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Re: Auto Feed Drive Problem

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  • dave_mucha
    I may be reading your post wrong, or reading into it too much.... If your purchase did not include all the parts, it might have been a return. if that is the
    Message 1 of 14 , Dec 1, 2010
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      I may be reading your post wrong, or reading into it too much....

      If your purchase did not include all the parts, it might have been a return.

      if that is the case, it is very possible that the lathe was used, damaged, then returned.

      If you suspect that to be the case, you have two choices. get customer service on the line and get the parts you need, or go to the store, buy another one, put the used one in the box, package it up all neatly and return it. From what you describe, that might have been done already.

      it is pretty hard to wear out most of the part if they are taken care of, or even not taken care of too well.

      Dave


      --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com, "fwissen" <fwissen@...> wrote:
      >
      > Well, this is my first post and I am hoping to get some help with a problem that I am experiencing. I recently purchased a used Harbor Freight 7"x10" metal lathe (#33684). I cleaned it up and lubed all the surfaces. It runs good and all the parts and slides move with no problems. When I purchased the lathe the auto feed pinions (20T & 25T) were broken. I also didn't know it at the time but all the threading gears were missing.
      >
      > I ordered and replaced the auto feed pinions and also ordered the threading gears. I replaced them tonight and this is where the problem arises. I put the gears on for a 12 tooth/in pattern just to test the auto feed. Well the auto feed pinions won't stay engaged. The body is worn enough that the auto feed direction selector pin pops out and the pinions disengage causing the auto feed to not move. So, I held the auto feed pinions engaged and then engaged the automatic feed lever. The torque that is created causes the auto feed pinions to still not stay engaged. It almost sounds like there is some slipping inside of the lathe housing. I could see all the pinions and gears on the left side of the lathe and they were not the ones making noise. Could there be a gear problem inside of the headstock casting that I can't see when trying to use the auto feed feature?
      >
      > Other than auto feed, there seems to be no problems with this lathe and I would really like to get that fixed if anyone can give me some pointers as to where to look.
      > Thanks!
      > Fred
      >
    • fwissen
      Dave, I wasn t very clear on my post. I purchased the lathe second hand. It is my first metal lathe but I am fairly hands on but didn t know which way to turn
      Message 2 of 14 , Dec 1, 2010
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        Dave,

        I wasn't very clear on my post. I purchased the lathe second hand. It is my first metal lathe but I am fairly hands on but didn't know which way to turn with this problem.

        Fred

        --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com, "dave_mucha" <dave_mucha@...> wrote:
        >
        > I may be reading your post wrong, or reading into it too much....
        >
        > If your purchase did not include all the parts, it might have been a return.
        >
        > if that is the case, it is very possible that the lathe was used, damaged, then returned.
        >
        > If you suspect that to be the case, you have two choices. get customer service on the line and get the parts you need, or go to the store, buy another one, put the used one in the box, package it up all neatly and return it. From what you describe, that might have been done already.
        >
        > it is pretty hard to wear out most of the part if they are taken care of, or even not taken care of too well.
        >
        > Dave
        >
        >
        > --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com, "fwissen" <fwissen@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Well, this is my first post and I am hoping to get some help with a problem that I am experiencing. I recently purchased a used Harbor Freight 7"x10" metal lathe (#33684). I cleaned it up and lubed all the surfaces. It runs good and all the parts and slides move with no problems. When I purchased the lathe the auto feed pinions (20T & 25T) were broken. I also didn't know it at the time but all the threading gears were missing.
        > >
        > > I ordered and replaced the auto feed pinions and also ordered the threading gears. I replaced them tonight and this is where the problem arises. I put the gears on for a 12 tooth/in pattern just to test the auto feed. Well the auto feed pinions won't stay engaged. The body is worn enough that the auto feed direction selector pin pops out and the pinions disengage causing the auto feed to not move. So, I held the auto feed pinions engaged and then engaged the automatic feed lever. The torque that is created causes the auto feed pinions to still not stay engaged. It almost sounds like there is some slipping inside of the lathe housing. I could see all the pinions and gears on the left side of the lathe and they were not the ones making noise. Could there be a gear problem inside of the headstock casting that I can't see when trying to use the auto feed feature?
        > >
        > > Other than auto feed, there seems to be no problems with this lathe and I would really like to get that fixed if anyone can give me some pointers as to where to look.
        > > Thanks!
        > > Fred
        > >
        >
      • fwissen
        I appreciate the info so far and I will try to answer some of the questions below and ask a few more. The leadscrew: I don t believe it is too difficult to
        Message 3 of 14 , Dec 1, 2010
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          I appreciate the info so far and I will try to answer some of the questions below and ask a few more.

          The leadscrew: I don't believe it is too difficult to turn based on the ability to turn it by hand from the gear end. However, the large black handle on the front of the lathe that moves the slide mechanisms is a little tight to turn. I don't have to grunt on it but I can't move it with ease. How difficult should it be to turn the black handwheel on the front of the lathe?

          Being new to metal lathes, I am uncertain what the half-nuts or pillow blocks are. I will check the file section for further clarification.

          As far as the drive belt. I do believe it is possibly misadjusted slightly. It seems looser than I would expect.

          I am leaning toward a misalignment just based on the indications that I am getting. There seems to be binding somewhere and binding usually means misalignment....at least that is what I think....

          Another question that I have, would it produce less torque if I tried to make more threads/in than the 12/in that I tried? The movement would be slower.

          Thanks for the info on where to look!

          Fred

          --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com, "Roy" <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
          >
          > The only way to resolve a drive problem inside the headstock (HS) is to remove it from the lathe bed & look at what's going on inside. With the HS off, you can inspect the gears & make sure the speed selector is giving full engagement on both speeds. It's also possible that the drive belt is misadjusted.
          >
          > The threading issue breaks down into several parts; first, the leadscrew shouldn't be too hard to turn, even with the half-nuts engaged. The usual cause of problems is misalignment of the pillow blocks that support the leadscrew. There's also a half-nut adjustment procedure in the "files" section that may help.
          >
          > The tumbler detent issue is repairable, if the problem persists after the leadscrew is rotating freely. Simply deepening the detent holes may fix it, if not, you can try a stiffer spring in the handle.
          >
          > Roy
          >
          >
          > --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com, "fwissen" <fwissen@> wrote:
          > >
          > > Well, this is my first post and I am hoping to get some help with a problem that I am experiencing. I recently purchased a used Harbor Freight 7"x10" metal lathe (#33684). I cleaned it up and lubed all the surfaces. It runs good and all the parts and slides move with no problems. When I purchased the lathe the auto feed pinions (20T & 25T) were broken. I also didn't know it at the time but all the threading gears were missing.
          > >
          > > I ordered and replaced the auto feed pinions and also ordered the threading gears. I replaced them tonight and this is where the problem arises. I put the gears on for a 12 tooth/in pattern just to test the auto feed. Well the auto feed pinions won't stay engaged. The body is worn enough that the auto feed direction selector pin pops out and the pinions disengage causing the auto feed to not move. So, I held the auto feed pinions engaged and then engaged the automatic feed lever. The torque that is created causes the auto feed pinions to still not stay engaged. It almost sounds like there is some slipping inside of the lathe housing. I could see all the pinions and gears on the left side of the lathe and they were not the ones making noise. Could there be a gear problem inside of the headstock casting that I can't see when trying to use the auto feed feature?
          > >
          > > Other than auto feed, there seems to be no problems with this lathe and I would really like to get that fixed if anyone can give me some pointers as to where to look.
          > > Thanks!
          > > Fred
          > >
          >
        • From Keith's desktop
          Hi I had this problem once and it was the bearings on the leadscrew that were binding. check that the leadscrew will turn easily with no gear attached. Best
          Message 4 of 14 , Dec 1, 2010
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            Hi
             
            I had this problem once and it was the bearings on the leadscrew that were binding. check that the leadscrew will turn easily with no gear attached.
             
            Best Regards



            Keith Martin

            Leeds U.K.

            check my web page at:
            http://www.keithmart.co.uk
            ----- Original Message -----
            From: fwissen
            Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 10:37 PM
            Subject: [7x10minilathe] Auto Feed Drive Problem

             

            Well, this is my first post and I am hoping to get some help with a problem that I am experiencing. I recently purchased a used Harbor Freight 7"x10" metal lathe (#33684). I cleaned it up and lubed all the surfaces. It runs good and all the parts and slides move with no problems. When I purchased the lathe the auto feed pinions (20T & 25T) were broken. I also didn't know it at the time but all the threading gears were missing.

            I ordered and replaced the auto feed pinions and also ordered the threading gears. I replaced them tonight and this is where the problem arises. I put the gears on for a 12 tooth/in pattern just to test the auto feed. Well the auto feed pinions won't stay engaged. The body is worn enough that the auto feed direction selector pin pops out and the pinions disengage causing the auto feed to not move. So, I held the auto feed pinions engaged and then engaged the automatic feed lever. The torque that is created causes the auto feed pinions to still not stay engaged. It almost sounds like there is some slipping inside of the lathe housing. I could see all the pinions and gears on the left side of the lathe and they were not the ones making noise. Could there be a gear problem inside of the headstock casting that I can't see when trying to use the auto feed feature?

            Other than auto feed, there seems to be no problems with this lathe and I would really like to get that fixed if anyone can give me some pointers as to where to look.
            Thanks!
            Fred


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          • chris heintz
            The drive belt can be looser because it is a toothed belt rather than a conventional V belt. the split nut is the split nut on the carriage that engages with
            Message 5 of 14 , Dec 1, 2010
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              The drive belt can be looser because it is a toothed belt rather than a conventional V belt. the split nut is the split nut on the carriage that engages with the leadsrew. the pillow blocks support the lead screw at either end.

              The carriage handwheel (black thing) should be fairly easy to turn. Like, one finger easy. You should carefully adjust your carriage slide plates that hold the saddle down. Be careful not to snap them, as they are, as far as I can remember, cast iron. Don't try to use power feed until you can reasonably turn the leadscrew by hand with the split nuts engaged, but the tumbler disengaged or you will probably break things.

              On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 10:31 AM, fwissen <fwissen@...> wrote:
               

              I appreciate the info so far and I will try to answer some of the questions below and ask a few more.

              The leadscrew: I don't believe it is too difficult to turn based on the ability to turn it by hand from the gear end. However, the large black handle on the front of the lathe that moves the slide mechanisms is a little tight to turn. I don't have to grunt on it but I can't move it with ease. How difficult should it be to turn the black handwheel on the front of the lathe?

              Being new to metal lathes, I am uncertain what the half-nuts or pillow blocks are. I will check the file section for further clarification.

              As far as the drive belt. I do believe it is possibly misadjusted slightly. It seems looser than I would expect.

              I am leaning toward a misalignment just based on the indications that I am getting. There seems to be binding somewhere and binding usually means misalignment....at least that is what I think....

              Another question that I have, would it produce less torque if I tried to make more threads/in than the 12/in that I tried? The movement would be slower.

              Thanks for the info on where to look!

              Fred

              --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com, "Roy" <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
              >
              > The only way to resolve a drive problem inside the headstock (HS) is to remove it from the lathe bed & look at what's going on inside. With the HS off, you can inspect the gears & make sure the speed selector is giving full engagement on both speeds. It's also possible that the drive belt is misadjusted.
              >
              > The threading issue breaks down into several parts; first, the leadscrew shouldn't be too hard to turn, even with the half-nuts engaged. The usual cause of problems is misalignment of the pillow blocks that support the leadscrew. There's also a half-nut adjustment procedure in the "files" section that may help.
              >
              > The tumbler detent issue is repairable, if the problem persists after the leadscrew is rotating freely. Simply deepening the detent holes may fix it, if not, you can try a stiffer spring in the handle.
              >
              > Roy


              >
              >
              > --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com, "fwissen" <fwissen@> wrote:
              > >
              > > Well, this is my first post and I am hoping to get some help with a problem that I am experiencing. I recently purchased a used Harbor Freight 7"x10" metal lathe (#33684). I cleaned it up and lubed all the surfaces. It runs good and all the parts and slides move with no problems. When I purchased the lathe the auto feed pinions (20T & 25T) were broken. I also didn't know it at the time but all the threading gears were missing.
              > >
              > > I ordered and replaced the auto feed pinions and also ordered the threading gears. I replaced them tonight and this is where the problem arises. I put the gears on for a 12 tooth/in pattern just to test the auto feed. Well the auto feed pinions won't stay engaged. The body is worn enough that the auto feed direction selector pin pops out and the pinions disengage causing the auto feed to not move. So, I held the auto feed pinions engaged and then engaged the automatic feed lever. The torque that is created causes the auto feed pinions to still not stay engaged. It almost sounds like there is some slipping inside of the lathe housing. I could see all the pinions and gears on the left side of the lathe and they were not the ones making noise. Could there be a gear problem inside of the headstock casting that I can't see when trying to use the auto feed feature?
              > >
              > > Other than auto feed, there seems to be no problems with this lathe and I would really like to get that fixed if anyone can give me some pointers as to where to look.
              > > Thanks!
              > > Fred
              > >
              >


            • fwissen
              Well, I took apart the carriage handwheel assembly and the halfnuts. The lead screw turns just fine. The binding was definately inside the carriage handwheel.
              Message 6 of 14 , Dec 1, 2010
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                Well, I took apart the carriage handwheel assembly and the halfnuts. The lead screw turns just fine. The binding was definately inside the carriage handwheel. I took the assembly off the lathe and took it all apart. The problem was with the gear attached to the carriage handwheel. The past owner must have gotten some moisture in it and it was rusted where it penetrated the assembly. I took it apart and cleaned and lubed it. It turns like a dream now!

                The lathe auto feed is working fine now! I appreciate all the assistance you guys have given me on where to look.

                Thanks!

                Fred

                --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com, chris heintz <c.heintz.357@...> wrote:
                >
                > The drive belt can be looser because it is a toothed belt rather than a
                > conventional V belt. the split nut is the split nut on the carriage that
                > engages with the leadsrew. the pillow blocks support the lead screw at
                > either end.
                >
                > The carriage handwheel (black thing) should be fairly easy to turn. Like,
                > one finger easy. You should carefully adjust your carriage slide plates that
                > hold the saddle down. Be careful not to snap them, as they are, as far as I
                > can remember, cast iron. Don't try to use power feed until you can
                > reasonably turn the leadscrew by hand with the split nuts engaged, but the
                > tumbler disengaged or you will probably break things.
                >
                > On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 10:31 AM, fwissen <fwissen@...> wrote:
                >
                > >
                > >
                > > I appreciate the info so far and I will try to answer some of the questions
                > > below and ask a few more.
                > >
                > > The leadscrew: I don't believe it is too difficult to turn based on the
                > > ability to turn it by hand from the gear end. However, the large black
                > > handle on the front of the lathe that moves the slide mechanisms is a little
                > > tight to turn. I don't have to grunt on it but I can't move it with ease.
                > > How difficult should it be to turn the black handwheel on the front of the
                > > lathe?
                > >
                > > Being new to metal lathes, I am uncertain what the half-nuts or pillow
                > > blocks are. I will check the file section for further clarification.
                > >
                > > As far as the drive belt. I do believe it is possibly misadjusted slightly.
                > > It seems looser than I would expect.
                > >
                > > I am leaning toward a misalignment just based on the indications that I am
                > > getting. There seems to be binding somewhere and binding usually means
                > > misalignment....at least that is what I think....
                > >
                > > Another question that I have, would it produce less torque if I tried to
                > > make more threads/in than the 12/in that I tried? The movement would be
                > > slower.
                > >
                > > Thanks for the info on where to look!
                > >
                > > Fred
                > >
                > > --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com <7x10minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
                > > "Roy" <roylowenthal@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > > The only way to resolve a drive problem inside the headstock (HS) is to
                > > remove it from the lathe bed & look at what's going on inside. With the HS
                > > off, you can inspect the gears & make sure the speed selector is giving full
                > > engagement on both speeds. It's also possible that the drive belt is
                > > misadjusted.
                > > >
                > > > The threading issue breaks down into several parts; first, the leadscrew
                > > shouldn't be too hard to turn, even with the half-nuts engaged. The usual
                > > cause of problems is misalignment of the pillow blocks that support the
                > > leadscrew. There's also a half-nut adjustment procedure in the "files"
                > > section that may help.
                > > >
                > > > The tumbler detent issue is repairable, if the problem persists after the
                > > leadscrew is rotating freely. Simply deepening the detent holes may fix it,
                > > if not, you can try a stiffer spring in the handle.
                > > >
                > > > Roy
                > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com <7x10minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
                > > "fwissen" <fwissen@> wrote:
                > > > >
                > > > > Well, this is my first post and I am hoping to get some help with a
                > > problem that I am experiencing. I recently purchased a used Harbor Freight
                > > 7"x10" metal lathe (#33684). I cleaned it up and lubed all the surfaces. It
                > > runs good and all the parts and slides move with no problems. When I
                > > purchased the lathe the auto feed pinions (20T & 25T) were broken. I also
                > > didn't know it at the time but all the threading gears were missing.
                > > > >
                > > > > I ordered and replaced the auto feed pinions and also ordered the
                > > threading gears. I replaced them tonight and this is where the problem
                > > arises. I put the gears on for a 12 tooth/in pattern just to test the auto
                > > feed. Well the auto feed pinions won't stay engaged. The body is worn enough
                > > that the auto feed direction selector pin pops out and the pinions disengage
                > > causing the auto feed to not move. So, I held the auto feed pinions engaged
                > > and then engaged the automatic feed lever. The torque that is created causes
                > > the auto feed pinions to still not stay engaged. It almost sounds like there
                > > is some slipping inside of the lathe housing. I could see all the pinions
                > > and gears on the left side of the lathe and they were not the ones making
                > > noise. Could there be a gear problem inside of the headstock casting that I
                > > can't see when trying to use the auto feed feature?
                > > > >
                > > > > Other than auto feed, there seems to be no problems with this lathe and
                > > I would really like to get that fixed if anyone can give me some pointers as
                > > to where to look.
                > > > > Thanks!
                > > > > Fred
                > > > >
                > > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                >
              • chris heintz
                no problem. Some owners put a plastic shield over the gears to keep swarf, moisture, etc out, and coat the gears before putting on the cover. You may consider
                Message 7 of 14 , Dec 1, 2010
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                  no problem. Some owners put a plastic shield over the gears to keep swarf, moisture, etc out, and coat the gears before putting on the cover. You may consider a similar modification.

                  On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 9:34 PM, fwissen <fwissen@...> wrote:
                   

                  Well, I took apart the carriage handwheel assembly and the halfnuts. The lead screw turns just fine. The binding was definately inside the carriage handwheel. I took the assembly off the lathe and took it all apart. The problem was with the gear attached to the carriage handwheel. The past owner must have gotten some moisture in it and it was rusted where it penetrated the assembly. I took it apart and cleaned and lubed it. It turns like a dream now!

                  The lathe auto feed is working fine now! I appreciate all the assistance you guys have given me on where to look.

                  Thanks!

                  Fred



                  --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com, chris heintz <c.heintz.357@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > The drive belt can be looser because it is a toothed belt rather than a
                  > conventional V belt. the split nut is the split nut on the carriage that
                  > engages with the leadsrew. the pillow blocks support the lead screw at
                  > either end.
                  >
                  > The carriage handwheel (black thing) should be fairly easy to turn. Like,
                  > one finger easy. You should carefully adjust your carriage slide plates that
                  > hold the saddle down. Be careful not to snap them, as they are, as far as I
                  > can remember, cast iron. Don't try to use power feed until you can
                  > reasonably turn the leadscrew by hand with the split nuts engaged, but the
                  > tumbler disengaged or you will probably break things.
                  >
                  > On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 10:31 AM, fwissen <fwissen@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > I appreciate the info so far and I will try to answer some of the questions
                  > > below and ask a few more.
                  > >
                  > > The leadscrew: I don't believe it is too difficult to turn based on the
                  > > ability to turn it by hand from the gear end. However, the large black
                  > > handle on the front of the lathe that moves the slide mechanisms is a little
                  > > tight to turn. I don't have to grunt on it but I can't move it with ease.
                  > > How difficult should it be to turn the black handwheel on the front of the
                  > > lathe?
                  > >
                  > > Being new to metal lathes, I am uncertain what the half-nuts or pillow
                  > > blocks are. I will check the file section for further clarification.
                  > >
                  > > As far as the drive belt. I do believe it is possibly misadjusted slightly.
                  > > It seems looser than I would expect.
                  > >
                  > > I am leaning toward a misalignment just based on the indications that I am
                  > > getting. There seems to be binding somewhere and binding usually means
                  > > misalignment....at least that is what I think....
                  > >
                  > > Another question that I have, would it produce less torque if I tried to
                  > > make more threads/in than the 12/in that I tried? The movement would be
                  > > slower.
                  > >
                  > > Thanks for the info on where to look!
                  > >
                  > > Fred
                  > >
                  > > --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com <7x10minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,

                  > > "Roy" <roylowenthal@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > > The only way to resolve a drive problem inside the headstock (HS) is to
                  > > remove it from the lathe bed & look at what's going on inside. With the HS
                  > > off, you can inspect the gears & make sure the speed selector is giving full
                  > > engagement on both speeds. It's also possible that the drive belt is
                  > > misadjusted.
                  > > >
                  > > > The threading issue breaks down into several parts; first, the leadscrew
                  > > shouldn't be too hard to turn, even with the half-nuts engaged. The usual
                  > > cause of problems is misalignment of the pillow blocks that support the
                  > > leadscrew. There's also a half-nut adjustment procedure in the "files"
                  > > section that may help.
                  > > >
                  > > > The tumbler detent issue is repairable, if the problem persists after the
                  > > leadscrew is rotating freely. Simply deepening the detent holes may fix it,
                  > > if not, you can try a stiffer spring in the handle.
                  > > >
                  > > > Roy
                  > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com <7x10minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,

                  > > "fwissen" <fwissen@> wrote:
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Well, this is my first post and I am hoping to get some help with a
                  > > problem that I am experiencing. I recently purchased a used Harbor Freight
                  > > 7"x10" metal lathe (#33684). I cleaned it up and lubed all the surfaces. It
                  > > runs good and all the parts and slides move with no problems. When I
                  > > purchased the lathe the auto feed pinions (20T & 25T) were broken. I also
                  > > didn't know it at the time but all the threading gears were missing.
                  > > > >
                  > > > > I ordered and replaced the auto feed pinions and also ordered the
                  > > threading gears. I replaced them tonight and this is where the problem
                  > > arises. I put the gears on for a 12 tooth/in pattern just to test the auto
                  > > feed. Well the auto feed pinions won't stay engaged. The body is worn enough
                  > > that the auto feed direction selector pin pops out and the pinions disengage
                  > > causing the auto feed to not move. So, I held the auto feed pinions engaged
                  > > and then engaged the automatic feed lever. The torque that is created causes
                  > > the auto feed pinions to still not stay engaged. It almost sounds like there
                  > > is some slipping inside of the lathe housing. I could see all the pinions
                  > > and gears on the left side of the lathe and they were not the ones making
                  > > noise. Could there be a gear problem inside of the headstock casting that I
                  > > can't see when trying to use the auto feed feature?
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Other than auto feed, there seems to be no problems with this lathe and
                  > > I would really like to get that fixed if anyone can give me some pointers as
                  > > to where to look.
                  > > > > Thanks!
                  > > > > Fred
                  > > > >
                  > > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  >


                • Roy
                  Kewl! That s the first time anybody s had that particular problem! Roy
                  Message 8 of 14 , Dec 1, 2010
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                    Kewl! That's the first time anybody's had that particular problem!

                    Roy

                    --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com, "fwissen" <fwissen@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > Well, I took apart the carriage handwheel assembly and the halfnuts. The lead screw turns just fine. The binding was definately inside the carriage handwheel. I took the assembly off the lathe and took it all apart. The problem was with the gear attached to the carriage handwheel. The past owner must have gotten some moisture in it and it was rusted where it penetrated the assembly. I took it apart and cleaned and lubed it. It turns like a dream now!
                    >
                    > The lathe auto feed is working fine now! I appreciate all the assistance you guys have given me on where to look.
                    >
                    > Thanks!
                    >
                    > Fred
                    >
                    > --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com, chris heintz <c.heintz.357@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > > The drive belt can be looser because it is a toothed belt rather than a
                    > > conventional V belt. the split nut is the split nut on the carriage that
                    > > engages with the leadsrew. the pillow blocks support the lead screw at
                    > > either end.
                    > >
                    > > The carriage handwheel (black thing) should be fairly easy to turn. Like,
                    > > one finger easy. You should carefully adjust your carriage slide plates that
                    > > hold the saddle down. Be careful not to snap them, as they are, as far as I
                    > > can remember, cast iron. Don't try to use power feed until you can
                    > > reasonably turn the leadscrew by hand with the split nuts engaged, but the
                    > > tumbler disengaged or you will probably break things.
                    > >
                    > > On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 10:31 AM, fwissen <fwissen@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > I appreciate the info so far and I will try to answer some of the questions
                    > > > below and ask a few more.
                    > > >
                    > > > The leadscrew: I don't believe it is too difficult to turn based on the
                    > > > ability to turn it by hand from the gear end. However, the large black
                    > > > handle on the front of the lathe that moves the slide mechanisms is a little
                    > > > tight to turn. I don't have to grunt on it but I can't move it with ease.
                    > > > How difficult should it be to turn the black handwheel on the front of the
                    > > > lathe?
                    > > >
                    > > > Being new to metal lathes, I am uncertain what the half-nuts or pillow
                    > > > blocks are. I will check the file section for further clarification.
                    > > >
                    > > > As far as the drive belt. I do believe it is possibly misadjusted slightly.
                    > > > It seems looser than I would expect.
                    > > >
                    > > > I am leaning toward a misalignment just based on the indications that I am
                    > > > getting. There seems to be binding somewhere and binding usually means
                    > > > misalignment....at least that is what I think....
                    > > >
                    > > > Another question that I have, would it produce less torque if I tried to
                    > > > make more threads/in than the 12/in that I tried? The movement would be
                    > > > slower.
                    > > >
                    > > > Thanks for the info on where to look!
                    > > >
                    > > > Fred
                    > > >
                    > > > --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com <7x10minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
                    > > > "Roy" <roylowenthal@> wrote:
                    > > > >
                    > > > > The only way to resolve a drive problem inside the headstock (HS) is to
                    > > > remove it from the lathe bed & look at what's going on inside. With the HS
                    > > > off, you can inspect the gears & make sure the speed selector is giving full
                    > > > engagement on both speeds. It's also possible that the drive belt is
                    > > > misadjusted.
                    > > > >
                    > > > > The threading issue breaks down into several parts; first, the leadscrew
                    > > > shouldn't be too hard to turn, even with the half-nuts engaged. The usual
                    > > > cause of problems is misalignment of the pillow blocks that support the
                    > > > leadscrew. There's also a half-nut adjustment procedure in the "files"
                    > > > section that may help.
                    > > > >
                    > > > > The tumbler detent issue is repairable, if the problem persists after the
                    > > > leadscrew is rotating freely. Simply deepening the detent holes may fix it,
                    > > > if not, you can try a stiffer spring in the handle.
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Roy
                    > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > > --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com <7x10minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
                    > > > "fwissen" <fwissen@> wrote:
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > Well, this is my first post and I am hoping to get some help with a
                    > > > problem that I am experiencing. I recently purchased a used Harbor Freight
                    > > > 7"x10" metal lathe (#33684). I cleaned it up and lubed all the surfaces. It
                    > > > runs good and all the parts and slides move with no problems. When I
                    > > > purchased the lathe the auto feed pinions (20T & 25T) were broken. I also
                    > > > didn't know it at the time but all the threading gears were missing.
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > I ordered and replaced the auto feed pinions and also ordered the
                    > > > threading gears. I replaced them tonight and this is where the problem
                    > > > arises. I put the gears on for a 12 tooth/in pattern just to test the auto
                    > > > feed. Well the auto feed pinions won't stay engaged. The body is worn enough
                    > > > that the auto feed direction selector pin pops out and the pinions disengage
                    > > > causing the auto feed to not move. So, I held the auto feed pinions engaged
                    > > > and then engaged the automatic feed lever. The torque that is created causes
                    > > > the auto feed pinions to still not stay engaged. It almost sounds like there
                    > > > is some slipping inside of the lathe housing. I could see all the pinions
                    > > > and gears on the left side of the lathe and they were not the ones making
                    > > > noise. Could there be a gear problem inside of the headstock casting that I
                    > > > can't see when trying to use the auto feed feature?
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > Other than auto feed, there seems to be no problems with this lathe and
                    > > > I would really like to get that fixed if anyone can give me some pointers as
                    > > > to where to look.
                    > > > > > Thanks!
                    > > > > > Fred
                    > > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > >
                    >
                  • darrylfrench1957
                    Well I just bought a new Harbor Freight 7 x 10 and it had a lot of drag. I saw on the net where one guy emeryed the carriage to the bed so I thought I would
                    Message 9 of 14 , Dec 3, 2010
                    • 0 Attachment
                      Well I just bought a new Harbor Freight 7 x 10 and it had a lot of drag. I saw on the net where one guy emeryed the carriage to the bed so I thought I would try it. I took the carriage off and sanded a bit and set the clamp bars (what ever they are called). I couldn't detect any play or it was very minute. I put the front plate back on the carriage and it still moved fairly easy. I put the lead screw end bearing on and it got pretty tight. I removed the bearing and it got easy. So I checked and sure enough the shaft and bearing was out of alignment. I sanded and sanded the mounting base of the bearing (being careful not to put a twist to the shaft and bearing). Finally got to where the bearing would slip right on. No more drag from the lead screw upper half of the split nut assembly. I sure would like to go back and put that plastic cover on the front plate gear assembly. May do it in the near future.
                      Hope this will give you some help.
                      As for gears I think The "Little machine shop" has full metal gear sets. Not to bad of price either. Lots of goodys at their web site and they will send you a catalog also.
                      Darryl French

                      --- In 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com, "fwissen" <fwissen@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > Well, this is my first post and I am hoping to get some help with a problem that I am experiencing. I recently purchased a used Harbor Freight 7"x10" metal lathe (#33684). I cleaned it up and lubed all the surfaces. It runs good and all the parts and slides move with no problems. When I purchased the lathe the auto feed pinions (20T & 25T) were broken. I also didn't know it at the time but all the threading gears were missing.
                      >
                      > I ordered and replaced the auto feed pinions and also ordered the threading gears. I replaced them tonight and this is where the problem arises. I put the gears on for a 12 tooth/in pattern just to test the auto feed. Well the auto feed pinions won't stay engaged. The body is worn enough that the auto feed direction selector pin pops out and the pinions disengage causing the auto feed to not move. So, I held the auto feed pinions engaged and then engaged the automatic feed lever. The torque that is created causes the auto feed pinions to still not stay engaged. It almost sounds like there is some slipping inside of the lathe housing. I could see all the pinions and gears on the left side of the lathe and they were not the ones making noise. Could there be a gear problem inside of the headstock casting that I can't see when trying to use the auto feed feature?
                      >
                      > Other than auto feed, there seems to be no problems with this lathe and I would really like to get that fixed if anyone can give me some pointers as to where to look.
                      > Thanks!
                      > Fred
                      >
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