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RE: [7mmnga] Digest Number 678

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  • Ian McIntyre
    __________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 20:11:01 -0000 From: adriangrayfr Subject: Re:
    Message 1 of 1 , Feb 10, 2004
      __________________________________________

      Message: 2
      Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2004 20:11:01 -0000
      From: "adriangrayfr" <adrian@...>
      Subject: Re: Garratt mechanism

      --- In 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com, "Ian McIntyre" <ismac@o...> wrote:
      > Replacing that beautiful Faulhauber motor, gear head and bevel drive
      > with a Mashima and Romford gears - what a waste - why on earth would
      > you want to do it?
      >
      > Adrian
      >
      > Because the bevel gears simply would not remain in mesh. No amount
      of
      > persuasion would keep them in mesh. With a mechanism trapped in the
      chassis
      > as this one is, I could not afford to have to rebuild it to repair
      or
      > replace the gears. I have replaced them at the outset with a metal
      worm and
      > gear, which should last quite a long time.
      > ian McIntyre
      >
      Ah ha - I understand and sympathise.
      Mr McP suggests using the 1mm wire supplied to locate the motor
      mounting plate.
      After I shared my disappointing experience and the suggestion that it
      should be 1.5mm wire to get a snug fit he acknowledged that the holes
      have slightly over-etched and I had the solution.
      I believe he has amended things for later batches.

      Adrian



      The problem as i see it is more to do the bevel gears, crossbox and the
      fitting thereof. When assembled, the crossbox was able to remove itself from
      the end of the motor shaft. This coupled to the fact that we are talking
      about trapped plastic parts, just did not seem reasonable.
      I have ended up with a robust mechanism that should see out the model. It is
      a little difficult to reach the motor mount screws but not impossible. I
      also intend wiring the motors in series, with the pickups parrallelled. This
      should result in a smooth even running locomotive. It means running 2 wires
      the length of the model but they are easy to conceal.
      I am still concerned about the fitting of the counterweights and their
      quartering. I think I may have to fit the bushes to the axles, test fit and
      mark the weight and bush before removing and fixing the bush. Tests with
      super glue are proving to be a complete failure. What type of plastic are
      the bushes made from? A set of brass bushes would be better. It would be
      more tedious to get the quartering right, but it would then be easier to
      maintain.

      By the way, has anyone else noted the incorrectly spelt Dulce name plate in
      the Burrinjuck Krauss Kit? I must admit, that I had not until pointed out to
      me by another modeller here in OZ

      Ian
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