over the hook with a small loop of rope tied to the
                        front of the boom.

                        Works like a charm and I didn't have to bolt anything into the mast.
                      • bschless@rasco.com
                        I m rethinking my 10 classic. Maybe it should be a sailboat. Does anyone have experience putting leeboards (versus a centerboard) on a classic? Beau Schless
                        Message 11 of 11 , Jul 9, 2008
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                          I'm rethinking my 10' classic.  Maybe it should be a sailboat.  Does anyone have experience putting leeboards (versus a centerboard) on a classic?

                          Beau Schless
                          President/CEO
                          NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems
                          Celebrating 15 years exceeding customers' expectations
                          HTTP://WWW.RASCO.COM
                          PH: 1.(978) 443-2996



                          "kmuldrew2" <kmuldrew@...>
                          Sent by: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

                          07/09/2008 07:29 AM

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                          [Airolite_Boats] Re: Sea Trials - Seat Position and leaks






                          --- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, sanford count <sandyroz@...> wrote:

                          >
                          > Our remaining problem is rigging a snotter. Any ideas? Sandy

                          On my Blivit, I used a windsurfing mast. Since 2" ABS plumbing pipe
                          fits almost perfectly around that, I cut off about a 6" piece of pipe
                          and cut it in half lengthwise. Then I glued 1/8" foam rubber on the
                          inside of both halves, riveted hinges on one side so that the cylinder
                          could be opened and closed, and riveted the buckles from an old
                          rollerblade onto the other side to clamp it shut. Then I bolted a J
                          hook onto the tube.

                          After raising my sail, I just clamp the snotter assembly onto the mast
                          and hang the boom over the hook with a small loop of rope tied to the
                          front of the boom.

                          Works like a charm and I didn't have to bolt anything into the mast.


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