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17094Re: [7mm NGA] Brass handrails

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  • rhbbob
    Aug 23 7:24 AM
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      Nothing like a good memory, Frank !

      It's still available albeit in quantities of 300 or 600 grams. Having searched t'internet, the RMWeb came up with a current discussion on DAS and a comment (by Allan Downes, no less) that DAS - our modern modelling clay -, is basically the same.

      I shall ask the question of them.

      Many thanks !
      Bob

      --- In 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com, Frank Hodsman <fghodsman@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hi everyone, I've been followng the handrail saga and from the dim past (about
      > 40 years ago). I remember an article about a chap making ornate balconies
      > for a free lance bogie coach. He made a master balcony end and impressed it
      > onto a layer of Pyruma? fireback cement, allowed it to harden and removed the
      > master.
      > The indentations in the cement formed a jig to securely hold the next set of
      > build parts as he then asembled further balconies by using liquid solder and a
      > blow torch.
      > Hope the above is helpful,
      >
      > Frank Hodsman
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > > On 23 August 2013 at 12:14 rhbbob <surava@...> wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Thank you, Rod
      > >
      > > I shall move the completed piece to the solder mat and try your hint!
      > >
      > > I have a small butane blow-torch which I struggle to keep alight but that is
      > > probably me rather than the tool!!
      > >
      > > Kind regards
      > > Bob
      > >
      > > --- In 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com <mailto:7mmnga%40yahoogroups.com> , Rod
      > > Hutchinson <rodhutchy@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Hi Bob,
      > > >
      > > > Are you using resin core solder?
      > > > If so I would consider using very small amounts of solder paste. Paint it
      > > > on and perhaps heat with a small butane flame. It should provide finer
      > > > soldering.
      > > > Never the less, your work is quite impressive.
      > > >
      > > > Rod Hutchinson
      > > > Australia
      > > > On Aug 23, 2013 5:38 PM, "adriangrayfr" <adrian@>
      > > > wrote:
      > > >
      > > > > **
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > Howard,
      > > > > Have you looked at the photos that were posted?
      > > > > Although I agree with some of what you suggest I think you are assuming
      > > > > loco handrails, whereas Bob is building what look like the rails for a
      > > > > carriage end balcony.
      > > > >
      > > > > Bob,
      > > > > If you want to stop your joints looking quite so bulky you _could_ put a
      > > > > modest nick into each piece of wire where they cross, use a fine swiss
      > > > > file
      > > > > with a rounded edge, gently, to creatre a 'half lap joint' (to use my old
      > > > > woodworking teacher's terminology). Then you'll greatly reduce the three
      > > > > dimensional effect that, I suspect, is not apparent on the real things
      > > > > which were probalby welded or used cast joining tees or crosses and lots
      > > > > of
      > > > > small bit of tube.
      > > > >
      > > > > I wonder what sort of solder you used. For work like this I like to use
      > > > > 145 degree melting solder. I find I can use a lot less and keep joints
      > > > > tidy
      > > > > as one doesn't need to dwell with the iron so long to get the brass up to
      > > > > temperature to 'take' the solder as one does if using 'normal' 188 degree
      > > > > solder.
      > > > >
      > > > > Just some thoughts. For a first time I think you've done very well to get
      > > > > such an even result.
      > > > >
      > > > > Keep trying, soldering is a LOT easier than many people would have you
      > > > > believe. somewhere back in the list of messaages on this Group is a
      > > > > wonderfully written and very helpful exposition on the subject by Paul
      > > > > Martin, well worth taking the time to trawl back and read carefully. If
      > > > > Paul Martin doesn't search, try ngtrains.
      > > > >
      > > > > Cheers
      > > > >
      > > > > Adrian
      > > > >
      > > > > --- In 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com <mailto:7mmnga%40yahoogroups.com> , "Howard
      > > > > Clarke" <carrage32@> wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Hi Bob
      > > > > > Handrails - I use Premier Models (Bill Connell) brass handrails knobs,
      > > > > come short; medium and long.
      > > > > > For wire if your handrails are straight I use steel piano wire, far
      > > > > better than brass as it does not get bent with handling.
      > > > > > For brass wire I get mine from Eileens emporium 0.6mm - 1mm wire rather
      > > > > thick.
      > > > > > All available at GOG Telford 7/8 September.
      > > > > > See you there
      > > > > > Howard Clarke 215
      > > > > > ----- Original Message -----
      > > > > > From: rhbbob
      > > > > > To: 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com <mailto:7mmnga%40yahoogroups.com>
      > > > > > Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 5:02 PM
      > > > > > Subject: [7mm NGA] Brass handrails
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > > I have just added my first picture in an album called RhB Bob. After
      > > > > years of coping with plastic handrails of varying quality and strength I
      > > > > decided to take the plunge and see what I could do.....yes, the brass is
      > > > > fairly thick at 1 mm and the two items shown bear little resemblance to
      > > > > each other in dimensions !
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Any advice,thoughts, suggestions,laughter or abuse on such things as
      > > > > > jig
      > > > > creation can be shared here.......
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Bob
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
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