- Earl, I ve added four photographs to my photo album, on this web site ( moszczak_Arrow14 ), regarding the Kevlar roving detail...hopefully, to show othersMessage 1 of 5 , Oct 5, 2007View SourceEarl,I've added four photographs to my photo album, on this web site ( "moszczak_Arrow14" ), regarding the Kevlar roving detail...hopefully, to show others how at least one person (me), attacked the Kevlar roving task, cutting from the spools supplied with Platt's kit for the Arrow14.
Earl, I agree with you that the roving instruction is not very well explained in the plan literature.But surprisingly, once you start to install the Kevlar threads against the gunnels, using the HeatnBond adhesive strips(great stuff), it holds remarkably well, if one is reasonably careful in moving the canoe. In most of these photos, I've righted the canoe (flipping the frame) off the saw-horses, following my roving installation...and flopped it on the lawn to admire my handi-work. As my "wife unit" says,..... ' You do a simple task, then admire it for half an hour."' I guess it's a good thing I'm not in a mass production job...we'd have starved by now!In my photos, the small "blue flags" are just pieces of "painters tape" ( stuff I had on hand) that I applied to the Kevlar on the spool, which allowed me to cut the Kevlar roving with a reasonably sharp scissors). Without the use of some type of tape (regular masking tape will do) across the intended Kevlar cut line, my experience was that the scissors tended to "gnaw at" the Kevlar fibers, rather than cut the thread cleanly. So this might be another hint/tip for others waiting to work with the Kevlar roving...use tape on the roving, and cut across the tape/Kevlar composite!In my photos, each of the individual Kevlar "strings" spans four rib stations, on the diagonal...it was not explained in the instructions, but I started from my mid-station and worked my way to either the fore or the aft ends of the canoe. A couple of times I got mixed up...but Platt's spools supply enough Kevlar roving to make a few mistakes and recover nicely. Also leave a generous amount of roving thread to "repull and Re-tension" after the Dacron skin is installed. That's about it, from my viewpoint!As I sat back and admired my "work on the lawn" ...I could only think; " ...life is good" ...for that matter: "...beer is good."Hope this helps some folks ready to do the roving...I know I learned much from other contributors on this web site, from studying their photos!Mike O.----- Original Message -----From: lovetheclumberspanielSent: Friday, October 05, 2007 3:41 PMSubject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Question for any Rob Roy builders--Help!
--- In Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com, "mike&jane_osz" <mosz@...> wrote:
> In my interpretation of the process, I used 1-inch, HeatnBond
strips, ironed on to the gunnels to hold the Kevlar roving in place
(using silk/Dacron setting on my iron...
Thanks, Mike. Maybe I get it now. In looking at the plans I thought
you ran the kevlar in one continuous length, back and forth. I
couldn't figure out how you would ever tighten something like that.
But you evidently run a piece from one side, across to the other
gunnel and then cut it. So each diagonal strip is separate. Is that
Is that how you all did it? Makes more sense.
- Thanks for the pictures and info. I think I have it now. Guess I should have bought the video :) EarlMessage 2 of 5 , Oct 7, 2007View SourceThanks for the pictures and info. I think I have it now. Guess I should
have bought the video :)