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Re: any advice/help for a beginner to airbrushing using acrylics

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  • sean
    ... Hello Leonard Thanks very much for your extremely detailed reply to my question above re airbrushing,your answer certainly helped me understand the
    Message 1 of 15 , Sep 13, 2010
      --- In 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com, "Track Dog" <lleeblues@...> wrote:
      >
      >
      >
      > --- In 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com, "sean" <seanbyrne@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Hello folks
      > > I would appreciate any advice on using an airbrush to spray my models preferably using acrylic paint, also on cleaning the airbrush and the best thinners to use to thin the paint, I know that acrylics are water soluable and wondered if water alone is adequate to thin the paint and clean the airbrush? and any advice on airbrushing techniques ie priming, finishing, weathering, air pressure or P.S.I. to use etc.
      > > I have bought a couple of books on airbrushing which I didnt find gave the type of advice a beginner like me is looking for, any pointers in this direction would be welcome as would sources of useful articles as well.
      > > Thanks all the best,John.
      > >
      > Hi John, Yes I have. Start by going to www.pascheairbrush.com two books that are a must have 1. Twenty-Two Air Brush Lessons for Beginners. Read, pratice, pratice. 2. Getting Started in Airbrushing. A ball park pressure envlope would be between 18 and 25 PSI for most acrylic work. Water alone will not clean an air brush sufficently. The best products I have come across for cleaning your air brush are; Airbrush Cleaner by EZ Air and Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner & Restorer. This one product is expensive but worth it! Learning to back pressure and tearing down and assembling your brush proper will ensure that it is clean and a spotless cleaning will give a better paint job. Mix the paint thoroughly! Strain the paint I like cone filters fine mesch get them at a paint store or use your girlfriend or wifes pantyhose. As a rule use the thinner that is recomended by the paint company who's paint you are useing. That's the safest way for they have put alot of time and work into creating chemicals that work well with each other. So untell you learn what properties are in what and what works well with other finishes that would be the best way to go. With some thinners, and primers they can attack the model or finish coat long after it's painted somtimes causeing microscopic fissures in the plastic or pitting in the brass then all you can do is just throw it away. A safe formula and starting point would be 70%-20%-10% 70% pigment, 20% thinner, and 10% glaze or retarder. As to cleaning I like to use tooth picks,Q-Tips, pipe cleaners, and Poxybrushes (You get them from you Denist to clean your teeth or at a Drugstore) Use beeswax on the threads and seals (Spairingly). I up-loaded some photos on Air Brush Cleaning on the O scale Modelers web site if you want to have a look see, they may help they may not.
      >
      > When you spray start (trigger) before the model moveing in a steady (Do Not Stop) flow across the model and stop (trigger) just after the model. Overlap your spray by one third of the fan pattern for starters untell you get the hang for it. Spray in thin even coats about three to six inches away from the surface. As a pratice I would start by spraying your dots. Get them down to where they are almost uniform and round with no runs or build up. Then partice your Morse Code ...-...- get good at that then do connecting the dots .-.-.-.-.-. Weathering is an advanced pratice but I would offer you to consider this: Be spairing and look carefully at how things are weathered. That's alot to get into just take it a little at a time. Hope this helps.
      >
      > Best Regards,
      > Leonard "Lee" Davis
      >
      Hello Leonard
      Thanks very much for your extremely detailed reply to my question above re airbrushing,your answer certainly helped me understand the principles of using an airbrush very well indeed. Just a few points you may help clarify for me Leonard, I have tried the website www.pascheairbrush.com a few times trying to find the two books you reccomended but although I was on the correct website (I think!!), I went to the books section amongst other sections but for some reason I could not find the books, or any books relating to airbrushing despite searching the site, perhaps I am doing something wrong, any further advice or help in finding those two books would be appreciated Leonard, although I live in the U.K. as far as I am aware this should have no affect when searching the web. Also can you tell me what is meant by "learning to back pressure" in relation to stripping down and cleaning the airbrush? also where you go on to describe a "starting point" for thinning or diluting the paint you mention 70% pigment, 20% thinners and 10% glaze or retarder, because of my limited knowledge of airbrushing terminology I am unsure of what is meant by "glaze or retarder", I think pigment refers to the paint I would appreciate if you could clear up these points for me Leonard, these books you mention would surely help me understand the terminology better if you could point out where I am going wrong in trying to find them on the website.
      Finally Leonard you also mention you up-loaded some photos on Air Brush Cleaning on the scale Modellers web site I would like to see these photos but I cannot find the website, could you point me in the right direction please Leonard if possible.
      Sorry about asking more questions but if you can help out I would certainly appreciate it.

      Thanks again Leonard,all the best John.
    • Track Dog
      ... learning to back pressure in relation to stripping down and cleaning the airbrush? also where you go on to describe a starting point for thinning or
      Message 2 of 15 , Sep 13, 2010
        --- Leonard, I have tried the website www.pascheairbrush.com a few times trying to find the two books you reccomended but although I was on the correct website (I think!!),

        "learning to back pressure" in relation to stripping down and cleaning the airbrush? also where you go on to describe a "starting point" for thinning or diluting the paint you mention 70% pigment, 20% thinners and 10% glaze or retarder, because of my limited knowledge of airbrushing terminology I am unsure of what is meant by "glaze or retarder",

        I think pigment refers to the paint

        > Finally Leonard you also mention you up-loaded some photos on Air Brush Cleaning >
        >

        John, Your welcome glad to help out. First off the Passche site. My bad I did not add the seconed s in Passche. So go to www.passcheairbrush.com then to books and videos scroll part way down to TTALB 22 Airbrush Lessons for Beginners. Below that is GSIA Getting Started with a Airbrush.
        In some mix formulas like Floquil they use a three part mix of paint thinner and glaze (Which gives the finish a glossy look). Some formulas call for a retarder which slows the drying time of the paint down. There are also accelerators which speed the drying time of the paint. This is where we are getting into advanced painting like three part epoxys and carbon finishes not really needed for hobby painting just to let you know you can slow or speed the drying time of paint.

        Pigment is part of the paint along with the vehicle. Pigment is made up of the color, binders like kelp, latex and so forth. It's the part that you see in a dried up can or bottle of paint. The vehicle is the thinner, and products to cause the paint to level and float properly when you apply it and retarders so it doesn't dry too fast or cure compleatly.
        With some paints you don't need to do much of anything except shoot it like Scale Coat stright out of the bottle. Maybe a little cut depending on the barametric pressure and temp. your working at.

        (Voice over of Gram Clease Monty Python)
        Back pressuring the gun. Take a rag in your left hand (If your right handed) and the fully assembled airbrush in your rigt hand. Hold rag aproxmatly two to three inches from the nozzle of the gun. Shoot some thinner/cleaner through the gun. A couple of short bursts (Spit, Spit). Now place the rag over the nozzle and shoot a couple of short burst into the rag (Be carefull tilt the brush and cup up and away from you, have the surface covered by about a foot or so) The thinner/cleaner will back spray through the color cup syphon tube and out of the cup if clean. (And on you if you haven't tilted it) If almost clean it will bubble, if dirty nothing denada; And that's back pressuring the gun or airbrush.

        Http://groupsyahoo.com/groups/OSCALEMODELERS.com go to photos section look for Air Brush Cleaning by:LLeeblues. There you will find some pictures I up-loaded for a friend, they may help they may not.

        John please feel free to ask me anything about painting. I do not know it all but I know some and what I don't I will find out.

        Might I suggest "Get thee to thy computer and look up how paint is made. That's one of the difference between Scale coat and Sherwin Williams is how fine the pigment is ground. That's why you can see the detials with Scale Coat or Floquil.

        Best Regards,
        Leonard "Lee" Davis
      • Michael
        I am still a raw beginner but I have learned a few things: 1. Do not use Tamiya thinners with Vallejo paints. The latter do not like alcohol at all. 2. Keep a
        Message 3 of 15 , Sep 14, 2010
          I am still a raw beginner but I have learned a few things:

          1. Do not use Tamiya thinners with Vallejo paints. The latter do not like alcohol at all.

          2. Keep a bucket of water and a roll of kitchen roll handy. I found the bucket of water very handy for flushing the airbrush, the hard part is finding a clean bucket, actually sometimes any bucket. No matter how many I buy they just seem to vanish. Of course if you are not using water based paints ignore this – except the bit about the kitchen roll.

          3. Use the right primer for the substrate. I still use aerosol cans for this.

          4. Compressors are great – but they can be very, very noisy.

          5. The little soft plastic pipettes are wonderfully useful and a big box of them is only £20 or so on Ebay.

          6. They aren't joking about ventilation.

          7. Spend the extra on good masking tape, Tamiya seems to be the easiest to find.

          8. Lock the cat up when airbrushing.

          9. A wet windy day is not a good time to airbrush.

          I had been using Tamiya acrylics but now I am moving to Vallejo as they are more pleasant to use and seem to clean up more easily when (not if) I put them somewhere I should not.

          I bought a cheap lazy Susan turntable ring from Squires and fitted it to some MDF offcuts, including a hexagonal top which I had by chance (I was given a stack of 12 inch or so AF 6mm MDF hexagons by a friend) which makes a cheap and handy turntable which is really useful. The airbrush shop has small, neat, cheap ones but their postage rates are a killer.

          I had been using a fairly basic single action Aztec airbrush which worked well until it got into the habit of dismantling itself and I became fed up with chasing the detached air line across the floor and so bought an Iwata TR which is admittedly a serious case of overkill.

          I have not tried airbrushing anything except Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics.

          While Vallejo do a special airbrush paint their regular acrylics seem to airbrush very well if thinned down a little. I have tried water and their own thinner and the latter does seem to work a little better.

          The Tamiya acrylics smell more strongly as they have an alcohol base but they dry very quickly. When dry they might be more fragile than the Vallejo paints but I am not at all sure about this.

          One advantage of the metal bodied Iwata airbrush is that the body and seals are solvent resistant so I can use cellulose thinners to clean up in an emergency. I have not needed to yet but the option was one reason for picking one.

          You can buy tins of airbush cleaner, I am not very sure what it is but it is strong, unpleasant and doubtless dangerous stuff.


          Michael
        • Peter Hingley
          Hard luck Vallejo !! :-0 PDH From: 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com [mailto:7mmnga@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael Sent: 14 September 2010 09:43 To:
          Message 4 of 15 , Sep 14, 2010
            Hard luck Vallejo !! :-0



            PDH



            From: 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com [mailto:7mmnga@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Michael
            Sent: 14 September 2010 09:43
            To: 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: [7mm NGA] Re: any advice/help for a beginner to airbrushing using acrylics [Scanned]






            I am still a raw beginner but I have learned a few things:

            1. Do not use Tamiya thinners with Vallejo paints. The latter do not like alcohol at all.

            2. Keep a bucket of water and a roll of kitchen roll handy. I found the bucket of water very handy for flushing the airbrush, the hard part is finding a clean bucket, actually sometimes any bucket. No matter how many I buy they just seem to vanish. Of course if you are not using water based paints ignore this - except the bit about the kitchen roll.

            3. Use the right primer for the substrate. I still use aerosol cans for this.

            4. Compressors are great - but they can be very, very noisy.

            5. The little soft plastic pipettes are wonderfully useful and a big box of them is only £20 or so on Ebay.

            6. They aren't joking about ventilation.

            7. Spend the extra on good masking tape, Tamiya seems to be the easiest to find.

            8. Lock the cat up when airbrushing.

            9. A wet windy day is not a good time to airbrush.

            I had been using Tamiya acrylics but now I am moving to Vallejo as they are more pleasant to use and seem to clean up more easily when (not if) I put them somewhere I should not.

            I bought a cheap lazy Susan turntable ring from Squires and fitted it to some MDF offcuts, including a hexagonal top which I had by chance (I was given a stack of 12 inch or so AF 6mm MDF hexagons by a friend) which makes a cheap and handy turntable which is really useful. The airbrush shop has small, neat, cheap ones but their postage rates are a killer.

            I had been using a fairly basic single action Aztec airbrush which worked well until it got into the habit of dismantling itself and I became fed up with chasing the detached air line across the floor and so bought an Iwata TR which is admittedly a serious case of overkill.

            I have not tried airbrushing anything except Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics.

            While Vallejo do a special airbrush paint their regular acrylics seem to airbrush very well if thinned down a little. I have tried water and their own thinner and the latter does seem to work a little better.

            The Tamiya acrylics smell more strongly as they have an alcohol base but they dry very quickly. When dry they might be more fragile than the Vallejo paints but I am not at all sure about this.

            One advantage of the metal bodied Iwata airbrush is that the body and seals are solvent resistant so I can use cellulose thinners to clean up in an emergency. I have not needed to yet but the option was one reason for picking one.

            You can buy tins of airbush cleaner, I am not very sure what it is but it is strong, unpleasant and doubtless dangerous stuff.

            Michael





            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Brian Lewis
            Now signwriters and the like have a secret product that nobody else seems to know about. It is called Owatrol Paint Conditioner . It is an extender - one
            Message 5 of 15 , Sep 14, 2010
              Now signwriters and the like have a 'secret' product that nobody
              else seems to know about. It is called 'Owatrol Paint Conditioner'.

              It is an extender - one tiny drop improves the finish, aids flow
              and preserves a wet edge. Brilliant!

              But.... they also supply an equivalent for water based paints,
              and they do suggest it aids flow of acrylic paints in air guns.
              I have not used this, but have just ordered a litre can. If it
              is as good as Owatrol, then I will use it every time get out the
              acrylic paint.



              Regards



              Brian Lewis
            • sean
              ... Thanks again for all your advice and help to my never ending questions, I have tried quite a number of times to access the website www.passcheairbrush.com
              Message 6 of 15 , Sep 19, 2010
                --- In 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com, "Track Dog" <lleeblues@...> wrote:
                >
                >
                >
                > --- Leonard, I have tried the website www.pascheairbrush.com a few times trying to find the two books you reccomended but although I was on the correct website (I think!!),
                >
                > "learning to back pressure" in relation to stripping down and cleaning the airbrush? also where you go on to describe a "starting point" for thinning or diluting the paint you mention 70% pigment, 20% thinners and 10% glaze or retarder, because of my limited knowledge of airbrushing terminology I am unsure of what is meant by "glaze or retarder",
                >
                > I think pigment refers to the paint
                >
                > > Finally Leonard you also mention you up-loaded some photos on Air Brush Cleaning >
                > >
                >
                > John, Your welcome glad to help out. First off the Passche site. My bad I did not add the seconed s in Passche. So go to www.passcheairbrush.com then to books and videos scroll part way down to TTALB 22 Airbrush Lessons for Beginners. Below that is GSIA Getting Started with a Airbrush.
                > In some mix formulas like Floquil they use a three part mix of paint thinner and glaze (Which gives the finish a glossy look). Some formulas call for a retarder which slows the drying time of the paint down. There are also accelerators which speed the drying time of the paint. This is where we are getting into advanced painting like three part epoxys and carbon finishes not really needed for hobby painting just to let you know you can slow or speed the drying time of paint.
                >
                > Pigment is part of the paint along with the vehicle. Pigment is made up of the color, binders like kelp, latex and so forth. It's the part that you see in a dried up can or bottle of paint. The vehicle is the thinner, and products to cause the paint to level and float properly when you apply it and retarders so it doesn't dry too fast or cure compleatly.
                > With some paints you don't need to do much of anything except shoot it like Scale Coat stright out of the bottle. Maybe a little cut depending on the barametric pressure and temp. your working at.
                >
                > (Voice over of Gram Clease Monty Python)
                > Back pressuring the gun. Take a rag in your left hand (If your right handed) and the fully assembled airbrush in your rigt hand. Hold rag aproxmatly two to three inches from the nozzle of the gun. Shoot some thinner/cleaner through the gun. A couple of short bursts (Spit, Spit). Now place the rag over the nozzle and shoot a couple of short burst into the rag (Be carefull tilt the brush and cup up and away from you, have the surface covered by about a foot or so) The thinner/cleaner will back spray through the color cup syphon tube and out of the cup if clean. (And on you if you haven't tilted it) If almost clean it will bubble, if dirty nothing denada; And that's back pressuring the gun or airbrush.
                >
                > Http://groupsyahoo.com/groups/OSCALEMODELERS.com go to photos section look for Air Brush Cleaning by:LLeeblues. There you will find some pictures I up-loaded for a friend, they may help they may not.
                >
                > John please feel free to ask me anything about painting. I do not know it all but I know some and what I don't I will find out.
                >
                > Might I suggest "Get thee to thy computer and look up how paint is made. That's one of the difference between Scale coat and Sherwin Williams is how fine the pigment is ground. That's why you can see the detials with Scale Coat or Floquil.
                >
                > Best Regards,
                > Leonard "Lee" Davis
                >Hello again Leonard
                Thanks again for all your advice and help to my never ending questions, I have tried quite a number of times to access the website www.passcheairbrush.com to buy the books you mention and for some reason I still cannot access the specific site you mention Leonard, it keeps referring me to a website with a similar but not exactly the same name/spelling as the one you reccomend. I have also tried Amazon for the books again with no success, and also a very well known bookseller chain of shops here in the UK. with no success.
                If possible Leonard can you supply me with information re the publisher, authors, ISBN No, which may help me track them down via Amazon or if you know of a different supplier on the web who may supply the books.
                Sorry to ask you more questions Leonard hope you dont mind me taking up your time again.
                Thanks all the best,John.
              • Frank Metcalf
                Hi Sean, Try http://www.paascheairbrush.com/ for the information you require. Best wishes Frank Metcalf [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                Message 7 of 15 , Sep 20, 2010
                  Hi Sean,



                  Try http://www.paascheairbrush.com/ for the information you require.



                  Best wishes



                  Frank Metcalf






                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • Chris
                  John:- I am inclined to think that the alternative site you mention is probably the correct one. Certainly the spelling of Paasche rather than Passche
                  Message 8 of 15 , Sep 20, 2010
                    John:-

                    I am inclined to think that the alternative site you mention is probably the correct one. Certainly the spelling of "Paasche" rather than "Passche" seems more logical.

                    More to the point, on that site, at http://www.paascheairbrush.com/books_videos.html you can see the very book that Leonard mentions.

                    Perhaps Leonard could confirm this?

                    All the best

                    Chris

                    ----- Original Message -----
                    From: sean
                    To: 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 1:01 AM
                    Subject: [7mm NGA] Re: any advice/help for a beginner to airbrushing using acrylics





                    --- In 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com, "Track Dog" <lleeblues@...> wrote:
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > --- Leonard, I have tried the website www.pascheairbrush.com a few times trying to find the two books you reccomended but although I was on the correct website (I think!!),
                    >
                    > "learning to back pressure" in relation to stripping down and cleaning the airbrush? also where you go on to describe a "starting point" for thinning or diluting the paint you mention 70% pigment, 20% thinners and 10% glaze or retarder, because of my limited knowledge of airbrushing terminology I am unsure of what is meant by "glaze or retarder",
                    >
                    > I think pigment refers to the paint
                    >
                    > > Finally Leonard you also mention you up-loaded some photos on Air Brush Cleaning >
                    > >
                    >
                    > John, Your welcome glad to help out. First off the Passche site. My bad I did not add the seconed s in Passche. So go to www.passcheairbrush.com then to books and videos scroll part way down to TTALB 22 Airbrush Lessons for Beginners. Below that is GSIA Getting Started with a Airbrush.
                    > In some mix formulas like Floquil they use a three part mix of paint thinner and glaze (Which gives the finish a glossy look). Some formulas call for a retarder which slows the drying time of the paint down. There are also accelerators which speed the drying time of the paint. This is where we are getting into advanced painting like three part epoxys and carbon finishes not really needed for hobby painting just to let you know you can slow or speed the drying time of paint.
                    >
                    > Pigment is part of the paint along with the vehicle. Pigment is made up of the color, binders like kelp, latex and so forth. It's the part that you see in a dried up can or bottle of paint. The vehicle is the thinner, and products to cause the paint to level and float properly when you apply it and retarders so it doesn't dry too fast or cure compleatly.
                    > With some paints you don't need to do much of anything except shoot it like Scale Coat stright out of the bottle. Maybe a little cut depending on the barametric pressure and temp. your working at.
                    >
                    > (Voice over of Gram Clease Monty Python)
                    > Back pressuring the gun. Take a rag in your left hand (If your right handed) and the fully assembled airbrush in your rigt hand. Hold rag aproxmatly two to three inches from the nozzle of the gun. Shoot some thinner/cleaner through the gun. A couple of short bursts (Spit, Spit). Now place the rag over the nozzle and shoot a couple of short burst into the rag (Be carefull tilt the brush and cup up and away from you, have the surface covered by about a foot or so) The thinner/cleaner will back spray through the color cup syphon tube and out of the cup if clean. (And on you if you haven't tilted it) If almost clean it will bubble, if dirty nothing denada; And that's back pressuring the gun or airbrush.
                    >
                    > Http://groupsyahoo.com/groups/OSCALEMODELERS.com go to photos section look for Air Brush Cleaning by:LLeeblues. There you will find some pictures I up-loaded for a friend, they may help they may not.
                    >
                    > John please feel free to ask me anything about painting. I do not know it all but I know some and what I don't I will find out.
                    >
                    > Might I suggest "Get thee to thy computer and look up how paint is made. That's one of the difference between Scale coat and Sherwin Williams is how fine the pigment is ground. That's why you can see the detials with Scale Coat or Floquil.
                    >
                    > Best Regards,
                    > Leonard "Lee" Davis
                    >Hello again Leonard
                    Thanks again for all your advice and help to my never ending questions, I have tried quite a number of times to access the website www.passcheairbrush.com to buy the books you mention and for some reason I still cannot access the specific site you mention Leonard, it keeps referring me to a website with a similar but not exactly the same name/spelling as the one you reccomend. I have also tried Amazon for the books again with no success, and also a very well known bookseller chain of shops here in the UK. with no success.
                    If possible Leonard can you supply me with information re the publisher, authors, ISBN No, which may help me track them down via Amazon or if you know of a different supplier on the web who may supply the books.
                    Sorry to ask you more questions Leonard hope you dont mind me taking up your time again.
                    Thanks all the best,John.





                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • martincoombsuk
                    You could go to YouTube and type in airbrush and you will find thousands of videos explaining about airbrushing. Martin
                    Message 9 of 15 , Sep 20, 2010
                      You could go to YouTube and type in 'airbrush' and you will find thousands of videos explaining about airbrushing.

                      Martin
                    • adriangrayfr
                      That, and the advice to practice, practice, practice, mess it up and practice some more, is probably the most helpful message written in this thread!! Nothing
                      Message 10 of 15 , Sep 20, 2010
                        That, and the advice to practice, practice, practice, mess it up and practice some more, is probably the most helpful message written in this thread!!
                        Nothing beats a demonstration and YouTube should give plenty of those.

                        Adrian - TLO

                        --- In 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com, "martincoombsuk" <martin.coombs@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > You could go to YouTube and type in 'airbrush' and you will find thousands of videos explaining about airbrushing.
                        >
                        > Martin
                        >
                      • Kevin Staddon
                        Someone ( professional model maker) once recommended to me to spray consistency of milk. Perhaps trying some? Kevin Staddon www.exemrs.co.uk [Non-text portions
                        Message 11 of 15 , Sep 20, 2010
                          Someone ( professional model maker) once recommended to me to spray consistency of milk. Perhaps trying some?
                          Kevin Staddon
                          www.exemrs.co.uk

                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        • Leonard Davis
                          John, Criss, Yes that is the right site and the two  books I recomended. Regards,               Leonard Lee Davis
                          Message 12 of 15 , Sep 20, 2010
                            John, Criss, Yes that is the right site and the two  books I recomended.

                            Regards,
                                          Leonard Lee Davis




                            ________________________________
                            From: Chris <chris@...>
                            To: 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com
                            Sent: Mon, September 20, 2010 3:10:29 AM
                            Subject: Re: [7mm NGA] Re: any advice/help for a beginner to airbrushing using
                            acrylics

                             
                            John:-

                            I am inclined to think that the alternative site you mention is probably the
                            correct one. Certainly the spelling of "Paasche" rather than "Passche" seems
                            more logical.

                            More to the point, on that site, at
                            http://www.paascheairbrush.com/books_videos.html you can see the very book that
                            Leonard mentions.

                            Perhaps Leonard could confirm this?

                            All the best

                            Chris

                            ----- Original Message -----
                            From: sean
                            To: 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com
                            Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 1:01 AM
                            Subject: [7mm NGA] Re: any advice/help for a beginner to airbrushing using
                            acrylics

                            --- In 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com, "Track Dog" <lleeblues@...> wrote:
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > --- Leonard, I have tried the website www.pascheairbrush.com a few times trying
                            >to find the two books you reccomended but although I was on the correct website
                            >(I think!!),
                            >
                            >
                            > "learning to back pressure" in relation to stripping down and cleaning the
                            >airbrush? also where you go on to describe a "starting point" for thinning or
                            >diluting the paint you mention 70% pigment, 20% thinners and 10% glaze or
                            >retarder, because of my limited knowledge of airbrushing terminology I am unsure
                            >of what is meant by "glaze or retarder",
                            >
                            > I think pigment refers to the paint
                            >
                            > > Finally Leonard you also mention you up-loaded some photos on Air Brush
                            >Cleaning >
                            >
                            > >
                            >
                            > John, Your welcome glad to help out. First off the Passche site. My bad I did
                            >not add the seconed s in Passche. So go to www.passcheairbrush.com then to books
                            >and videos scroll part way down to TTALB 22 Airbrush Lessons for Beginners.
                            >Below that is GSIA Getting Started with a Airbrush.
                            > In some mix formulas like Floquil they use a three part mix of paint thinner
                            >and glaze (Which gives the finish a glossy look). Some formulas call for a
                            >retarder which slows the drying time of the paint down. There are also
                            >accelerators which speed the drying time of the paint. This is where we are
                            >getting into advanced painting like three part epoxys and carbon finishes not
                            >really needed for hobby painting just to let you know you can slow or speed the
                            >drying time of paint.
                            >
                            > Pigment is part of the paint along with the vehicle. Pigment is made up of the
                            >color, binders like kelp, latex and so forth. It's the part that you see in a
                            >dried up can or bottle of paint. The vehicle is the thinner, and products to
                            >cause the paint to level and float properly when you apply it and retarders so
                            >it doesn't dry too fast or cure compleatly.
                            > With some paints you don't need to do much of anything except shoot it like
                            >Scale Coat stright out of the bottle. Maybe a little cut depending on the
                            >barametric pressure and temp. your working at.
                            >
                            > (Voice over of Gram Clease Monty Python)
                            > Back pressuring the gun. Take a rag in your left hand (If your right handed)
                            >and the fully assembled airbrush in your rigt hand. Hold rag aproxmatly two to
                            >three inches from the nozzle of the gun. Shoot some thinner/cleaner through the
                            >gun. A couple of short bursts (Spit, Spit). Now place the rag over the nozzle
                            >and shoot a couple of short burst into the rag (Be carefull tilt the brush and
                            >cup up and away from you, have the surface covered by about a foot or so) The
                            >thinner/cleaner will back spray through the color cup syphon tube and out of the
                            >cup if clean. (And on you if you haven't tilted it) If almost clean it will
                            >bubble, if dirty nothing denada; And that's back pressuring the gun or airbrush.
                            >
                            > Http://groupsyahoo.com/groups/OSCALEMODELERS.com go to photos section look for
                            >Air Brush Cleaning by:LLeeblues. There you will find some pictures I up-loaded
                            >for a friend, they may help they may not.
                            >
                            > John please feel free to ask me anything about painting. I do not know it all
                            >but I know some and what I don't I will find out.
                            >
                            >
                            > Might I suggest "Get thee to thy computer and look up how paint is made. That's
                            >one of the difference between Scale coat and Sherwin Williams is how fine the
                            >pigment is ground. That's why you can see the detials with Scale Coat or
                            >Floquil.
                            >
                            > Best Regards,
                            > Leonard "Lee" Davis
                            >Hello again Leonard
                            Thanks again for all your advice and help to my never ending questions, I have
                            tried quite a number of times to access the website www.passcheairbrush.com to
                            buy the books you mention and for some reason I still cannot access the specific
                            site you mention Leonard, it keeps referring me to a website with a similar but
                            not exactly the same name/spelling as the one you reccomend. I have also tried
                            Amazon for the books again with no success, and also a very well known
                            bookseller chain of shops here in the UK. with no success.
                            If possible Leonard can you supply me with information re the publisher,
                            authors, ISBN No, which may help me track them down via Amazon or if you know of
                            a different supplier on the web who may supply the books.
                            Sorry to ask you more questions Leonard hope you dont mind me taking up your
                            time again.
                            Thanks all the best,John.

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