I didn't think about putting dimensions on the drawing for you. The bottom (fixed) portion of the rail is 2" and the top rail 3" outside dimensions (that gives a 1/2 on each side of the "C" section.)
I used the molded in screw eyelets to determine the location of the floor slats (one of the reasons I put in twice as many floor slats as the plans called for).
Also I used Oak for the seat rails for ruggedness, but that was probably overkill. One other thing I guess you should consider is the final height of the seat, since you are building a canoe you may not want to be sitting quite so low. Because they are so light, these suckers are TIPPY and squirley feeling, and will take a little time in the water to get used to the
feeling of it, and feel confident that you're not really going to flip over unless you really try to. I'm actually sitting below the water line and that helps.
Also one thing I did that wasn't in the plans was to add an keel strip on the bottom (mostly for protection against scraping on rocks), but it also added a small amount of stability and helped it track straighter.
I also used oak faced luan plywood as the deck, gunnels and trim. I'll attach a couple more pics, and maybe this will give you some ideas.
Have you finished your paddle yet? I made a wooden paddle that was hollow in the middle using 2 strips of L shaped oak trim as the shaft (found in the moulding section of Lowes), it was nice and light, but I've since gone to a carbon paddle that has a little more 'bite' in the water.
Stay in touch and I'd like to see some pics when you get to
From: Rich Kleinhenz <woodnpen@...>
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 11:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: seats and seating ideas
Completely clear, thank you very much!
check out Walmart when I get near one. How wide is the stationary
rail you used? Were the cross-sectional dimensions chosen pretty
much to fit the existing screw eyelets?
On 12/12/2011 7:59 AM, Bassman4940 wrote: