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Re: Can I use a 1/4" wide blade on my 4x6 HF bandsaw? Maybe yes?

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  • Alys & John Vreede
    Hi Bill Jerrys right about flattening the set with the standard setup, but if you were prepared to fiddle a bit it might be possible. The problem is the width
    Message 1 of 4 , Jul 20, 2013
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      Hi Bill

      Jerrys right about flattening the set with the standard setup, but if you were prepared to fiddle a bit it might be possible.

      The problem is the width of the rollers (which are just cheap replaceable ball bearings)

      The easiest scheme I could come up with was to grind the outer of the bearing to a suitable width and depth to clear the set on the teeth.

      The worst case would be a coarse pitch blade, as they have the more set than fine(don’t know about wavy set blades)

      I just measured a 6tpi blade and its 44 thou across the teeth and 25 thou across the back which means the teeth stick out about 10thou either side of the blade

      This is the amount you’d have to grind off the bearings outer casing and they are way thick enough for you to do that.

      You’d need a bit more off the inside rollers (say 15 thou) and less off the outside because the blade doesn’t go between them upright, but canted over due to the 5-7thou clearance you should be running.

      In fact you would only need to grind the top and bottom inside rollers anyway if you made the blade to roller clearance 10thou (bit more than normal but probably ok for the duty)

      Measure up the ¼ “ blade you want to use to calculate the actual amount you have to take off and clearance you need

      If you were prepared to do it rough and dirty, you could use an angle grinder with a nice thin cutting wheel, preferably worn to small diameter which will make it easier to control. 

      Use an old sawblade running at reduced tension to drive the rollers, and grind the relief on the outers in place.

      Wheel the saw to someplace where there is something to rest your hand on to help guide the grinder

      Just measure the diameter of the bearing with a micrometer or good digital/Vernier calipers as you go, until you’ve got 30 thou under the original diameter at the width where the tips of the blade will be running.

      Down side is you have to change and re-set the inside guide rollers each time but that might be worth it for the added versatility.

      Be careful - jv

       

      From: 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com [mailto:4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BillC
      Sent: Sunday, 21 July 2013 6:08 a.m.
      To: 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Can I use a 1/4" wide blade on my 4x6 HF bandsaw?

       

       


      Thanks Jerry, that takes care of my "bright" idea!

      --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
      >
      > You'll flatten the set of the teeth on one side of the blade. Regular
      > wood-type saws have rubber tires on the wheels so the teeth don't get
      > flattened, all we have are steel wheels.
      >
      > On 07/20/2013 10:47 AM, BillC wrote:
      > > Guys,
      > >
      > > I want to run my HF bandsaw vertically, and would also like to make tighter radius cuts on aluminum, so I thought about going with a 1/4" wide blade. Can I do this without damaging my bandsaw, or running into other problems?
      > >
      > > Thanks!
      > >
      > > -Bill
      > >
      >
      > --
      > Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
      > tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
      > Skype: jerrydurand
      >

    • Richard Marchi
      The notion that our band saws need plain steel wheels is not correct. I ve operated several big Do-All metal saws that had rubber or urethane tires on their
      Message 2 of 4 , Jul 21, 2013
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        The notion that our band saws need plain steel wheels is not correct. I've operated several big Do-All metal saws that had rubber or urethane tires on their wheels, just like wood saws. It is true that the metal chip gets imbedded in the tires, but those saws have blade brushes to help minimize the problem. There are urethane tires available on line at reasonable prices.

        The slight offset due to the larger diameter of the wheels with a tire installed might be within the adjustment range of the eccentrics of the blade guides. The biggest problem is that the guides on our cheap saws are not adjustable for blade width. It might be possible to turn a sleeve for the guides so that the tooth set on a 1/4" blade is held clear of the guide, but like the other idea of grinding the guides to provide tooth relief, it would be a PITA to keep changing out guides or installing sleeves each time you wanted to change blades. The solution I've thought about is to rebuild the guide holders to add an adjustment for blade width, like the guide holders on my wood saw.

        That project is on the "to do" list, along with building a blade welder/annealer.

        Good luck.


        Richard Marchi
        600 Water Street, SW
        NBU 8-2
        Gangplank Marina Slip H-22
        Washington, DC 20024
      • John
        I have a 14 home-made band saw set up for both wood and steel. I use rubber tires cut from innertube. They are NOT glued, just streched on. (I used big-truck
        Message 3 of 4 , Jul 23, 2013
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          I have a 14" home-made band saw set up for both wood and steel. I use rubber tires cut from innertube. They are NOT glued, just streched on. (I used big-truck tubes.)

          With narow blades it is easy to strip the set of the blade in the guides. The grinding of a clearance groove in the guide sounds like the best idea.
        • Jeremy Winder
          John, Do you have pictures of your band saw someplace? I m very curious... Thank you, Jeremy
          Message 4 of 4 , Jul 23, 2013
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            John,

            Do you have pictures of your band saw someplace? I'm very curious...

            Thank you,

            Jeremy

            On Tue, Jul 23, 2013 at 3:18 PM, John <forgerii@...> wrote:
             

            I have a 14" home-made band saw set up for both wood and steel. I use rubber tires cut from innertube. They are NOT glued, just streched on. (I used big-truck tubes.)

            With narow blades it is easy to strip the set of the blade in the guides. The grinding of a clearance groove in the guide sounds like the best idea.


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