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FYI on new HF Machines

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  • Paul
    I just returned the second HF 4x6 that I considered defective. I spent a day each assembling and trying to adjust each of the machines. Using manuals from
    Message 1 of 3 , Mar 1, 2011
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      I just returned the second HF 4x6 that I considered defective. I spent a day each assembling and trying to adjust each of the machines. Using manuals from other manufactures and having contacted HF tech support a number of times I was not able to make either of them work properly. I utilized most of the ideas in the "Basic blade adjustment and tracking - rev-1.pdf" that did not solve the main problem of the lower drive wheel being too far back in the housing. (I think the shaft or configuration is too short on these machines).

      From the factory, blade tracking was almost half the distance from the back of the wheel on the lower "Drive" wheel. Additionally, the rollers on the black of the blade were adjusted with enough pressure to force the blade forward about 1/4 inch. (not just touching) if these rollers were adjusted properly the blade would not cut through any material. If the adjustment bolt for cut depth was adjusted down the side rollers would contact the top of the bed and the blade would still not completely through. Also, anything over the lightest blade tension would cause the blade to come off while attempting a cut. If I would have moved the top adjustment pulley back on the shaft to improve the tracking it would only have increased the problem of not cutting through the material. On the second machine the only way I was able to affect close to proper recommended adjustment and any amount of blade tension was to remove the snap ring from the lower drive wheel and pull the wheel out on the shaft. This worked to some extent but the machine had other problems with alignment and adjustments necessary for square cuts.

      So, beware of the current batch of HF machines.

      I purchased a Jet model and also after a few adjustment issues it works perfectly. It costs a considerable amount more but for me it's a much better machine. The manual is also a lot better.
    • Ed
      I swear it must depend on what day of the week they make them. After reading this group I was prepared to remachine the saw. But to get rather good performance
      Message 2 of 3 , Mar 1, 2011
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        I swear it must depend on what day of the week they make them. After reading this group I was prepared to remachine the saw. But to get rather good performance so far it has taken:

        - Better stand (makes fiddling with adjustments more stable too).
        - Tracking and alignment (just adjusting).
        - Blade tension (used a cheesy caliper clamped to blade approach).
        - Hydraulic down feed mechanism (much more linear and smooth feed).
        - A high quality blade.

        I think I got lucky and they built mine on Wednesday...

        Ed

        --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <phowell_7@...> wrote:
        >> From the factory, blade tracking was almost half the distance from the back of the wheel on the lower "Drive" wheel. Additionally, the rollers on the black of the blade were adjusted with enough pressure to force the blade forward about 1/4 inch. (not just touching) if these rollers were adjusted properly the blade would not cut through any material. If the adjustment bolt for cut depth was adjusted down the side rollers would contact the top of the bed and the blade would still not completely through. Also, anything over the lightest blade tension would cause the blade to come off while attempting a cut. If I would >
        > So, beware of the current batch of HF machines.
        >
        > I purchased a Jet model and also after a few adjustment issues it works perfectly. It costs a considerable amount more but for me it's a much better machine. The manual is also a lot better.
        >
      • theotherchris42
        I had a similar problem with my HF saw. I had to shim the tracking adjustment (with a razor blade) to get enough adjustment to get the blade to track on the
        Message 3 of 3 , Mar 6, 2011
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          I had a similar problem with my HF saw.
          I had to shim the tracking adjustment (with a razor blade) to get enough adjustment to get the blade to track on the wheel properly.
          Since the blade was square and plumb, I decided to keep at it to get the rest of the machine to work acceptably. The arm and blade of the saw would not come down all the way to allow a complete cut of the work piece.
          Further inspection showed that the metal around the guide bearings was contacting the base. I ground off the offending base area and then found that there was also interference at the switch. I ground that area as well.
          Pics of these areas are in my album (TheOtherChris)
          http://groups.yahoo.com/group/4x6bandsaw/photos/album/1386399980/pic/list?mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

          The vise pieces were not flat (warped, so I clamped them in the mill and machined them flat.

          Now I am reasonably happy with its performance, but plan to weld up a stiffer stand, add hydraulic down feed and probably a coolant nozzle.

          For the price of my saw "Kit", I am still happy with the purchase.

          TheOtherChris
          *************************

          --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <phowell_7@...> wrote:
          >
          > I just returned the second HF 4x6 that I considered defective. I spent a day each assembling and trying to adjust each of the machines. Using manuals from other manufactures and having contacted HF tech support a number of times I was not able to make either of them work properly. I utilized most of the ideas in the "Basic blade adjustment and tracking - rev-1.pdf" that did not solve the main problem of the lower drive wheel being too far back in the housing. (I think the shaft or configuration is too short on these machines).
          >
          > From the factory, blade tracking was almost half the distance from the back of the wheel on the lower "Drive" wheel. Additionally, the rollers on the black of the blade were adjusted with enough pressure to force the blade forward about 1/4 inch. (not just touching) if these rollers were adjusted properly the blade would not cut through any material. If the adjustment bolt for cut depth was adjusted down the side rollers would contact the top of the bed and the blade would still not completely through. Also, anything over the lightest blade tension would cause the blade to come off while attempting a cut. If I would have moved the top adjustment pulley back on the shaft to improve the tracking it would only have increased the problem of not cutting through the material. On the second machine the only way I was able to affect close to proper recommended adjustment and any amount of blade tension was to remove the snap ring from the lower drive wheel and pull the wheel out on the shaft. This worked to some extent but the machine had other problems with alignment and adjustments necessary for square cuts.
          >
          > So, beware of the current batch of HF machines.
          >
          > I purchased a Jet model and also after a few adjustment issues it works perfectly. It costs a considerable amount more but for me it's a much better machine. The manual is also a lot better.
          >
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