- My keel had a dip to it when sighted as your photo. I glue a piece in and then fared it of with a small plane. It isn t bad looking and didn t take muchMessage 1 of 5 , Apr 27, 2011View SourceMy keel had a dip to it when sighted as your photo. I glue a piece in and then fared it of with a small plane. It isn't bad looking and didn't take much time. Added weight was only a couple of ounces. Good luck and happy paddling. Taffy
From: floatingcanuck <mikelisav@...>
Sent: Tue, April 26, 2011 7:42:56 PM
Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Snowshoe Lassie - ack - my keel is hogged already!
Hi all, I'm not sure how I hosed this up, and not sure whether the dacron/kevlar wrap process is intended to take this out (doubt it) but I'm about to hack off my whole keel due to it being hogged out (opposite of rockered). Note picture linked here https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Ny7K5Bx7hYXwv6dyLJ_YEC1DRxqlx8aSBIKMcPmbK-4?feat=directlink
When I had it on station molds I plummed it perfectly straight and level (note the blocks I had to add to keep it from being even worse).
Any ideas on how to fix vs cutting the whole thing off and starting over?
thank you. Mike
Build 'happenings' that may have caused this; 1. I did not soak/steam my gunwales or inwales as suggested as they bent fine and held in the station mold notches just fine (perhaps the inherent flex when releasing from the station molds caused my backward keel?) 2. I notched in the station molds closest to the stems just a bit, to get the stringers to lay in with a natural curve (versus the bowed out way the molds seemed to want to force them out) https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lLxxWdmNnQAGZDPpxGmLlC1DRxqlx8aSBIKMcPmbK-4?feat=directlink
- Mike, In the photos below you can see something similar happened with my boat. It was bugging me and so I decided to fix it. First I measured how much theMessage 2 of 5 , May 2, 2011View SourceMike,In the photos below you can see something similar happened with my boat. It was bugging me and so I decided to fix it. First I measured how much the keel had to move, similar error fore and aft (centre section was ok), then cut the joints with a flush cut oscillating saw. Next I inserted shims under the keel using the level as a straightedge to be able to tell when I was where I needed to be. I marked the shims then glued them in, using the weights to mildly clamp the joints. I cut the shims off with the flush cut saw.All this said, the repair was totally unnecessary. The boat tracks like it's on rails, something I was actually hoping to avoid, hoping instead for a boat that turns better. However with entry lines like these boats have, they will track anyway. That leaves drag as a possible factor with a keel line with "reverse rocker" as yours has. I have another boat with a keel that dips a bit toward centre, and it's one of my fastest canoes, probably because it tracks so well. I wouldn't suggest it be done on purpose, but I can't imagine that (with my current understanding of boat design) a dip of 1/2" or so would make a major difference in paddling characteristics. That leaves aesthetics, which is totally your call. I think if you leave it the way it is tracking will be increased ever so slightly, making holding a course in windy conditions (something these boats already excel at) easily done.Hope all that helps!!Cheers,Aaron