That was the method I tried to use - I've done several locos before, y'know.
However, you haven't read my original message carefully, have you?
This loco kit is NOT brass, that one can work easily, this one is 20thou nickel silver and the boiler/firebox unit is full thickness all over (ie no half etching). THAT is why it is awkward to get right, not my incompetence!
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Brian Millar" <rallim56@...> wrote:
> If ever there is a 'next time' try a piece of rod slightly smaller then the
> ID of the boiler once its together, you need the rod to be long enough to
> clamp one end in your vice, and sufficient length protruding slightly longer
> then the boiler, now using your thumb and index fingers on both hands work
> the brass a little bit at a time all the way around and progressively roll
> the brass until the ends meet, keep checking to ensure the end shape is
> round and not oblong, once this is done you can place in the formers, and
> try using a gas torch for soldering, you'll find it 100 times better, with
> instant heat and the solder with run all the way around, giving you the
> neatest solder joint you have ever seen.
> Brian Millar
> Qld. Aust.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "adriangrayfr" <adrian@...>
> To: <email@example.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 6:41 AM
> Subject: Re: [7mm NGA] Dorset Kits W&L loco
> > I'm sorry, I should have said.....when using the Mole grips, which will
> > provide a significant thermal sink, I had the advantage of a Resistance
> > Soldering Unit.
> > Had I thought to anneal the boiler I wouldn't have needed the Mole grips
> > and would have carried on working with my 25W Weller soldering iron.....
> > "RSU", "lathe", "milling machine", "drill press"(=vertical drill),
> > "airbrush" and "in the usual fashion" must be amongst the most irritating
> > phrases used by a modeller when describing their method to another!!!!
> > :)
> > Adrian
> > --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "adriangrayfr" <adrian@> wrote:
> >> David,
> >> It is an interesting suggestion, though I think Frank may have a point
> >> when he suggests thermal expansion.
> >> I would only have jubilee clips for specific purposes, bought to order,
> >> as it were, whereas my Mole grips are an essential part of my DIY (and
> >> now modelling) tool kit! I have mini, midi and maxi Mole grips, the
> >> former bought for modelling - they hold little etched bits and the like
> >> far more securely than pliers when filing - and the other two for DIY
> >> around the home - but NOTHING in my armoury of tools is ever devoted
> >> excusively to little or large!!
> >> Had I been working with brass I might have used soft iron wire, as Paul
> >> suggested, unfortunately 20thouNS is a bit too butch!!
> >> :-)
> >> Adrian
> >> --- In email@example.com, "Taylor, David" <DLTaylor@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Hi Adrian,
> >> >
> >> > You could try Jubilee Clips to hold the boiler to correct diameter for
> >> > soldering.
> >> > Probably called something else nowadays, Jubilee Clips are a steel band
> >> > that you tighten with a screwdriver, a bit like a wormgear. Usually
> >> > sold for car radiator hoses.
> >> > As long as you tighten it against a former, the boiler shouldnt
> >> > distort. And the screwing action can give quite fine adjustment.
> >> >
> >> > I commend it to the house.
> >> >
> >> > Dave.T
> >> >
> >> > ________________________________________
> >> > From: firstname.lastname@example.org [email@example.com] On Behalf Of
> >> > adriangrayfr [adrian@]
> >> > Sent: 04 October 2009 17:49
> >> > To: firstname.lastname@example.org
> >> > Subject: Re: [7mm NGA] Dorset Kits W&L loco
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Though the boiler comes ready rolled it is NOT to the complete profile
> >> > and I found getting it into shape was quite 'challenging' as it is
> >> > full-thickness metal. I needed three hands to hold the boiler and
> >> > formers and a fourth to wield the soldering iron to tack it all up. In
> >> > the end I used some Mole grips as a 'circular vice' but it didn't go
> >> > perfectly.
> >> > If I were doing the job again I would slightly anneal the
> >> > boiler/firebox to make it easier to work with. The metal is plenty
> >> > thick enough to hold its shape once the unit is assembled.
> >> >
> > ------------------------------------
> > This group is:
> > 1 - for people interested in modelling narrow gauge railways in 7mm:1ft
> > scale or thereabouts
> > 2 - not restricted to members of the 7mm Narrow Gauge Association although
> > membership of said organisation is thoroughly recommended
> > 3 - moderated by current serving members of the 7mm Narrow Gauge
> > Association committeeYahoo! Groups Links
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