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Re: ATS-3b.1 display problem

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  • jsissom
    Thanks. Yes, I was able to fix it. I used some hot air, then solder wick and an iron. I followed the rest of the instructions for alignment and everything
    Message 1 of 17 , Jun 2, 2010
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      Thanks. Yes, I was able to fix it. I used some hot air, then solder wick and an iron.

      I followed the rest of the instructions for alignment and everything went as the documentation indicated. I haven't finished all the band boards yet so I haven't actually used the radio. I have screwed up 2 Altoid's tins trying to make the holes in the proper place so I need to finish that also. :) I'm glad Altoid's tins are so inexpensive.

      I'll try it out with a dummy load and another transceiver to see how it works and let you know.

      73
      Jay
      W9IUF

      --- In AT_Sprint@yahoogroups.com, "Arthur home" <ripple.arthur@...> wrote:
      >
      > it was the top left of the display chip shorted top to pins a solder sucker and a hot iron got the extra solder out and fixed it .
      > Art
      > Good luck with it
      >
      > have you set the transmitter offset to align with the receiver yet?
      > when I call cq or another station , the called station comes back to me at 1200hzs high pitched tone its like Its not set correctly and almost out of the band pass of the receiver ?
      >
      > Art
      >
      >
      > From: jsissom
      > Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2010 8:21 AM
      > To: AT_Sprint@yahoogroups.com
      > Subject: [AT_Sprint] Re: ATS-3b.1 display problem
      >
      >
      >
      > Yesterday I got up the nerve to build my ATS 3B.1 from run #4. Everything was going very well and I got the main board built yesterday. When I powered it up, I heard 8 and saw the 8 so I thought I was all set. Then I started playing with it and found the exact same symptoms you listed here! 1,4,5,6,7,8,9 display OK but 2,0,3 don't. So I will give this a shot and see what happens. I tried measuring the resistance with a digital meter and didn't see anything, but I'll try an analog one using the procedure you used.
      >
      > If I were to do this again, I wouldn't have put solder paste on the pads before putting the display on the board. I bet that has to do with my issue. The display didn't magically move into place when I heated it up. It is offset just a little from the pads. It didn't look bad, but there is an issue in there somewhere.
      >
      > Thanks for the help. Hopefully I'll get this finished up this weekend.
      >
      > 73
      > Jay
      > W9IUF
      >
      > --- In AT_Sprint@yahoogroups.com, "Arthur home" <ripple.arthur@> wrote:
      > >
      > > That's what it was g and f leads were shorted together I used an analog meter with the tone on ohm's
      > > the black lead to grd and the red to the inputs of the 7 seg led and could light each segment until g and f it lit both from either pin
      > >
      > > Thanks for the HELP this is a Great group
      > >
      > > 72 and 73 de NS7E Arthur
      > >
      > >
      > > From: Dale Putnam
      > > Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 8:21 AM
      > > To: AT Sprint
      > > Subject: RE: [AT_Sprint] Re: ATS-3b.1 display problem
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Some one made a comment about the display and having difficulty with centering the contact point to the board. This is a bit of a chore, care must be used. Now, even with all the care, exacting placement it doesn't work, right? Murphy is alive and well, working his magic, at every oppurtunity, and this is another playground he has discovered. So what to do? If you are comfortable with very careful hot air placement, that might be a way to go, however, remember Murphy is alive and well... so if repair is the goal, hot air may not be the method you'd want to choose. Cash Olson's solder rework is good, and it will allow you to rework the entire display if needed. Or.. more direct and less fuss, for me, is the application of the direct pin that is causing the issue. Trace the issue down to the exact connetion. I've found more than half the supposed display issues to be the resistors feeding the display. The other half is the display connection to the board, and knowing exactly which one is the culprit, will allow you to concentrate only on that one, and correct it. With a meter you should be able to measure the voltage dropped across the lacking solder joint. The one that isn't making contact will have excessive drop. The current flow can be usually corrected with heat applied with a thin point soldering iron. Might take twice or even three times, but once done.. the display comes right up....
      > > However.. this is just about the time that you now find the cute buttons... aren't so cute any longer... in fact they aren't quite as longer as they were.... and now... yep, now you find how Murphy plays so well,... behind all that extra smoke, that came up from the plastic.... not the solder. Nutz... now you need a bit more solder wick or solder rework. The buttons can be worked around.. it just takes a bit more planning to outsmart Mr. Murphy, is all.
      > > Good Luck,
      > >
      > > Have a great day, it's fun isn't it? Outsmarting Murphy?
      > >
      > >
      > > --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > ----------------------------------------------------------
      > >
      > > .
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > ----------------------------------------------------------
      > > The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Get started.
      > >
      >
    • Arthur home
      did the trick of lighting each led with the low current voltage of the meter tone ohm setting works neat I thought whatever makes it easier for us hi hi 73s
      Message 2 of 17 , Jun 3, 2010
      • 0 Attachment
        did the trick of lighting each led with the low current voltage of the meter tone ohm setting works neat I thought whatever makes it easier for us hi hi 73s Art'

        From: jsissom
        Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 2:58 PM
        Subject: [AT_Sprint] Re: ATS-3b.1 display problem

         



        Thanks. Yes, I was able to fix it. I used some hot air, then solder wick and an iron.

        I followed the rest of the instructions for alignment and everything went as the documentation indicated. I haven't finished all the band boards yet so I haven't actually used the radio. I have screwed up 2 Altoid's tins trying to make the holes in the proper place so I need to finish that also. :) I'm glad Altoid's tins are so inexpensive.

        I'll try it out with a dummy load and another transceiver to see how it works and let you know.

        73
        Jay
        W9IUF

        --- In AT_Sprint@yahoogroups.com, "Arthur home" <ripple.arthur@...> wrote:

        >
        > it was the top left of
        the display chip shorted top to pins a solder sucker and a hot iron got the extra solder out and fixed it .
        > Art
        > Good luck with it
        >
        > have you set the transmitter offset to align with the receiver
        yet?
        > when I call cq or another station , the called station comes back
        to me at 1200hzs high pitched tone its like Its not set correctly and almost out of the band pass of the receiver ?
        >
        > Art
        >
        >
        > From: jsissom
        > Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2010 8:21 AM
        > To:
        AT_Sprint@yahoogroups.com
        > Subject: [AT_Sprint] Re: ATS-3b.1 display problem
        >
        >
        >
        > Yesterday I got up the nerve to build my ATS 3B.1 from run #4.
        Everything was going very well and I got the main board built yesterday. When I powered it up, I heard 8 and saw the 8 so I thought I was all set. Then I started playing with it and found the exact same symptoms you listed here! 1,4,5,6,7,8,9 display OK but 2,0,3 don't. So I will give this a shot and see what happens. I tried measuring the resistance with a digital meter and didn't see anything, but I'll try an analog one using the procedure you used.
        >
        > If I were to do this again, I wouldn't have put solder paste on the
        pads before putting the display on the board. I bet that has to do with my issue. The display didn't magically move into place when I heated it up. It is offset just a little from the pads. It didn't look bad, but there is an issue in there somewhere.
        >
        > Thanks for the help. Hopefully I'll get this
        finished up this weekend.
        >
        > 73
        > Jay
        > W9IUF
        >
        > --- In
        href="mailto:AT_Sprint%40yahoogroups.com">AT_Sprint@yahoogroups.com, "Arthur home" <ripple.arthur@> wrote:
        > >
        > > That's what it was
        g and f leads were shorted together I used an analog meter with the tone on ohm's
        > > the black lead to grd and the red to the inputs of the 7 seg
        led and could light each segment until g and f it lit both from either pin
        > >
        > > Thanks for the HELP this is a Great group
        > >
        > > 72 and 73 de NS7E Arthur
        > >
        > >
        > > From: Dale Putnam
        > > Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 8:21
        AM
        > > To: AT Sprint
        > > Subject: RE: [AT_Sprint] Re:
        ATS-3b.1 display problem
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        Some one made a comment about the display and having difficulty with centering the contact point to the board. This is a bit of a chore, care must be used. Now, even with all the care, exacting placement it doesn't work, right? Murphy is alive and well, working his magic, at every oppurtunity, and this is another playground he has discovered. So what to do? If you are comfortable with very careful hot air placement, that might be a way to go, however, remember Murphy is alive and well... so if repair is the goal, hot air may not be the method you'd want to choose. Cash Olson's solder rework is good, and it will allow you to rework the entire display if needed. Or.. more direct and less fuss, for me, is the application of the direct pin that is causing the issue. Trace the issue down to the exact connetion. I've found more than half the supposed display issues to be the resistors feeding the display. The other half is the display connection to the board, and knowing exactly which one is the culprit, will allow you to concentrate only on that one, and correct it. With a meter you should be able to measure the voltage dropped across the lacking solder joint. The one that isn't making contact will have excessive drop. The current flow can be usually corrected with heat applied with a thin point soldering iron. Might take twice or even three times, but once done.. the display comes right up....
        > > However.. this is just about the time that you now find the
        cute buttons... aren't so cute any longer... in fact they aren't quite as longer as they were.... and now... yep, now you find how Murphy plays so well,... behind all that extra smoke, that came up from the plastic.... not the solder. Nutz... now you need a bit more solder wick or solder rework. The buttons can be worked around.. it just takes a bit more planning to outsmart Mr. Murphy, is all.
        > > Good Luck,
        > >
        > > Have a great day, it's
        fun isn't it? Outsmarting Murphy?
        > >
        > >
        > >
        --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        ----------------------------------------------------------
        > >
        > > .
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        ----------------------------------------------------------
        > > The New
        Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Get started.
        > >
        >

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