- Anton et al. If I were adding floatation to one of these boats (mine floats fine even full of water) I would add two floatation bags, one in each end. TheseMessage 1 of 16 , Feb 6, 2013View SourceAnton et al.
If I were adding floatation to one of these boats (mine floats fine even full of water) I would add two floatation bags, one in each end. These are the types of floatation bags used in whitewater canoes. A cage made of cord can be tied in the ends and the bags inflated inside of the cage. These can be found at any whitewater paddling shop, REI in the US or MEC in Canada. I do a lot of whitewater paddling in canoes and these bags are very effective.
AaronSent from my BlackBerryFrom: anton berteaux <junkmailsupreme@...>Sender: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.comDate: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 09:48:00 -0800To: <Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com>ReplyTo: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.comSubject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Seekimg a solo tub approach.
Dang it, I really don't need any more books on the shelf, but I had to get this one! Thankfully there is Amazon.What about a floor, maybe even slats with Dacron, holding in a loosely fitted, airtight bag as flotation? Like a dry bag used for storage of items in a closed off area? Storage and floatation at the same time? It would just have to be secured well enough that it would not ever come loose and allow the boat to sink...AntonOn Feb 4, 2013, at 3:19 PM, Anthony Townsend wrote:
Phil,You might also look through some of Dave Gentry's designs and experiments. He had a very narrow outrigger canoe at Sail Oklahoma back in Oct. 2012 that might be similar in terms of structure to what you are considering. Dave is a great guy with a lot of experience and success moving traditional designs to SOF.TonyOn Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 2:32 PM, fiatphil2000 <p.dorothy@...> wrote:
Every once in a while, something new and worthwile floats by and I happen to be looking. On your advice, I ordered Dierking's book and found it a fascinating read. Particularly the "Shunting" concept. I like the asymmetric design of the T2. It seems very fast, stable and efficient with the Gibbons/Dierking sail.
I think your canoe appears traditional and full depth. What are your thoughts about the sealed lower compartment of the T2 in a Platt design?
Could a flange be built that would seal a plywood floor against the sides of Dacron? We assume our Dacron will be as watertight as his strip planked hull, but I'm not sure how to seal the floor.
One alternative would be to sandwich foam between all the bulkheads below the floor and lay the floor on top. This would add some weight, but not the 65 lbs his strip planked hull weighed. One could fair the foam between bulkheads and apply the dacon and Kevlar per usual. It would stiffen the hull and afford some puncture protection.
I'm going to 3D model the hull and calulate the actual volume/weight of the foam. Rough estimate is 20 lb. before lightening holes.
As you seem to be the only person who has done the outrigger. I would appreciate your thoughts on the very deep and sharp T2 hull. Also any experience with the very light Ama (outrigger).
--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "Caruk, Gord" wrote:
> Hi George.
> In your first post on this topic back in Dec it sounded like you were wondering if Platt's method's could be used for the boat you're considering. My answer is yes. That method will work for other boats, and not just for the plans that are available from him. Here's an outrigger canoe that I built a couple years ago. The boat was built using Platt's methods from measurements in tables in Gary Dierking's book http://www.amazon.ca/Building-Outrigger-Sailing-Canoes-Construction/dp/0071487913/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1359059790&sr=8-2 This looks somewhat like where you're headed.