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Re: [4x6bandsaw] Duracraft BS

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  • philr_77378
    Might try this place.  http://bearingsdirect.com    I ve ordered from them before (not affiliated).  One thing I notice is they offer USPS as a shipping
    Message 1 of 13 , Mar 22, 2013
      Might try this place.  http://bearingsdirect.com    I've ordered from them before (not affiliated).  One thing I notice is they offer USPS as a shipping option, which saves a lot if you are buying a small amount.   It's easy to spend as much or more than your order in UPS shipping charges when you order from Mcmaster, unless you are ordering something from them anyway, and it's coming from the same shipping point.  McMaster and MSC are used to shipping  business orders, who often don't care.  
      Phil R


      From: rickc6464 <rickc@...>
      To: 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 6:21 PM
      Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Duracraft BS

       
      Hello, I'm new here and just picked up a Duracraft BS. It's in fair shape, for as old as it is. ??
      Made in Taiwan, and all the fasteners I've messed with are SAE, were older equipment made to US spec? Or have they been changed out. I talking even the tapped holes in the castings.
      The motor is a Duracraft, made by Doerr Electric, as far as I know, that name changed in 1977 to Leeson. Any contradictions?
      On another site, the suggestion to replace the blade guide bearings was to go to Grizzly. Griz uses one bearing along the side of the blade and the same on the back. Mine are two different bearings.
      NAPA was not much help at 15 bucks a bearing, and only had one in the book, not both, could special order the one.
      HEP, please.



    • Alys & John Vreede
      Hi Rick Older Taiwanese saw like yours and mine have SAE threaded fasteners with metric heads , i.e. ¼” Sae threaded bolt you undo with a 6mm spanner.
      Message 2 of 13 , Mar 22, 2013

        Hi Rick

        Older Taiwanese saw like yours and mine have SAE threaded fasteners with metric heads , i.e. ¼” Sae threaded bolt you undo with a 6mm spanner. Haven’t ever been able to figure the advantage. The other way round might make sense if you had a metric factory supplying into the US but not SAE threads and metric heads.  My lathe has them too.

        My guide bearing are 2 different sizes like yours, 30mmODx 10mmIDx 9mm wide for the side bearings and 22x8x7 for the rear one. A Taiwanese saw will have metric bearings.

        Take your old bearings to any reputable bearing supplier and they should be able to match any bearing in the saw for about $3-4 ea, no bearing in them is special.

        Measure the outside diameter, inside diameter and width of the bearing and get ones to match so long as they also have rubber seals (normally black or red-brown) on both sides - will have 2RS somewhere in the description (2RS=2 rubber seals).  Bearings that have metal shields (ZZ in the description) are not as good as one with rubber seals at keeping grit and swarf out, and you can’t use open ones (well you can but they’ll fail real quick)

        Hope this helps - jv

         

        From: 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com [mailto:4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rickc6464
        Sent: Saturday, 23 March 2013 12:22 p.m.
        To: 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Duracraft BS

         

         

        Hello, I'm new here and just picked up a Duracraft BS. It's in fair shape, for as old as it is. ??
        Made in Taiwan, and all the fasteners I've messed with are SAE, were older equipment made to US spec? Or have they been changed out. I talking even the tapped holes in the castings.
        The motor is a Duracraft, made by Doerr Electric, as far as I know, that name changed in 1977 to Leeson. Any contradictions?
        On another site, the suggestion to replace the blade guide bearings was to go to Grizzly. Griz uses one bearing along the side of the blade and the same on the back. Mine are two different bearings.
        NAPA was not much help at 15 bucks a bearing, and only had one in the book, not both, could special order the one.
        HEP, please.


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      • jworman
        ... If memory serves me, Duracraft was a brand sold by Montgomery Wards. If so, I have one I bought new from them many years ago. It has been a fine worker.
        Message 3 of 13 , Mar 23, 2013
          --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "rickc6464" <rickc@...> wrote:
          >
          > Hello, I'm new here and just picked up a Duracraft BS. It's in fair shape, for as old as it is. ??
          > Made in Taiwan, and all the fasteners I've messed with are SAE, were older equipment made to US spec? Or have they been changed out. I talking even the tapped holes in the castings.
          > The motor is a Duracraft, made by Doerr Electric, as far as I know, that name changed in 1977 to Leeson. Any contradictions?
          > On another site, the suggestion to replace the blade guide bearings was to go to Grizzly. Griz uses one bearing along the side of the blade and the same on the back. Mine are two different bearings.
          > NAPA was not much help at 15 bucks a bearing, and only had one in the book, not both, could special order the one.
          > HEP, please.
          >
          If memory serves me, Duracraft was a brand sold by Montgomery Wards. If so, I have one I bought new from them many years ago. It has been a fine worker.

          My saw doesn't have a blade backup bearing. It has two bearings on the moveable arm, and two bearings below the table. Each set of bearing has one with a flange for the blade backup, and one that is a cylinder for support.

          I was a bit disappointed when I saw this setup, but I've cut a lot of metal and the blade stays where it belongs. So far, the flange has held up. I'll admit I'm a bit surprised.
        • rickc6464
          Thanks for all the ideas, did do a quick look at McMaster s, didn t find the right combination, (id, od, length)...but it was a quick look. I ll have more
          Message 4 of 13 , Mar 24, 2013
            Thanks for all the ideas, did do a quick look at McMaster's, didn't find the right combination, (id, od, length)...but it was a quick look. I'll have more time after Tuesday, thanks again

            --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "Carl Hollopeter" <chollo@...> wrote:
            >
            > Rick,
            > There are several sources for bearings,(www.mcmastercarr.com ) has a good supply at reasonable prices, normally next or second day delivery.
            > Carl H
            >
            > From: rickc6464
            > Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 6:21 PM
            > To: 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com
            > Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Duracraft BS
            >
            >
            > Hello, I'm new here and just picked up a Duracraft BS. It's in fair shape, for as old as it is. ??
            > Made in Taiwan, and all the fasteners I've messed with are SAE, were older equipment made to US spec? Or have they been changed out. I talking even the tapped holes in the castings.
            > The motor is a Duracraft, made by Doerr Electric, as far as I know, that name changed in 1977 to Leeson. Any contradictions?
            > On another site, the suggestion to replace the blade guide bearings was to go to Grizzly. Griz uses one bearing along the side of the blade and the same on the back. Mine are two different bearings.
            > NAPA was not much help at 15 bucks a bearing, and only had one in the book, not both, could special order the one.
            > HEP, please.
            >
          • cannontandem
            What are the dimensions of the two bearings? Paul M
            Message 5 of 13 , Mar 25, 2013
              What are the dimensions of the two bearings? Paul M

              --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "rickc6464" <rickc@...> wrote:
              >
              > Hello, I'm new here and just picked up a Duracraft BS. It's in fair shape, for as old as it is. ??
              > Made in Taiwan, and all the fasteners I've messed with are SAE, were older equipment made to US spec? Or have they been changed out. I talking even the tapped holes in the castings.
              > The motor is a Duracraft, made by Doerr Electric, as far as I know, that name changed in 1977 to Leeson. Any contradictions?
              > On another site, the suggestion to replace the blade guide bearings was to go to Grizzly. Griz uses one bearing along the side of the blade and the same on the back. Mine are two different bearings.
              > NAPA was not much help at 15 bucks a bearing, and only had one in the book, not both, could special order the one.
              > HEP, please.
              >
            • rickc6464
              Did get the bearing for the back of the blade, but side bearings still a work in progress. Went to an auto electric repair, no go. Bearing in question; needle
              Message 6 of 13 , Mar 28, 2013
                Did get the bearing for the back of the blade, but side bearings still a work in progress. Went to an auto electric repair, no go.
                Bearing in question; needle bearing, OD .865, (22mm) ID/shaft dia. .471 (12mm), OAL .470. There is a small counter bore each end, & a spacer goes in one end, head of "shoulder bolt" fits into the other end. I assume these ride on the inner race of bearing.
                Thanks

                --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "cannontandem" <cannontandem@...> wrote:
                >
                > What are the dimensions of the two bearings? Paul M
                >
                > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "rickc6464" <rickc@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Hello, I'm new here and just picked up a Duracraft BS. It's in fair shape, for as old as it is. ??
                > > Made in Taiwan, and all the fasteners I've messed with are SAE, were older equipment made to US spec? Or have they been changed out. I talking even the tapped holes in the castings.
                > > The motor is a Duracraft, made by Doerr Electric, as far as I know, that name changed in 1977 to Leeson. Any contradictions?
                > > On another site, the suggestion to replace the blade guide bearings was to go to Grizzly. Griz uses one bearing along the side of the blade and the same on the back. Mine are two different bearings.
                > > NAPA was not much help at 15 bucks a bearing, and only had one in the book, not both, could special order the one.
                > > HEP, please.
                > >
                >
              • cannontandem
                On needle bearing, as I understand them, the needles are in direct contact with the shaft. If this is true, how can you have counter bores each end?
                Message 7 of 13 , Mar 29, 2013
                  On needle bearing, as I understand them, the needles are in direct contact with the shaft. If this is true, how can you have counter bores each end?

                  --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "rickc6464" <rickc@...> wrote:
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Did get the bearing for the back of the blade, but side bearings still a work in progress. Went to an auto electric repair, no go.
                  > Bearing in question; needle bearing, OD .865, (22mm) ID/shaft dia. .471 (12mm), OAL .470. There is a small counter bore each end, & a spacer goes in one end, head of "shoulder bolt" fits into the other end. I assume these ride on the inner race of bearing.
                  > Thanks
                  >
                  > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "cannontandem" <cannontandem@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > What are the dimensions of the two bearings? Paul M
                  > >
                  > > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "rickc6464" <rickc@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > > Hello, I'm new here and just picked up a Duracraft BS. It's in fair shape, for as old as it is. ??
                  > > > Made in Taiwan, and all the fasteners I've messed with are SAE, were older equipment made to US spec? Or have they been changed out. I talking even the tapped holes in the castings.
                  > > > The motor is a Duracraft, made by Doerr Electric, as far as I know, that name changed in 1977 to Leeson. Any contradictions?
                  > > > On another site, the suggestion to replace the blade guide bearings was to go to Grizzly. Griz uses one bearing along the side of the blade and the same on the back. Mine are two different bearings.
                  > > > NAPA was not much help at 15 bucks a bearing, and only had one in the book, not both, could special order the one.
                  > > > HEP, please.
                  > > >
                  > >
                  >
                • cannontandem
                  I saw a 22mm O.D. x 12mm wide needle bearing for a 16mm shaft. http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit8625 or
                  Message 8 of 13 , Mar 29, 2013
                    I saw a 22mm O.D. x 12mm wide needle bearing for a 16mm shaft.
                    http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit8625 or
                    http://www.mcmaster.com/#drawn-cup-roller-bearings/=m3c5hh
                    Could you make a 16mm sleeve that can be hardened that would fit the bill? Paul M

                    --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "cannontandem" <cannontandem@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > On needle bearing, as I understand them, the needles are in direct contact with the shaft. If this is true, how can you have counter bores each end?
                    >
                    > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "rickc6464" <rickc@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > Did get the bearing for the back of the blade, but side bearings still a work in progress. Went to an auto electric repair, no go.
                    > > Bearing in question; needle bearing, OD .865, (22mm) ID/shaft dia. .471 (12mm), OAL .470. There is a small counter bore each end, & a spacer goes in one end, head of "shoulder bolt" fits into the other end. I assume these ride on the inner race of bearing.
                    > > Thanks
                    > >
                    > > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "cannontandem" <cannontandem@> wrote:
                    > > >
                    > > > What are the dimensions of the two bearings? Paul M
                    > > >
                    > > > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "rickc6464" <rickc@> wrote:
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Hello, I'm new here and just picked up a Duracraft BS. It's in fair shape, for as old as it is. ??
                    > > > > Made in Taiwan, and all the fasteners I've messed with are SAE, were older equipment made to US spec? Or have they been changed out. I talking even the tapped holes in the castings.
                    > > > > The motor is a Duracraft, made by Doerr Electric, as far as I know, that name changed in 1977 to Leeson. Any contradictions?
                    > > > > On another site, the suggestion to replace the blade guide bearings was to go to Grizzly. Griz uses one bearing along the side of the blade and the same on the back. Mine are two different bearings.
                    > > > > NAPA was not much help at 15 bucks a bearing, and only had one in the book, not both, could special order the one.
                    > > > > HEP, please.
                    > > > >
                    > > >
                    > >
                    >
                  • rickc6464
                    ... Both c bores are only about .04 deep, a spacer/washer fits in one, the head of the bolt fits into the other end. Bolt head is about .09 thick, just enough
                    Message 9 of 13 , Apr 1, 2013
                      --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "cannontandem" <cannontandem@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > On needle bearing, as I understand them, the needles are in direct contact with the shaft. If this is true, how can you have counter bores each end?

                      Both c'bores are only about .04 deep, a spacer/washer fits in one, the head of the bolt fits into the other end. Bolt head is about .09 thick, just enough for a screwdriver slot to adjust spacing of the bearings. A cage holds the "needles" in place.

                      > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "rickc6464" <rickc@> wrote:
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > Did get the bearing for the back of the blade, but side bearings still a work in progress. Went to an auto electric repair, no go.
                      > > Bearing in question; needle bearing, OD .865, (22mm) ID/shaft dia. .471 (12mm), OAL .470. There is a small counter bore each end, & a spacer goes in one end, head of "shoulder bolt" fits into the other end. I assume these ride on the inner race of bearing.
                      > > Thanks
                      > >
                      > > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "cannontandem" <cannontandem@> wrote:
                      > > >
                      > > > What are the dimensions of the two bearings? Paul M
                      > > >
                      > > > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "rickc6464" <rickc@> wrote:
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Hello, I'm new here and just picked up a Duracraft BS. It's in fair shape, for as old as it is. ??
                      > > > > Made in Taiwan, and all the fasteners I've messed with are SAE, were older equipment made to US spec? Or have they been changed out. I talking even the tapped holes in the castings.
                      > > > > The motor is a Duracraft, made by Doerr Electric, as far as I know, that name changed in 1977 to Leeson. Any contradictions?
                      > > > > On another site, the suggestion to replace the blade guide bearings was to go to Grizzly. Griz uses one bearing along the side of the blade and the same on the back. Mine are two different bearings.
                      > > > > NAPA was not much help at 15 bucks a bearing, and only had one in the book, not both, could special order the one.
                      > > > > HEP, please.
                      > > > >
                      > > >
                      > >
                      >
                    • oldhermit
                      Is there a specialty bearing store in your area? Harold
                      Message 10 of 13 , Apr 2, 2013
                        Is there a specialty bearing store in your area?
                        Harold

                        --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "rickc6464" <rickc@...> wrote:
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > Did get the bearing for the back of the blade, but side bearings still a work in progress. Went to an auto electric repair, no go.
                        > Bearing in question; needle bearing, OD .865, (22mm) ID/shaft dia. .471 (12mm), OAL .470. There is a small counter bore each end, & a spacer goes in one end, head of "shoulder bolt" fits into the other end. I assume these ride on the inner race of bearing.
                        > Thanks
                        >
                        > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "cannontandem" <cannontandem@> wrote:
                        > >
                        > > What are the dimensions of the two bearings? Paul M
                        > >
                        > > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "rickc6464" <rickc@> wrote:
                        > > >
                        > > > Hello, I'm new here and just picked up a Duracraft BS. It's in fair shape, for as old as it is. ??
                        > > > Made in Taiwan, and all the fasteners I've messed with are SAE, were older equipment made to US spec? Or have they been changed out. I talking even the tapped holes in the castings.
                        > > > The motor is a Duracraft, made by Doerr Electric, as far as I know, that name changed in 1977 to Leeson. Any contradictions?
                        > > > On another site, the suggestion to replace the blade guide bearings was to go to Grizzly. Griz uses one bearing along the side of the blade and the same on the back. Mine are two different bearings.
                        > > > NAPA was not much help at 15 bucks a bearing, and only had one in the book, not both, could special order the one.
                        > > > HEP, please.
                        > > >
                        > >
                        >
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